Yamaha DT125R '01 - Running Project
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Can't stress enough value for money on ignition system for these bikes. Radically changes the power.
Looks great man love to hear about the success.
Next improvement I would look at is binning the restrictive 3BN cylinder head for a 3MB. Or have the combustion ring taken out.
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Can't stress enough value for money on ignition system for these bikes. Radically changes the power.
Looks great man love to hear about the success.
Next improvement I would look at is binning the restrictive 3BN cylinder head for a 3MB. Or have the combustion ring taken out.
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I saw some DTX Excels on the ol interweb with tread, and I thought. Now is the time. I'll build a street machine.
I got bored of trying to compile good condition early 90s YZ parts. It was then that I remembered a WR200 Swingarm and Caliper set that I found. Decided to go with it and fit it to my YZ shock.
Started with a proof of concept and fitted it together. Looks good, and the alloy swingarm frees up the rear. Got the weight down to under 110kg. It feels nice. Bust all the 4stroke 125s to pieces and keep up with the Aprilia boys.
Yeah the WR200 swingarm fits rather well. Straight in. I was concerned that the bigger swingarm would hit the reservoir on the shock under compression, but I've got clearance due the ride height. However the linkage frame bolt on my bike has fused absolute into the frame. So Im using the original DT suspension links onto the WR swingarm. Works fine, but using the the DT dog bones (original set), they are too short and basically jack the bike up about 6cm. This and the taller YZ unit make it ridiculous. The problem with this is reducing the steering angle. It's about 19 degrees or so now, and I can imagine, I'm pretty sure this will be a twitchy mess at speed. Lowering after-market links for the DT are stupid money. So I'll make some.
I need to sort out that spacer.
Wound the spring rate right up to compensate, makes the ride a little too plush for the road. It will do for now. Quick note. To adjust the spring rate when fitting this to a DT. There is NO access without removing the Side panels, Seat, Battery tray and Airbox. Ballache.
Next UP. Twin Rads. Because Twin Rads are cool. That and, I've removed the Oil pump and tank, so there is a big useless gap that needs to be filled. Why not unite a Radiator to its spritual home?
Fitted it with a couple of bolts into the OEM threaded tabs on the DT200R Right hand radiator. It's very snug. The plumbing is right up against the tank in situe, With the plumbing hooked up it's a rigid fit, Brackets one day. I did plan to mount the Bigger offside DT200 Rad I've got but I couldn't seat it in there without some fabrication. So now I have two header tanks. Looks strange.
Managed to get the all important DT200R split pipe.
Forgot about the spindle. DT spindle is too long, The WR swinger is narrower and you will need WR spacers and caliper. Quite like the Nissin unit of the WR, think it should give much more bite, and its lighter too. Got the lot pretty cheap.
Onto stuffing the new carb in there.
Using a 1989 Yamaha YZ125 inlet, they are actually for a TM34, 35.36 inlets came later into the early 90s. Which I forgot. So I filed some material away for the PWK36.
It was not going to fit, so I used a spacer template to relocate the fixings onto the Reed block. Also sanded and smoothed the bore of the inlet to match the DT reed block area. No steps or intrusions is a must.
Snug. Using a early 90s KX throttle cable, Running the same carb and Throttle housing as those KXs now. Werid setup.
Had a bit of trouble clearing the frame and shock to fit a Air filter. The Ram Air filter tucks into the air box a little, keeps some chain crap of it. Never going to be any good in the wet.
Had a screw head that was completely chewed. Don't be a clot. I'll never use it again.
Was not sure what to do with a caliper set up. Looked at TZRR units, TDR, XT and even a Cagiva Mito brembo. Nearly bought a Yamaha YZ Nissin unit, which would of probably been a better performer, Settled on a YZF125 caliper because its the same unit on the DTX. Cheap, and gold..ish should be alright.
Made a template out of wood to hang it.
Got some old, and very soft 6mm Aluminium and made the bracket by hand,
Cut some 15mm spacers to hang the caliper.
I didn't check the specific CDI on it, Mines a (3RM-20).. Bugger. went ahead and ordered a 3RM-00 CDI, for a loom which is slightly different and uses different connectors, So its got to go back to Ignitech and be sorted. My fault. So I cant play with the Ignitech for a while.
