Yamaha DT125R '01 - Running Project
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Very smart. Nice auxiliary exhaust ports on them too! Should be a beast.
Powervalves are tricky things to come by. I askrd about having one made but they simply wouldn't do it because of cost!
Very frustrating but I am sure you will find one one day!
Easy on how you remove that sleeve. Even companies have been known to damage the ally cylinder removing them.
Will.keep an eye out for updates.
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You can buy new sleeves on eBay, I saw some wiseco ones a few years back. I have the nickasil bore, not sure what models had what
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@Louis-James Boss, got any quick pictures ?
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@Dartyhttp://rs1083.pbsrc.com/albums/j388/louisgar/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0861_zpsufktz9sf.jpg?w=480&h=480&fit=clip
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@ConnorDTR The main difference is the interface design and the ZEELYS are bit more intuitive to use I reckon. But I like the software from Ignitech, you can just drag points across your curve and it's easy to fiddle with. For a Single cylinder PV anyway.
Technically wise, Ignitech can prove less accurate and power valve control is not as good to setup as the ZEEL.. coming from some heavy tuners, but for average Joe bloggs, they are on par and the Ignitechs are way cheaper. I spec'd mine all in £115. Get a PC connector somewhere else.
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My bike is a jumbled up. full UK spec late 3RMJ 2000/01' model. It's on a 03' plate and I think it was a demonstrator bike when new at a dealership, somewhere unknown unfortunately as I bought it with no history..
This is well geeky, but I never ever see any DT's with imperial clocks? They are always Metric & Imperial, or just Metric. I don't want to know why.
And yes before my Speedo drive snapped, my chassis components at least have covered over 27,000 miles. Not bad, I've seen clocks over 40,000 miles on older 3DB1 bikes.. Yikes.
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Mines just imperial
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@Louis-James Just checked mine was both.
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Had to get out the shed today,
Rebuilt my 3RM02' - TM28SS, polished internals and re-jetted with the Ignitech ignition.
Fitting a Modified 1991'-93' KX125 throttle cable.
She's no looker, the body needs to be blasted, but inside she is minty.
Had a play and uploaded a new Ignition Map and it works well, Noticeable increase in torque low down and a big! improvement between 6-10k. + the 13t/51 setup keeps the power in. I'm having more fun squirting out of corners and sliding the back around in the revs. I don't think shes good for more than 70 flat out, it gets there quicker and that is the fun bit on any bike for me.
Mugged off a bandit 600 in a little uphill race, the dude was definitely surprised. I HATE the Suzuki Bandit. Just do.
Excellent upgrade. I like that the unit was labeled for me.
WR setup on the rear is definitely more rigid and thus more responsive, the back comes out progressively with a lower ride height, and the steering is slower upfront of course, Raising the rear another 1.5 cm should make this a little ninja!
The rear is a new bike, the YZ damper is so nice on Cotswold roads, if you can call them roads, A shock rebuild one day, but it's all just right as is.
So, now the Front end feels rubbish, A YZ Nissin caliper, TDR 320mm Disc and YZ125 - 3JD Fork legs on the shopping list.
Current Jetting:
280 Main
35 Pilot
Needle 5J25 - 5th grove from top.
6mm Reed Block spacer
Pipe Cross Airfilter
Drilled Airbox/w Snorkel in.3MB00 Barrel - 3BN Cylinder head - Standard Bore.
It's nippy, but would be destroyed by an RS/MX/SX Rotax.
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Can't stress enough value for money on ignition system for these bikes. Radically changes the power.
Looks great man love to hear about the success.
Next improvement I would look at is binning the restrictive 3BN cylinder head for a 3MB. Or have the combustion ring taken out.
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@Darty said:
Yeah the WR200 swingarm fits rather well. Straight in. I was concerned that the bigger swingarm would hit the reservoir on the shock under compression, but I've got clearance due the ride height. However the linkage frame bolt on my bike has fused absolute into the frame. So Im using the original DT suspension links onto the WR swingarm. Works fine, but using the the DT dog bones (original set), they are too short and basically jack the bike up about 6cm. This and the taller YZ unit make it ridiculous. The problem with this is reducing the steering angle. It's about 19 degrees or so now, and I can imagine, I'm pretty sure this will be a twitchy mess at speed. Lowering after-market links for the DT are stupid money. So I'll make some.
Did you make some dog-bones dude? I have some Lush racing -50mm ones going if you need them? I fitted them but never rode the bike, as I didn't like the feel of it, so I managed to get some stock ones instead. There brand new really and they wouldn't take em back, so If you want them we could do a deal for-sure!!! ;O)