Athena 170

  • Hello! Today I ordered the Athena big bore kit for my Yamaha dt125x 05. I have new main jets but do you guys think I need pilot jets? Or anything else? Boysen reeds will probably go on as well.

  • To do it properly younwill probably need to rejet completely to suit.

  • anyone got experience from the kit?

  • Had it running on a 2001 DTR way back when. My brother had it on his.

  • @calum and? Was it any good?

  • @irongamer727 I rode it a few times, and of course back then I was blown away.

    Is it any good knowing what I know not really.

    For the money, you could invest it into a 3XP engine and have much more performance.

    But each to their own I guess.

  • Can't imagine you getting a 3xp engine cheap, I looked before I ended up buying a complete bike even a 3et on eBay was £450 time you paid postage

  • Yes and I'll stick my neck on the line here and say the 3XP engine is better off staying in the superior WR chassis. If you can get hold of individual 3XP parts at a reasonable cost however it's worth doing.

  • @nottsbiker with the wr alot of the parts are discontinued so if you come across bit of a dog your better off breaking it, I tried to source replacement panels and graphics but it's not happening and then a decent dt125r seems to make more money than a wr200 I think half of it is if your gonna cross over and go above a 125 with a full licence why stop at a 200 I personally wouldn't therefore the 200 in form of a 125 sounds good to me

  • Personal choice is what's going to be the decider here 😉

    I've had 3 DTR's 1 other TDR and 1 DT-WR and would always build a WR based bike over the road biased R every day.

    Like I said though it's personal choice 🙂

  • Final thoughts regarding weather to keep the autolube or not when running the 170.

    1. Keep autolube but tweak it to give more oil.
    2. Keep autolube and mix 1% oil into fuel.
    3. Go premix (3%)


  • @irongamer727 I know loads of people just ran with the pump.

    What do Athena recommend?

  • @calum removal of pump and run 3% ofc

  • @irongamer727 Ah ryt. Well if that's what they recommend.

  • The oil pump of the Yamaha DT 125 is an extremely reliable component and one of the most reliable parts of the engine. There are a few reports on the Internet that engine damage are attributable to a defective oil pump, however never heard of a single failure but usualy down to people getting muck etc in the oil tank.

    Does it have benefits without oil pump? No! Driving with the oil pump even has a significant advantage. If the engine when coasting run (eg motor brake a hillside rolling down) the oil pump continues to deliver oil in the engine compartment. In a disconnected oil pump of the carburetor is completely closed in this case and there is virtually no petrol (which in this case, too, the oil is included) into the engine.

  • @2stroketerry you have a point, my dilemma is that the pump might not deliver the amount of oil the cylinder needs. I've heard of people running on the pump with the kit who claims it works fine. Surely with my kind of riding it will be sufficient, but every once in a while even I want to twist the throttle. Wounder if the pump can keep up at 10 000 rpm+ during longer periods.

  • @2stroketerry Pump failed on my Belgarda....

  • Why is it you think a bigger piston needs more oil?
    It needs about 2%, just like a 50cc bike, and just like a 500cc bike.

    Fill the gastank and oiltank to the brim. Keep and eye on how much petrol you add, and how much oil you have to top up for a couple of tanks. Do the math, and work out the ratio the stock pump is giving you. You can still add 1% extra oil directly in the gastank while testing if you want.

    Just putting around, the pump will probably only supply 1,5% which is fine. At WOT youre closer to 3%.Thats the beauty of the pump, it gives you excatly the amount of oil you need.

    Cant wait to hear your thoughts about the kit.

  • Have also suffered a failed oil pump, on a mx250 left disconnected for who knows how long, but you can get them rebuilt and recalibrated to deliver greater oil flow as required. Mine came back looking new and have had 2 others done since.

  • Yes... after modifications your engine will need more fuel to compensate for the added air the engine now consumes, but that's your air to fuel ratio. Proper jetting gets you into the "happy spot" where you should be... not too lean and not to fat. The lubricating oil in an oil injected engine delivers the correct amount of oil regardless of how your jetting is. The stock oil injection system gets blamed a lot when an engine failure happens because of a lean condition caused by improper jetting (operator error).

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