Damn. Postage isn't too bad. 8euro to sort.
Once that lot is in, think its prime time to sort out that old 3MB00 P barrel.
There is a bit of surface rust in there, but it is in reasonable condition. It looks like the piston seized in there a long time ago. Needs a re-bore.
@Darty said:
Yeah the WR200 swingarm fits rather well. Straight in. I was concerned that the bigger swingarm would hit the reservoir on the shock under compression, but I've got clearance due the ride height. However the linkage frame bolt on my bike has fused absolute into the frame. So Im using the original DT suspension links onto the WR swingarm. Works fine, but using the the DT dog bones (original set), they are too short and basically jack the bike up about 6cm. This and the taller YZ unit make it ridiculous. The problem with this is reducing the steering angle. It's about 19 degrees or so now, and I can imagine, I'm pretty sure this will be a twitchy mess at speed. Lowering after-market links for the DT are stupid money. So I'll make some.
Did you make some dog-bones dude? I have some Lush racing -50mm ones going if you need them? I fitted them but never rode the bike, as I didn't like the feel of it, so I managed to get some stock ones instead. There brand new really and they wouldn't take em back, so If you want them we could do a deal for-sure!!! ;O)
SEDUCED BY THE DARK SIDE!!!
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@Darty said:
Yeah the WR200 swingarm fits rather well. Straight in. I was concerned that the bigger swingarm would hit the reservoir on the shock under compression, but I've got clearance due the ride height. However the linkage frame bolt on my bike has fused absolute into the frame. So Im using the original DT suspension links onto the WR swingarm. Works fine, but using the the DT dog bones (original set), they are too short and basically jack the bike up about 6cm. This and the taller YZ unit make it ridiculous. The problem with this is reducing the steering angle. It's about 19 degrees or so now, and I can imagine, I'm pretty sure this will be a twitchy mess at speed. Lowering after-market links for the DT are stupid money. So I'll make some.
Did you make some dog-bones dude? I have some Lush racing -50mm ones going if you need them? I fitted them but never rode the bike, as I didn't like the feel of it, so I managed to get some stock ones instead. There brand new really and they wouldn't take em back, so If you want them we could do a deal for-sure!!! ;O)
@CYBER-NINJA I ended up getting some made in various lengths for testing, but Have not put them on yet. I've got FZR 150mm tie bars and they are too long, but thanks for the offer, those Lusty's are nice quality tbf.
Keep it real
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@CYBER-NINJA I ended up getting some made in various lengths for testing, but Have not put them on yet. I've got FZR 150mm tie bars and they are too long, but thanks for the offer, those Lusty's are nice quality tbf.
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@CYBER-NINJA I ended up getting some made in various lengths for testing, but Have not put them on yet. I've got FZR 150mm tie bars and they are too long, but thanks for the offer, those Lusty's are nice quality tbf.
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@Darty What size rims and tyres are you running there dude please? And are they laced to stock hubs too???
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Finally put on my new drop links.. Tie bars.. dog bones.. whatever you like..
Water cut 7mm Stainless steel, I drew the pivots at 15.5mm to compensate for the distortion water cutting creates cutting through, essentially the water jet blasts through creating a slight taper on exit, it's like firing a cone shape rather than a straight beam.
Got a very sharp 16mm drill bit which gives the exact fit you need. Then a sand and polish.
Changed the design a little and went for a continuous sweep, got to love CAD ay.
I went for 130mm versions instead and it now sits perfectly, she's niiiice and sharp now and handles pretty bloody well for a DT.
The rear does look ridiculous.. hot rod stance not to my liking. Those portugal rear mudguards are a wacky fit on the tabs, need something else YZ to chop up.
ASV clutch lever was a score, and it's lush to use..after a thorough grit removal rebuild. far superior than my 'eBay special' perch on before. But I had to move the switch gear over for clearance, and just cannot stop fumbling because it's out of reach to my thumb. I'm always having to look at it first.. lol seriously this does get at me, but clutch is more important in this case.
The best thing is that I can still fit my DT handguards on, Thank you ASV, much obliged. Those guard threads are a god send.
