1989 rebuild update
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Wheels fitted, brakes bled, c&s fitted, stainless spokes really make a difference. What I wanted for my 88 but never got, would like to have a go at rebuilding wheels myself next, anyone attempted it? Central Wheels did do a great job though, at a price. Need to get the decals sorted this week and minor bits to fit such as chain guard, disc guard, etc. Will update photo soon.
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@oldman I always thought wheel building was an art form. One twist of the spoke sends the wheel out of alignment.
What I thought at least. But I have since been told differently.
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wrote on 14 Jan 2018, 16:21 last edited by Jens Eskildsen
Building wheels inst an artform anymore than rebuilding engines. Slow and steady gets the job done. Its quite satisfying.
If you feel you fuck it up, you could always just assemble the wheel, and pay someone to true it. Picture from my Xt600:
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wrote on 14 Jan 2018, 17:06 last edited by
Definitely want to have a go, which spoke tool do you use?
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wrote on 14 Jan 2018, 17:15 last edited by
I just used a an adjustable wrench for the last bit. Most was done with a screwdriver (it fits the ends of the nipples) Im sure you could get a cheap spokewrench on ebay.
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I just used a an adjustable wrench for the last bit. Most was done with a screwdriver (it fits the ends of the nipples) Im sure you could get a cheap spokewrench on ebay.
wrote on 14 Jan 2018, 19:17 last edited by Calum@jens-eskildsen How did you true it?
The thing you got to remember, any imperfection in the true procedure will drastically show itself when you're doing 70 plus mile an hour. You can't really replicste that with home tools.
Again, not something I am deeply familiar with.
EDIT:
Yeah I just had a little ganders. Apparently it's one of those specialist skills that anyone can do, with a bit of practice.
I should look into it some time. If you're going to do it, stainless steel spokes and nipples is a must.
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wrote on 14 Jan 2018, 20:21 last edited by
That's my intention, the wheels central have done in stainless look excellent (and will stay that way)
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wrote on 14 Jan 2018, 22:18 last edited by
I believe the specs are max 1mm runout sideways, perhaps even up and down aswell. Why do you say you cant accomplish that at home?
I used the swingarm as a truing stand, and an adjustable wrench and a screwdriver, that was it. Remember to lube the spokenipples so they wont corrode.
Theres PLENTY of how-to's on youtube, its the same as truing a bicycle wheel.
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I believe the specs are max 1mm runout sideways, perhaps even up and down aswell. Why do you say you cant accomplish that at home?
I used the swingarm as a truing stand, and an adjustable wrench and a screwdriver, that was it. Remember to lube the spokenipples so they wont corrode.
Theres PLENTY of how-to's on youtube, its the same as truing a bicycle wheel.
wrote on 14 Jan 2018, 23:07 last edited by@jens-eskildsen Yeah nice mate. I will have to give it a shot sometime. Apparently it's very time consuming for beginners, but seems like a neat thing to be able to do.
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I need to get a new one brought the bike and didn't come with the steering lock key are they easy to remove without a key
wrote on 23 Jan 2018, 13:23 last edited by@vtrn_raptor said in 1989 rebuild update:
I need to get a new one brought the bike and didn't come with the steering lock key are they easy to remove without a key
While I have the bodywork off the 88 finally got round to removing steering lock on headstock, metal plate removed easily by using fox wedge between frame and plate (small screwdriver should do it) and gently easing pin out. Used sharp drill bits to gradually drill out lock (brass) and then wiggled to remove locking pin (be patient) and manipulated lock out. Was a bit seized so penetrating oil and wiggling finally got it out. Don't drill too far as you could force crap in to the headstock, as soon as you start drilling steel that's deep enough. Just need to clean out lockway in headstock then 5 mins to fit new one.
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wrote on 23 Jan 2018, 13:27 last edited by
Loving the attention to detail
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wrote on 26 Jan 2018, 10:24 last edited by
Yeah that's lookingwell smart.
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wrote on 27 Jan 2018, 15:36 last edited by
Fantastic work. Beautiful bike.
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wrote on 27 Jan 2018, 15:42 last edited by
Give me.
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Right , last pictures of finished build bar decals, pleased how it's turned out. Looking forward to riding this!(Only to the mot station
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wrote on 29 Jan 2018, 15:10 last edited by
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wrote on 31 Jan 2018, 00:06 last edited by
Seems like forever............... seriously though I can't say, think I have taken about 4 months on and off doing this one, last one was a bit longer, maybe 20 or more hours a week? Thing is I go in the garage and seem to find things to do all the time. Finally got an electrical connector kit so spent a couple of hours this evening replacing the tail lamp 3 pin connector under the seat.could have left the old chewed one there as it still worked but would niggle me. That's why I spend so much time doing it I think. Add on the time scouring the internet for parts and it gets even more, managed to find all new matching white panels bar one but it takes time, and I still keep looking for the missing one. Would sooner be doing that though than stuck in front of the goggle box, still waiting for decals so can't start next one until the 89 is gone. Decided to buy another shed this year as well, seem to have an unexplained amount of parts laying about
Will definitely be having a break when the better weather arrives, want to have a bit of fun on the red bike as delay with the wheels for that left no decent weather to enjoy it. Still tinker with that as well while waiting for decals. -
wrote on 22 Feb 2018, 19:17 last edited by
Finally received the decals this morning and wasted no time getting them on, the more eagle eyed of you will notice these are for the 1990 model but buyers choice and looks good imho! Just the mot when I can and the bike will be gone to its new home. A bit of decent weather first would be nice though.
