Recommended reeds?
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I was going to make a thread about this shortly but might as well share on here.
I recently switched to the Chao carbon fibre ones you can find on eBay, and all I have noticed is that I lost 40km from my tank, possibly more.
Think it was @Darty who mentioned they dont have enough flex to them. I will definitely be switching back to plastic ones when I get the chance..
Funny how it could have such a difference from bike to bike. I swapped out my CR85 ones for Chao carbon ones and I near on halved my fuel consumption! Stock ones were pretty worn though.
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See I struggle with that concept.
The reed valve, or torque induction, was a mechanism to stop fuel from being sent back to the carburettor. The stiffer reeds make it so that the fuel can only flow one direction. So I can't see how it would cause such a drastic fuel consumption. Unless the reeds were so stiff that it required a massive force to get the fuel in. But then that doesn't sound right.
I guess I don't know, but I just feel like that isn't right.
Always Originate, Never Pirate!
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See I struggle with that concept.
The reed valve, or torque induction, was a mechanism to stop fuel from being sent back to the carburettor. The stiffer reeds make it so that the fuel can only flow one direction. So I can't see how it would cause such a drastic fuel consumption. Unless the reeds were so stiff that it required a massive force to get the fuel in. But then that doesn't sound right.
I guess I don't know, but I just feel like that isn't right.
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@Calum is there any real difference in reeds will my bike perform better with one set but not as good as others or does it generally make no performance or running difference?
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@declan No. Don't bother with carbon ones, I've never replaced the reeds, and they are originals from 2001'
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In my opinion it depends on what you are trying to accomplish. I fail to see how they could be detrimental. And if you want your bike to be maximum spec then it's another item to check off the list.
Do they make a difference on their own. Uhhm no I don't think so.
Do they make a difference when you are running ported barrels, bigger carbs and a rev limit of 20k, yeah of course they will. They are designed to stop reed flutter, that is tge reeds bouncing on the cage due to high pressure. That's what stiffer reeds are about.
I bought them because I am somewhere in the middle and for the sake of 20 quid I wanted to protect against reed flutter. And that may never occur on factory reeds, but it might have. I just wanted to cover all angles.
A comment was made earlier aboyt me passing judgement on opinions and not facts. You will find in even the most prestigious tuning books, a lot of it has to do with experience and opinions, because seldom does the theory work exactly the same.in practice due to the variety of factors. I have provided the theory, but in practice it may offer no benefit.
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i changed my reeds to the ebay crbon reeds and my fuel consumption has droped a lot on full tank so must be somthing in it
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In my opinion it depends on what you are trying to accomplish. I fail to see how they could be detrimental. And if you want your bike to be maximum spec then it's another item to check off the list.
Do they make a difference on their own. Uhhm no I don't think so.
Do they make a difference when you are running ported barrels, bigger carbs and a rev limit of 20k, yeah of course they will. They are designed to stop reed flutter, that is tge reeds bouncing on the cage due to high pressure. That's what stiffer reeds are about.
I bought them because I am somewhere in the middle and for the sake of 20 quid I wanted to protect against reed flutter. And that may never occur on factory reeds, but it might have. I just wanted to cover all angles.
A comment was made earlier aboyt me passing judgement on opinions and not facts. You will find in even the most prestigious tuning books, a lot of it has to do with experience and opinions, because seldom does the theory work exactly the same.in practice due to the variety of factors. I have provided the theory, but in practice it may offer no benefit.
@Calum Theory is one thing, it's about context more so. How do we practically apply theory with the ownership of a DT125R? It requires it's own logic.
The knowledge of tuning, I've found is detrimental in most cases to this engine, because of it's design, the inlet tract length and Airbox still amaze me with the efficiency of it.
It's hard to prove it's improved?
It's an interesting point about our opinions. Practical experience is what we are here to explore.
Debating theory is mere conjecture, and there is nothing wrong with that.
After 4 years, I've yet to decide if I have really bettered the original version I started with
Good to see the forum growing , one love to all!
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I also have hy-tech carbon reeds and I would say my bike is too thirsty for a 125 it goes through a full tank in no time at all probably just as thirsty as my mitsubishi evo
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@Calum Theory is one thing, it's about context more so. How do we practically apply theory with the ownership of a DT125R? It requires it's own logic.
The knowledge of tuning, I've found is detrimental in most cases to this engine, because of it's design, the inlet tract length and Airbox still amaze me with the efficiency of it.
It's hard to prove it's improved?
It's an interesting point about our opinions. Practical experience is what we are here to explore.
Debating theory is mere conjecture, and there is nothing wrong with that.
After 4 years, I've yet to decide if I have really bettered the original version I started with
Good to see the forum growing , one love to all!
@Darty I wondered this mate. When I got my dt some 7 years ago I remember it being much quicker than it is now lol.
But having ridden a bog standard one, I realise now that it is a lot quicker, but still slow.
I mean really bad on fuel. I get about 100 miles to a tank of fuel. That would be a mix of thrashing it and taking it steady. That's pretty good hoing for a smoker.
Always Originate, Never Pirate!
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@Darty I wondered this mate. When I got my dt some 7 years ago I remember it being much quicker than it is now lol.
But having ridden a bog standard one, I realise now that it is a lot quicker, but still slow.
I mean really bad on fuel. I get about 100 miles to a tank of fuel. That would be a mix of thrashing it and taking it steady. That's pretty good hoing for a smoker.
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@Calum well I'm hooked on my dt I was not expecting it to have that much power and speed but not only that but how smooth the gearbox is and how comfy the bike is I love it already.
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@Mightyman Aprilia box is hella notchy lmao.
DT is like a rifle action by comparison.
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Thought I would write an update from my previous post ^
It seems as though the 40km that was dropped from my tank must have been something of a 'bedding in' stage for these carbon fibre reeds, as I am getting normal fuel consumption again after cycling through another 5 - 10 tanks.
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@Calum sorry lads quick side questing connected my autolube up and ran the bike but no oil coming out do I need to bleed it or what?
@declan yes you need to bleed the autolube mate. When Im rebuilt my engine , I ran on few litres of premix to bleed my pump. There is a rubber blind pipe with small clamp on . Let the bike idling and manually twist the pump pull-wheel with the small pipe off , I have transparent pipes so Im seen when it start coming to the inlet. Might not be best method but worked for me ...
1979 Jawa Mustang 50
2003 Gilera DNA 125 R.I.P
2015 Keeway TX 125 SM
2006 Yamaha DT 125 X -
@declan yes you need to bleed the autolube mate. When Im rebuilt my engine , I ran on few litres of premix to bleed my pump. There is a rubber blind pipe with small clamp on . Let the bike idling and manually twist the pump pull-wheel with the small pipe off , I have transparent pipes so Im seen when it start coming to the inlet. Might not be best method but worked for me ...
