Dtr mileage
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@declan Try maybe once a year lol.
But then my barrel has been ported, larger intake and exhausts port cause excessive wear to the rings. When you start tuning, throw reliability out the window.
That said, didn't ride my bike this year so it won't need doing. And don't plan on using it next year, so I won't do it next year either.
No, you definitely wouldn't want to be doing 24k on a factory piston. Buy forged components and they will last a lot longer, but it's all about tolerances.
We are specifically talking 2 strokes here, but the principles apply to any mechanical engineering. So long as components are within tolerance, they should last.
But anything can happen, including manufacturing defects. So it's completely up to the builders discretion whether a component can be reused.
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Bought my bike at 22k miles. Piston went at 26k and scored barrel. It was still on original bore too.. piston swapped and going strong again, currently at 29k miles.
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@pjt95 Yeah...but it's not going to be making full power. And it won't last that long if the barrel is scored. And I don't know about you, but the last thing I want is the engine seizing whilst I'm doing 70mph...
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@declan Although he was coming off a corner, it seized on a straight.
https://youtu.be/g5_A5oi7wC0?t=34s
I just don't think it's worth the risk. If the bike isn't tip top, don't ride it.
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It was scored, I wasn't aware it was original piston until it went. I got it rebored and skimmed by Fahron Engineering so I'd say its in good shape now. Now I know how many miles this piston/ring and bore have done, I'll definitely be replacing rings when the time comes.
Mine seized on the way home from work on coming off an island doing 35-40mph, it deffo scared me.
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It was scored, I wasn't aware it was original piston until it went. I got it rebored and skimmed by Fahron Engineering so I'd say its in good shape now. Now I know how many miles this piston/ring and bore have done, I'll definitely be replacing rings when the time comes.
Mine seized on the way home from work on coming off an island doing 35-40mph, it deffo scared me.
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Crank and bearing looked/felt fine, never bothered to split it and take a proper look though. Not sure why it went, whether it was due to age ect. Although the wrist pin and small end bearing were VERY worn. It took a right big chunk out of the piston and most of it went out of the exhaust port.
Since I had the top end sorted it has been running like a dream.
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Crank and bearing looked/felt fine, never bothered to split it and take a proper look though. Not sure why it went, whether it was due to age ect. Although the wrist pin and small end bearing were VERY worn. It took a right big chunk out of the piston and most of it went out of the exhaust port.
Since I had the top end sorted it has been running like a dream.
@pjt95 Ah ryt, you did get it rebored then. That's good news.
Rule of thumb, these engines, 30K on the bottom end. I'd say that's really when you should consider pulling the motor for a rebuild.
Now then can and will do more than that, it's just it is cheaper to rebuild the engine, than it is to replace the crank cases. So well worth doing before it goes.
The key thing is, sound. It should start to knock at idle. But when you do a ring change, just check the tolerances. There is no need to split the cases to check these things so that's a moot point.
Regardless of miles, you should always check the bottom end. Since the top end is reliant on the bottom end. Always worth replacing if in doubt.
Always Originate, Never Pirate!
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@pjt95 Ah ryt, you did get it rebored then. That's good news.
Rule of thumb, these engines, 30K on the bottom end. I'd say that's really when you should consider pulling the motor for a rebuild.
Now then can and will do more than that, it's just it is cheaper to rebuild the engine, than it is to replace the crank cases. So well worth doing before it goes.
The key thing is, sound. It should start to knock at idle. But when you do a ring change, just check the tolerances. There is no need to split the cases to check these things so that's a moot point.
Regardless of miles, you should always check the bottom end. Since the top end is reliant on the bottom end. Always worth replacing if in doubt.
@calum 30 000 Miles? 50 000 km?
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Bottem end lasts for ages on theese things.
