What temp should a dtr125 run at
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I have a digital dash on my dtr125 just wondering what temp the bike should run at
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I have a digital dash on my dtr125 just wondering what temp the bike should run at
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I have stage 6 clocks
@ryanjimccfc but where is the temp sensor
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Mine runs at 57-60 degrees. If you stand still sometimes 80 degrees.
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@ryanjimccfc mine runs at 90-100•c I let it cool if it reaches 110 (coolant sensor)
@declan that's REALLY hot. Something is weird. What then gauge are you using?
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It's in the cylinder head
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Mine goes upto about 88 some times just wondering if that's to hot
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Mine goes upto about 88 some times just wondering if that's to hot
@ryanjimccfc that's fine mate
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Mine is in the cylinder head.
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@irongamer727 i have a temp reading coolant cap yea I thought it was a little hot but it seems to run fine and iv had a lot hottter engines than that
@declan Bear in mind, by the time the temperature at the coolant cap reaches X, it's already too late.
Personally, I'd run the temperature underneath the spark plug using a thermal coupling, or failing that at the cylinder head.
If your engine is bog standard, then you haven't got to worry, but once you start modifying, temperature is key to understanding the risks of detonation.
So getting as accurate reading as possible is going to help.
The hotter the engine, the more at risk you are to detonation. My DT runs savagely hot in traffic at idle even reaching temperatures of 110 degrees celcius.
But you must appreciate the forumula
pV = nrtThe specific latent heat of a substance is increased as pressure increases. So whilst water may boil at 100 degrees at sea level, that's not the case at 1.3 bar, which the radiator cap is rated to.
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@minia mine sits at 100 at the cap so I guess mines overheating? I don’t get coolant over boil
@declan As I say, pressure needs to exceed 1.3 bar, which is massive. If you imagine my car only generates 0.8 bar of boost pressure.
This is a why waterless coolant has its benefits. 1.3 bar of pressure is exerted on the entirety of your coolant system. It's going to be mainly the radiator that will take the most damage. The drawback is that the specific heat capacity of it is less, resulting in higher operating temperatures.
Always Originate, Never Pirate!
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@declan As I say, pressure needs to exceed 1.3 bar, which is massive. If you imagine my car only generates 0.8 bar of boost pressure.
This is a why waterless coolant has its benefits. 1.3 bar of pressure is exerted on the entirety of your coolant system. It's going to be mainly the radiator that will take the most damage. The drawback is that the specific heat capacity of it is less, resulting in higher operating temperatures.
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@minia mine sits at 100 at the cap so I guess mines overheating? I don’t get coolant over boil
@declan You're not overheating as long as your engine and coolant system still run efficiently. Keep in mind when water is pressurised it requires more energy for it to boil, which is why if you're riding hard on a bike your thermometer might say 105 celcius, but actually it's fine because it is pressurised and therefore your boiling point is raised.
And besides you will feel it if your engine is struggling, it will smell hot, you'll lose power, you'll hear it struggle at lower rpms etc
Yamaha DT125R Blue 2002, XT 125 1982, Yamaha WR250Z 1992, BMW GS650F 1994, Benelli BN302 2015
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@declan You're not overheating as long as your engine and coolant system still run efficiently. Keep in mind when water is pressurised it requires more energy for it to boil, which is why if you're riding hard on a bike your thermometer might say 105 celcius, but actually it's fine because it is pressurised and therefore your boiling point is raised.
And besides you will feel it if your engine is struggling, it will smell hot, you'll lose power, you'll hear it struggle at lower rpms etc
