The Leviathan Project
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A good pipe will make or break a two stroke.
Pipes have such a varied affect.
I won't rule it out, although 9 is extreme!
You can get 9 BHP more, but the Power Curve would be like J (Nothing nothing Nothing ohh power change).
Or get a pipe where it's powerband is more well rounded.
A wrap around exhaust is a huge compromise in performance. It's designed for clearance, not performance in mind. And underslung really releases that last part of the performance, at the expense of clearance.
But it's a stylistic choice that not everyone wants. I like it, it suits me as I dont' do, or plan on doing, offroading.
@Calum That's a Jollymoto pipe, which is very similar to Romeu's own version. It is a very unique look for-sure, the RS pipe tucks under pretty nicely tho, so it's not a total eyesore. This may be a future mod for my MX, along with other planned upgrades. The owner had other mods on it, here's his gibberish;
"my 41 bhp mx 125 its been tuned by 55cctuning.com they have dun all the dyno work all the tuning the beggest power mod was the jollymoto pipe off a rs 125 it gave it 9 bhp just from the pipe it was 26 bhp when i got it.the pipe made it 35 hp then i got 34 carb- racing piston-racing reeds-twinair air fliter-bigger jets that gave it 6 bhp its very fast for a 125 it run 14.flat at york dragway with a 4.9 0/60"
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Just a note for myself in the future.
Front Master Cylinder 2002 RSV Mille
Front Forks WR250F 2003 Kayaba 46mmThat's the problem when you go custom, can't remember where half this stuff is from
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Meanwhile on this project...
I have been enjoying the Athena kit so much I thought it would benefit from a mild port.
Off to Mick (who seemingly loves to chat about smokers on company time
) with the requirements.
In this instance I specifically didn't want the exhaust port raised, in essence the Athena kits power deliver is precisely where I want it. But the transfers, exhaust and powervalve did want a touch up.
Since the exhaust port wasn't raised I didn't need any work done to the head.
New piston, rings and gaskets ordered and I will endeavour to smash this on once that arrives, PJME said they are awaiting restock towards the end of this month.
All in all looks like a good job, but this is a VERY mild port for good reason. I have the RS for that screaming power delivery and I just didn't quite enjoy the peaky power of the ported 3MB once I had the RS and Cagiva.
Always Originate, Never Pirate!
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Meanwhile on this project...
I have been enjoying the Athena kit so much I thought it would benefit from a mild port.
Off to Mick (who seemingly loves to chat about smokers on company time
) with the requirements.In this instance I specifically didn't want the exhaust port raised, in essence the Athena kits power deliver is precisely where I want it. But the transfers, exhaust and powervalve did want a touch up.
Since the exhaust port wasn't raised I didn't need any work done to the head.
New piston, rings and gaskets ordered and I will endeavour to smash this on once that arrives, PJME said they are awaiting restock towards the end of this month.
All in all looks like a good job, but this is a VERY mild port for good reason. I have the RS for that screaming power delivery and I just didn't quite enjoy the peaky power of the ported 3MB once I had the RS and Cagiva.
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@Calum finally managed to get this fitted yesterday.
Some chap on eBay was selling Titanium cylinder mounts.
As well got a nice Yamaha Tuning Fork engraved YPVS cap.
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Well they had done superbly well...
I knew they need doing eventually. These were 10+ years old when I bought them and this has been my trusty steed for ~10+ years, once daily then stored for 4 years now just a weekend warrior.
Painless process to strip and rebuild and the kits are readily available on eBay.
All cleaned, rebuilt, new oil and refitted.
These are fully adjustable and I must admit, have just been on whatever setting they came with off the MX bike I bought them from. Since this is a road warrior, I've stiffened the suspension up a fair amount. I'll be interested in seeing how this now performs on the road!
The last ride out I did ~70 odd miles, the handling was becoming very poor. So I'm looking forward to the next adventure on it.
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C Calum referenced this topic on
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Getting there...
I am pretty happy with the design, I just need to modify where the holes go as there is that gap at the bottom I want to close up. It may just be easier to drill the holes myself.
I've got a quick print going now and I'll drill the holes myself and then remeasure it and do one final print. If that still comes out wrong then I'll just drill the hole myself.
Ideally it would all be part of the CAD so at least if, for whatever reason, I need another one, then it would be simple enough to sort out.
New rear disc ordered as mine is warped. Need a fresh set of tyres on this rude boy too. These are coming up for 10 years old now...wow 10 years
scary to think. -
The Leviathan Project
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Getting there...
I am pretty happy with the design, I just need to modify where the holes go as there is that gap at the bottom I want to close up. It may just be easier to drill the holes myself.
I've got a quick print going now and I'll drill the holes myself and then remeasure it and do one final print. If that still comes out wrong then I'll just drill the hole myself.
Ideally it would all be part of the CAD so at least if, for whatever reason, I need another one, then it would be simple enough to sort out.
New rear disc ordered as mine is warped. Need a fresh set of tyres on this rude boy too. These are coming up for 10 years old now...wow 10 years
scary to think.@Calum Is that a DT200R 3ET swingarm? Very nice, I bought one from Japan and it weighed literally half as much as the DT125R steel version.
However the plastic mud flap that protects the rear shock wears the (basically priceless) alloy swingarm away at the rear of the linkage bearing over time so it can be helpful to install something to prevent this. A lot of people with modern Huskies, KTMs etc. JB Weld a coin to the surface of the arm as they're prone to it as well.
I considered all that mud and chain lube floating about to be quite a harsh environment in which to try and glue two pieces of metal together so on my 250EXC I used the plastic sleeve which you get inside one of those boxes of sticky labels they sell in the Post Office cut open and cable tied on. Worked very well and I reasoned when it wears out you can easily make another one, but you might want to come up with a slightly more elegant solution for a road bike lol.
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@Calum Is that a DT200R 3ET swingarm? Very nice, I bought one from Japan and it weighed literally half as much as the DT125R steel version.
However the plastic mud flap that protects the rear shock wears the (basically priceless) alloy swingarm away at the rear of the linkage bearing over time so it can be helpful to install something to prevent this. A lot of people with modern Huskies, KTMs etc. JB Weld a coin to the surface of the arm as they're prone to it as well.
I considered all that mud and chain lube floating about to be quite a harsh environment in which to try and glue two pieces of metal together so on my 250EXC I used the plastic sleeve which you get inside one of those boxes of sticky labels they sell in the Post Office cut open and cable tied on. Worked very well and I reasoned when it wears out you can easily make another one, but you might want to come up with a slightly more elegant solution for a road bike lol.
@HOTSHOT-III No, I believe it's a Yamaha DT230 Lanza arm. But yes it's like half the weight of the original one I had. I just need to get the right parts machined up to fit my wheels etc. I've been so spent on 4/5 other very expensive projects that I just haven't bit the bullet yet to order the machine shop work.
With regards to mudflap where, I'll probably design some sacrificial item in CAD and 3D print it.
@RikuRo I've sent you various links. Any DTR from 1989-2004 will do.
