So Close!...
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I just got a 400 Kenda rear tyre. Am I going to regret it? Does the Dtr take a 400 tyre ok?
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@spookdog I've used the Loctite stuff before but its not very good, apparently Jennolite (sp?) is meant to be much better. Probably better to get blasted then paint immediately afterwards
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@spookdog said in So Close!...:
Anyone used rust converter on exhaust downpipe?...
Use harpic x10, a few of my mates use it on their WR125’s to get all the road grim that builds up and allow the pipe to bronze a nice colour however I’ve been told it’s known to strip stainless of its stainless ability so I’d also recommend getting your hands on some ACF50
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@spookdog said in So Close!...:
Anyone used rust converter on exhaust downpipe?...
Use harpic x10, a few of my mates use it on their WR125’s to get all the road grim that builds up and allow the pipe to bronze a nice colour however I’ve been told it’s known to strip stainless of its stainless ability so I’d also recommend getting your hands on some ACF50
@stevie-wonder Harpic is brutal but effective - it will mark the chrome on forks its that acidic. If you use it you must paint straight after as its bare metal which will immediately rust again
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@stevie-wonder Harpic is brutal but effective - it will mark the chrome on forks its that acidic. If you use it you must paint straight after as its bare metal which will immediately rust again
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@spookdog I used Hammerite kurust on my Dep downpipe that had rusted really bad at the header. It's a brush on rust converter that transforms the rust into a stable material. It turns it black then you paint it. Done at the start of this year and all good so far. £5 from Halfords.
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@spookdog I used Hammerite kurust on my Dep downpipe that had rusted really bad at the header. It's a brush on rust converter that transforms the rust into a stable material. It turns it black then you paint it. Done at the start of this year and all good so far. £5 from Halfords.
@markus-w said in So Close!...:
@spookdog I used Hammerite kurust on my Dep downpipe that had rusted really bad at the header. It's a brush on rust converter that transforms the rust into a stable material. It turns it black then you paint it. Done at the start of this year and all good so far. £5 from Halfords.
Pretty sure hammerite also do a gel rust converter, simply apply, let it’s do it’s thing then get to going at it with some good old fashion elbow grease. £15 I think (bit pricey) perfectly safe on paint and being the fact it’s a gel it’s rather ideal for leaving on in those hard to reach areas and fiddly bits
Also @Nottsbiker jheez. strong stuff then, I’m surprised it’s sold so freely over the counter if that’s the case
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@markus-w said in So Close!...:
@spookdog I used Hammerite kurust on my Dep downpipe that had rusted really bad at the header. It's a brush on rust converter that transforms the rust into a stable material. It turns it black then you paint it. Done at the start of this year and all good so far. £5 from Halfords.
Pretty sure hammerite also do a gel rust converter, simply apply, let it’s do it’s thing then get to going at it with some good old fashion elbow grease. £15 I think (bit pricey) perfectly safe on paint and being the fact it’s a gel it’s rather ideal for leaving on in those hard to reach areas and fiddly bits
Also @Nottsbiker jheez. strong stuff then, I’m surprised it’s sold so freely over the counter if that’s the case
@stevie-wonder its good for the price, you just have to be careful and only use it on the right parts
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@stevie-wonder its good for the price, you just have to be careful and only use it on the right parts
I had a good score recently, I got a 3mb barrel with a perfectly good piston in it that has 3mb embossed on the inside skirt, so I’m guessing it’s original? It also has the power valve, pulley & cover/housing as well as the cables with a 3wire servo connected!! (Rubber cover pristine) all still fitted. Also there is a perfect 3mb head
£130 off of fleabay! Of all places...The point is, I was warming it up to remove the temp sensor and I realised it doesn’t have 3mb stamped on it. Looked closer and the head and barrel are P stamped. Someone told me about this before but I can’t remember the details. I think it was originally a TZR top end? Did they come with servo fitted?
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I had a good score recently, I got a 3mb barrel with a perfectly good piston in it that has 3mb embossed on the inside skirt, so I’m guessing it’s original? It also has the power valve, pulley & cover/housing as well as the cables with a 3wire servo connected!! (Rubber cover pristine) all still fitted. Also there is a perfect 3mb head
£130 off of fleabay! Of all places...The point is, I was warming it up to remove the temp sensor and I realised it doesn’t have 3mb stamped on it. Looked closer and the head and barrel are P stamped. Someone told me about this before but I can’t remember the details. I think it was originally a TZR top end? Did they come with servo fitted?
@SpookDog 4DL Series 1 TZR125RR, cast in Italy by polini/minarelli (the italian cast 3mb barrels are a much worse quality in terms of the quality of the cast). The 4DL heads are blank on top with nothing but a P stamp on the side. The original 4DL power valves are the same as the DTR however the powervalve housing has a motor minarelli stamp on the cover that’s both original and unique to the 4DL Series 1. It’s also a nice metallic grey colour too.
Fun fact when I sold my TZR P top end I nicked the cover off it and sold it without just for that reason, makes not a sods worth of difference but oh well
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@SpookDog 4DL Series 1 TZR125RR, cast in Italy by polini/minarelli (the italian cast 3mb barrels are a much worse quality in terms of the quality of the cast). The 4DL heads are blank on top with nothing but a P stamp on the side. The original 4DL power valves are the same as the DTR however the powervalve housing has a motor minarelli stamp on the cover that’s both original and unique to the 4DL Series 1. It’s also a nice metallic grey colour too.
