What temp should a dtr125 run at
-
wrote on 25 Jun 2018, 14:41 last edited by
Mine runs at 57-60 degrees. If you stand still sometimes 80 degrees.
-
@ryanjimccfc mine runs at 90-100•c I let it cool if it reaches 110 (coolant sensor)
wrote on 25 Jun 2018, 14:42 last edited by@declan that's REALLY hot. Something is weird. What then gauge are you using?
-
wrote on 25 Jun 2018, 14:43 last edited by
It's in the cylinder head
-
wrote on 25 Jun 2018, 14:47 last edited by
My temp probe sits in the radiator fins (it's a trailtech) and the max I've recorded is 87degs.
Bear in mind that's with waterless coolant so nowhere near it's boiling point and it runs higher anyway. -
wrote on 25 Jun 2018, 14:55 last edited by
Mine is in the cylinder head.
-
wrote on 25 Jun 2018, 15:00 last edited by
Mine goes upto about 88 some times just wondering if that's to hot
-
Mine goes upto about 88 some times just wondering if that's to hot
wrote on 25 Jun 2018, 15:06 last edited by@ryanjimccfc that's fine mate
-
Mine is in the cylinder head.
wrote on 25 Jun 2018, 15:29 last edited by@irongamer727 i have a temp reading coolant cap yea I thought it was a little hot but it seems to run fine and iv had a lot hottter engines than that
-
@irongamer727 i have a temp reading coolant cap yea I thought it was a little hot but it seems to run fine and iv had a lot hottter engines than that
wrote on 25 Jun 2018, 15:55 last edited by Calum@declan Bear in mind, by the time the temperature at the coolant cap reaches X, it's already too late.
Personally, I'd run the temperature underneath the spark plug using a thermal coupling, or failing that at the cylinder head.
If your engine is bog standard, then you haven't got to worry, but once you start modifying, temperature is key to understanding the risks of detonation.
So getting as accurate reading as possible is going to help.
The hotter the engine, the more at risk you are to detonation. My DT runs savagely hot in traffic at idle even reaching temperatures of 110 degrees celcius.
But you must appreciate the forumula
pV = nrt
The specific latent heat of a substance is increased as pressure increases. So whilst water may boil at 100 degrees at sea level, that's not the case at 1.3 bar, which the radiator cap is rated to.
-
wrote on 25 Jun 2018, 16:07 last edited by
You shouldn't need to really worry until it sits at more than 105 or so.
-
@minia mine sits at 100 at the cap so I guess mines overheating? I don’t get coolant over boil
wrote on 25 Jun 2018, 16:44 last edited by@declan As I say, pressure needs to exceed 1.3 bar, which is massive. If you imagine my car only generates 0.8 bar of boost pressure.
This is a why waterless coolant has its benefits. 1.3 bar of pressure is exerted on the entirety of your coolant system. It's going to be mainly the radiator that will take the most damage. The drawback is that the specific heat capacity of it is less, resulting in higher operating temperatures.
-
@declan As I say, pressure needs to exceed 1.3 bar, which is massive. If you imagine my car only generates 0.8 bar of boost pressure.
This is a why waterless coolant has its benefits. 1.3 bar of pressure is exerted on the entirety of your coolant system. It's going to be mainly the radiator that will take the most damage. The drawback is that the specific heat capacity of it is less, resulting in higher operating temperatures.
-
@minia mine sits at 100 at the cap so I guess mines overheating? I don’t get coolant over boil
wrote on 25 Jun 2018, 16:55 last edited by@declan You're not overheating as long as your engine and coolant system still run efficiently. Keep in mind when water is pressurised it requires more energy for it to boil, which is why if you're riding hard on a bike your thermometer might say 105 celcius, but actually it's fine because it is pressurised and therefore your boiling point is raised.
And besides you will feel it if your engine is struggling, it will smell hot, you'll lose power, you'll hear it struggle at lower rpms etc
-
@declan You're not overheating as long as your engine and coolant system still run efficiently. Keep in mind when water is pressurised it requires more energy for it to boil, which is why if you're riding hard on a bike your thermometer might say 105 celcius, but actually it's fine because it is pressurised and therefore your boiling point is raised.
And besides you will feel it if your engine is struggling, it will smell hot, you'll lose power, you'll hear it struggle at lower rpms etc
-
wrote on 25 Jun 2018, 17:14 last edited by
Normal, what is normal? Outside temps vary by 20c theese days where im located. You'll have a hard time to reach 70c at the cap in the morning just cruising around, and having a hard time not to exceed 110c at the head in the afternoon on a tight track. Some valid points to where you meassure, temps will read higher in the head, compared to on top of the radiator.
Waterless coolant boils at higher temps, but something like Evans actually remove less heat from the engine, so...whats the point of that? I've never heard of anyone damaging a radiater due to cooling preassure. 1,3 bar isnt normal running pressure, but maximum pressure, before the cap lifts and "bleeds of" the excess. If you're worried, buy a cap with less pressure.
Unless it boils, its fine. Bike is designed to function with 100c or more coolant, otherwise it wouldnt have a 1,3bar cap on. Everyday use should be less of that, ofcourse. But the thermostat isnt even fully open at 80C, come on people...
Unless something is off, its also just about impossible to get detonation in our bikes with super low compression. I've ridden mine on 20% diesel as part of a bet, no issues.
Theres always small exeptions for modified engines, which generate more power and heat, but that goes for any engine.
-
wrote on 25 Jun 2018, 17:23 last edited by
Btw, isnt our stock cap a 1,1? Thats what I recall anyway.
-
Btw, isnt our stock cap a 1,1? Thats what I recall anyway.
wrote on 25 Jun 2018, 17:24 last edited by@jens-eskildsen 1.3 on my Starlet, I've been away from my DT so long I can't even remember.
-
wrote on 25 Jun 2018, 17:28 last edited by
-
Found one on ebay that said 1,1 and listed as beeing for a dt125r
wrote on 25 Jun 2018, 18:17 last edited by declan@jens-eskildsen yeah I don’t get Evans because people say it’s safe because you don’t overheat well yes you do it’s just the coolant doesent boil until such a high temp id much rather it boil over as then I know something is wrong rather that having a full rad but a melted piston