1989 rebuild update
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Slow down! Is the steering lock not integrated with the ignition switch? Didn't think that was such a "new" invention.
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Slow down! Is the steering lock not integrated with the ignition switch? Didn't think that was such a "new" invention.
@irongamer727 Not on the old DTRs mate. They're recessed into the frame. Like all the DT's before them.
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Here are the wheels back with tyres fitted and Galfer disc. Just have to touch in bare hub left where disc mounts, mates son takes all the credit for preparing wheels with bearings and discs
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Wheels fitted, brakes bled, c&s fitted, stainless spokes really make a difference. What I wanted for my 88 but never got, would like to have a go at rebuilding wheels myself next, anyone attempted it? Central Wheels did do a great job though, at a price. Need to get the decals sorted this week and minor bits to fit such as chain guard, disc guard, etc. Will update photo soon.
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Wheels fitted, brakes bled, c&s fitted, stainless spokes really make a difference. What I wanted for my 88 but never got, would like to have a go at rebuilding wheels myself next, anyone attempted it? Central Wheels did do a great job though, at a price. Need to get the decals sorted this week and minor bits to fit such as chain guard, disc guard, etc. Will update photo soon.
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@oldman I always thought wheel building was an art form. One twist of the spoke sends the wheel out of alignment.
What I thought at least. But I have since been told differently.
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Building wheels inst an artform anymore than rebuilding engines. Slow and steady gets the job done. Its quite satisfying.
If you feel you fuck it up, you could always just assemble the wheel, and pay someone to true it. Picture from my Xt600:
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I just used a an adjustable wrench for the last bit. Most was done with a screwdriver (it fits the ends of the nipples) Im sure you could get a cheap spokewrench on ebay.
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I just used a an adjustable wrench for the last bit. Most was done with a screwdriver (it fits the ends of the nipples) Im sure you could get a cheap spokewrench on ebay.
@jens-eskildsen How did you true it?
The thing you got to remember, any imperfection in the true procedure will drastically show itself when you're doing 70 plus mile an hour. You can't really replicste that with home tools.
Again, not something I am deeply familiar with.
EDIT:
Yeah I just had a little ganders. Apparently it's one of those specialist skills that anyone can do, with a bit of practice.
I should look into it some time. If you're going to do it, stainless steel spokes and nipples is a must.
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I believe the specs are max 1mm runout sideways, perhaps even up and down aswell. Why do you say you cant accomplish that at home?
I used the swingarm as a truing stand, and an adjustable wrench and a screwdriver, that was it. Remember to lube the spokenipples so they wont corrode.
Theres PLENTY of how-to's on youtube, its the same as truing a bicycle wheel.
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I believe the specs are max 1mm runout sideways, perhaps even up and down aswell. Why do you say you cant accomplish that at home?
I used the swingarm as a truing stand, and an adjustable wrench and a screwdriver, that was it. Remember to lube the spokenipples so they wont corrode.
Theres PLENTY of how-to's on youtube, its the same as truing a bicycle wheel.
@jens-eskildsen Yeah nice mate. I will have to give it a shot sometime. Apparently it's very time consuming for beginners, but seems like a neat thing to be able to do.
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I need to get a new one brought the bike and didn't come with the steering lock key are they easy to remove without a key
@vtrn_raptor said in 1989 rebuild update:
I need to get a new one brought the bike and didn't come with the steering lock key are they easy to remove without a key
While I have the bodywork off the 88 finally got round to removing steering lock on headstock, metal plate removed easily by using fox wedge between frame and plate (small screwdriver should do it) and gently easing pin out. Used sharp drill bits to gradually drill out lock (brass) and then wiggled to remove locking pin (be patient) and manipulated lock out. Was a bit seized so penetrating oil and wiggling finally got it out. Don't drill too far as you could force crap in to the headstock, as soon as you start drilling steel that's deep enough. Just need to clean out lockway in headstock then 5 mins to fit new one.
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