Fun fact when I sold my TZR P top end I nicked the cover off it and sold it without just for that reason, makes not a sods worth of difference but oh well
@Stevie-Wonder The TZR 3MB00P Barrel also had a 1mm raised exhaust port timing. And the connecting rods are slightly different
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@SpookDog 4DL Series 1 TZR125RR, cast in Italy by polini/minarelli (the italian cast 3mb barrels are a much worse quality in terms of the quality of the cast). The 4DL heads are blank on top with nothing but a P stamp on the side. The original 4DL power valves are the same as the DTR however the powervalve housing has a motor minarelli stamp on the cover that’s both original and unique to the 4DL Series 1. It’s also a nice metallic grey colour too.
Fun fact when I sold my TZR P top end I nicked the cover off it and sold it without just for that reason, makes not a sods worth of difference but oh well
Do you mean the pulley cover, or the right foot side cap? The cap on mine is a bit mangled and sealed with silicon
it’s the only down side I can see...
Yep, the head is blank except for the P. The barrel has the P stamped in the middle of the 3mb bit...Do you mean the Conrod itself or the crank throw? (Stroke)...
Is this P stamp a good thing or a problem waiting to happen?...
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Do you mean the pulley cover, or the right foot side cap? The cap on mine is a bit mangled and sealed with silicon
it’s the only down side I can see...
Yep, the head is blank except for the P. The barrel has the P stamped in the middle of the 3mb bit...Do you mean the Conrod itself or the crank throw? (Stroke)...
Is this P stamp a good thing or a problem waiting to happen?...
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@SpookDog It's a good thing if it's a genuine Motoriminarelli Barrel.
Sorry, the cranks are ever so slightly narrower. I had to have the stock 3MB rod whittled down to fit. But don't worry, cylinder + Heads are interchangeable.
Wow! Just took my head off and do you live and learn! I don’t have dome nuts for my head so I’ve been using normal ones, they’ve been letting the road water and rock salt (from a month or two ago) leak down into the studs and cause enough corrosion to lift the nut at the front of the engine! I put new studs in and the back four are still shiny! The front one has white crud like you get on battery terminals all the way down it past the threads!
It must of acted like frost in a crack in stone and forced it apart!
So much white crud!... -
Wow! Just took my head off and do you live and learn! I don’t have dome nuts for my head so I’ve been using normal ones, they’ve been letting the road water and rock salt (from a month or two ago) leak down into the studs and cause enough corrosion to lift the nut at the front of the engine! I put new studs in and the back four are still shiny! The front one has white crud like you get on battery terminals all the way down it past the threads!
It must of acted like frost in a crack in stone and forced it apart!
So much white crud!... -
Are there any stainless steel exhausts on the market at the mo? I actually have searched but everything seems to be 10 years ago. Can’t find anything recent...
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@SpookDog Althought they aren't Stainless.
Romeu makes Stainless Steel pipes.
https://www.ebay.ie/usr/romeu125?_trksid=p2047675.m3561.l2559
But he seemed to have stopped selling any on his page. If you PM him on eBay though....
You live and learn, continuously it seems! I’ve since found out that the carb on my bike is a 1999~2003 variation. It should have 240 main & a 25 pilot jet. Not only that, it seems to like it! It’s running sweeter, which only makes me wonder about my previous escapades with a 17.5 pilot jet. Let alone the 180 main and 22.5 it had when I first got it
Also it seems a previous owner repacked the tailpipe themselves and didn’t just use proper wadding, they literally bound the perforated baffle with wire wool so tight that the fibre wadding was pristine and the exhaust was ‘Braap, Braap, Braaappping’. Might as well of been a straight through pipe...What I guess I’m getting at is that you can work out and mend what has gone wrong, but sussing out what other people have made wrong isn’t quite as easy. Just one of the joys of a project bike I s’pose...
I just gone an got a 4hw TZR125 basket case.. I must be a machinochist!!
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You live and learn, continuously it seems! I’ve since found out that the carb on my bike is a 1999~2003 variation. It should have 240 main & a 25 pilot jet. Not only that, it seems to like it! It’s running sweeter, which only makes me wonder about my previous escapades with a 17.5 pilot jet. Let alone the 180 main and 22.5 it had when I first got it
Also it seems a previous owner repacked the tailpipe themselves and didn’t just use proper wadding, they literally bound the perforated baffle with wire wool so tight that the fibre wadding was pristine and the exhaust was ‘Braap, Braap, Braaappping’. Might as well of been a straight through pipe...What I guess I’m getting at is that you can work out and mend what has gone wrong, but sussing out what other people have made wrong isn’t quite as easy. Just one of the joys of a project bike I s’pose...
I just gone an got a 4hw TZR125 basket case.. I must be a machinochist!!
Bike seems to like the new jetting a lot. Just had one scare where the revs were at a maintained 7000+ and the engine just started to splutter, backed off the throttle and it was fine. Ran it out of petrol 3-4 miles after so I think it was just fuel starved at higher revs but scavaging enough at lower speeds. I put it onto reserve and it cut out abruptly (like a heat seazure) 1/2 a mile later. I’m guessing it was water in the carb (my tank is rusty bad inside and seems to ‘gather’ moisture a lot) and not a heat seize because it took a lot to kick it over after. I limped it the 30 miles home!
Since then I wrapped the baffles properly and the difference is amazing, it’s so quiet but the power comes on so much better. I haven’t had the chance to rag it because the piston has had 1 definite ‘mild’ seize on it (I caught it quickly enough that it didn’t stop running!) and I haven’t checked the piston or rings, though the barrel looked ok...
This is my progress ...