Because Race bike. But no seriously don't mess with the Airbox on a DT. It's perfect as standard. I've opened up the side and top to a 'maximum' I reckon. Remember you need to control the flow of air for good induction,
I've just been messing around and after many shitty test rides and a million jets and needle adjustments it's running sweet. And it sounds like it should, all in vain for increased throttle response and overrev, not such a daily driver anymore though.
The rest is an embarrassment, rust is taking over, a bit of Hydrate 80 rust prevention and a bit of black spray just to stop it disintegrating away. Always a great play bike if it's already battered.
Bring on the summer,
Keep it real
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Finally put on my new drop links.. Tie bars.. dog bones.. whatever you like..
Water cut 7mm Stainless steel, I drew the pivots at 15.5mm to compensate for the distortion water cutting creates cutting through, essentially the water jet blasts through creating a slight taper on exit, it's like firing a cone shape rather than a straight beam.
Got a very sharp 16mm drill bit which gives the exact fit you need. Then a sand and polish.
Changed the design a little and went for a continuous sweep, got to love CAD ay.
I went for 130mm versions instead and it now sits perfectly, she's niiiice and sharp now and handles pretty bloody well for a DT.
The rear does look ridiculous.. hot rod stance not to my liking. Those portugal rear mudguards are a wacky fit on the tabs, need something else YZ to chop up.
ASV clutch lever was a score, and it's lush to use..after a thorough grit removal rebuild. far superior than my 'eBay special' perch on before. But I had to move the switch gear over for clearance, and just cannot stop fumbling because it's out of reach to my thumb. I'm always having to look at it first.. lol seriously this does get at me, but clutch is more important in this case.
The best thing is that I can still fit my DT handguards on, Thank you ASV, much obliged. Those guard threads are a god send.
Because Race bike. But no seriously don't mess with the Airbox on a DT. It's perfect as standard. I've opened up the side and top to a 'maximum' I reckon. Remember you need to control the flow of air for good induction,
I've just been messing around and after many shitty test rides and a million jets and needle adjustments it's running sweet. And it sounds like it should, all in vain for increased throttle response and overrev, not such a daily driver anymore though.
The rest is an embarrassment, rust is taking over, a bit of Hydrate 80 rust prevention and a bit of black spray just to stop it disintegrating away. Always a great play bike if it's already battered.
Bring on the summer,
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@Darty those dog bones are awesome mate!! You've made such a good job of them the bike looks fantastic the way it's sitting
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@Biker_123 ahh safe, I can put up the DXF files if you want some? Got 2pairs cut for £10 down my end.
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@Biker_123 DXF files were drawn using Solid Works, I'm not sure what programs you might have to open these, but send these to any good company and they should know what's going on.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6aropyq2sjczw0z/Tie Bar 130mm x 6mm 1.dxf?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0bj1uprutg8im74/TIE BAR 120mm x 6 Reform1.DXF?dl=0
Enjoy!
Next up is a custom intake, really needed I reckon 32-36mm intake,
Will put up a plan after I get it made
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What an awesome build man im loving this! top job m8y
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@Biker_123 DXF files were drawn using Solid Works, I'm not sure what programs you might have to open these, but send these to any good company and they should know what's going on.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6aropyq2sjczw0z/Tie Bar 130mm x 6mm 1.dxf?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0bj1uprutg8im74/TIE BAR 120mm x 6 Reform1.DXF?dl=0
Enjoy!
Next up is a custom intake, really needed I reckon 32-36mm intake,
Will put up a plan after I get it made
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How did you make the bracket for the front brake
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How did you make the bracket for the front brake
@vtrn_raptor Hand sawed. filed, and machine sanded, you will need a Pillar drill!
I've only got a sketch you can follow, dimensions are rough and only for a YZF125 caliper that was modified. should be 68.5mm of the fork. I use 15mm spacers now of the hanger.
I started with NEV's example for a DTX caliper, and modified the fitments. If you have a DTX caliper then NEV's dimensions should be on point for you.
Create mock-ups and check your offset position thoroughly, CNC Steel alloy is a better option than ally.
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I really need to find someone who can make me one for the standard dt brake caliper as I don't have to tool to do it myself:(
really need to do some more work on my project and replacing the dog bones is high on that list along with a 520 chain conversion.
I'll have a look at these on the comp! Much appreciated.