Yamaha DT125R '01 - Running Project
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wrote on 24 Feb 2016, 18:21 last edited by
So what's the difference with the ignitech CDI and the Zeeltronic? Only just heard of the ignitechs
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wrote on 24 Feb 2016, 21:22 last edited by
Very smart. Nice auxiliary exhaust ports on them too! Should be a beast.
Powervalves are tricky things to come by. I askrd about having one made but they simply wouldn't do it because of cost!
Very frustrating but I am sure you will find one one day!
Easy on how you remove that sleeve. Even companies have been known to damage the ally cylinder removing them.
Will.keep an eye out for updates.
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wrote on 24 Feb 2016, 22:54 last edited by
You can buy new sleeves on eBay, I saw some wiseco ones a few years back. I have the nickasil bore, not sure what models had what
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wrote on 24 Feb 2016, 23:01 last edited by
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Spring has crept around ol' Coventry today. Blessed. And then some bits finally turned up at lunch time.
POWER.
Most of Yamaha's road going production castings are begging to be cleaned up gone over properly, because the castings make you wince in places. They are cost effective without hand finishing and, of course the time and labour is not necessary for a production run. Not even because it's old, they need some love.
Wrekt...She's a bit of a lemon. Cracked the sleeve to the top above the exhaust port. Still, new sleeve and some light repair work around the port and she's good to go. This will be the test mule for running a larger bore.
Ignitech came through, I should of spec'd a longer loom so I could fit it into the now empty airbox. There isn't much of anywhere with decent access and tucked in.
Looking forward to building up a 200R block.. maaybe some time on that.
Anyone want some money for a WR200 powervalve they somehow don't need? I'm your man.
wrote on 3 Mar 2016, 18:35 last edited by@Darty I have a wr200 powervalve spare
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@Darty I have a wr200 powervalve spare
wrote on 3 Mar 2016, 20:59 last edited by@Louis-James Boss, got any quick pictures ?
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wrote on 3 Mar 2016, 21:10 last edited by
@Darty I'll get some tomorrow I think it's baggy on the two joining downs but could be filled
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wrote on 4 Mar 2016, 12:33 last edited by
@Dartyhttp://rs1083.pbsrc.com/albums/j388/louisgar/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0861_zpsufktz9sf.jpg?w=480&h=480&fit=clip
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So what's the difference with the ignitech CDI and the Zeeltronic? Only just heard of the ignitechs
wrote on 12 Mar 2016, 13:49 last edited by Darty 3 Dec 2016, 13:59@ConnorDTR The main difference is the interface design and the ZEELYS are bit more intuitive to use I reckon. But I like the software from Ignitech, you can just drag points across your curve and it's easy to fiddle with. For a Single cylinder PV anyway.
Technically wise, Ignitech can prove less accurate and power valve control is not as good to setup as the ZEEL.. coming from some heavy tuners, but for average Joe bloggs, they are on par and the Ignitechs are way cheaper. I spec'd mine all in £115. Get a PC connector somewhere else.
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wrote on 26 Mar 2016, 23:08 last edited by
Moved to Correct Location
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wrote on 31 Mar 2016, 19:16 last edited by Darty 4 Nov 2017, 21:56
My bike is a jumbled up. full UK spec late 3RMJ 2000/01' model. It's on a 03' plate and I think it was a demonstrator bike when new at a dealership, somewhere unknown unfortunately as I bought it with no history..
This is well geeky, but I never ever see any DT's with imperial clocks? They are always Metric & Imperial, or just Metric. I don't want to know why.
And yes before my Speedo drive snapped, my chassis components at least have covered over 27,000 miles. Not bad, I've seen clocks over 40,000 miles on older 3DB1 bikes.. Yikes.
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wrote on 31 Mar 2016, 20:21 last edited by
Mines just imperial
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Mines just imperial
wrote on 31 Mar 2016, 21:36 last edited by@Louis-James Just checked mine was both.
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wrote on 13 Apr 2016, 21:22 last edited by Darty 4 Nov 2017, 23:14
Had to get out the shed today,
Rebuilt my 3RM02' - TM28SS, polished internals and re-jetted with the Ignitech ignition.
Fitting a Modified 1991'-93' KX125 throttle cable.
She's no looker, the body needs to be blasted, but inside she is minty.
Had a play and uploaded a new Ignition Map and it works well, Noticeable increase in torque low down and a big! improvement between 6-10k. + the 13t/51 setup keeps the power in. I'm having more fun squirting out of corners and sliding the back around in the revs. I don't think shes good for more than 70 flat out, it gets there quicker and that is the fun bit on any bike for me.
Mugged off a bandit 600 in a little uphill race, the dude was definitely surprised. I HATE the Suzuki Bandit. Just do.
Excellent upgrade. I like that the unit was labeled for me.
WR setup on the rear is definitely more rigid and thus more responsive, the back comes out progressively with a lower ride height, and the steering is slower upfront of course, Raising the rear another 1.5 cm should make this a little ninja!
The rear is a new bike, the YZ damper is so nice on Cotswold roads, if you can call them roads, A shock rebuild one day, but it's all just right as is.
So, now the Front end feels rubbish, A YZ Nissin caliper, TDR 320mm Disc and YZ125 - 3JD Fork legs on the shopping list.
Current Jetting:
280 Main
35 Pilot
Needle 5J25 - 5th grove from top.
6mm Reed Block spacer
Pipe Cross Airfilter
Drilled Airbox/w Snorkel in.3MB00 Barrel - 3BN Cylinder head - Standard Bore.
It's nippy, but would be destroyed by an RS/MX/SX Rotax.
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wrote on 13 Apr 2016, 21:56 last edited by
looks really nice what you have done top marks
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wrote on 13 Apr 2016, 22:26 last edited by
Bikes looking fantastic!
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wrote on 13 Apr 2016, 22:47 last edited by
Can't stress enough value for money on ignition system for these bikes. Radically changes the power.
Looks great man love to hear about the success.
Next improvement I would look at is binning the restrictive 3BN cylinder head for a 3MB. Or have the combustion ring taken out.
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wrote on 14 Apr 2016, 07:58 last edited by
Wow thats a pretty DT love the aftermarket stuff
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Can't stress enough value for money on ignition system for these bikes. Radically changes the power.
Looks great man love to hear about the success.
Next improvement I would look at is binning the restrictive 3BN cylinder head for a 3MB. Or have the combustion ring taken out.
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I saw some DTX Excels on the ol interweb with tread, and I thought. Now is the time. I'll build a street machine.
I got bored of trying to compile good condition early 90s YZ parts. It was then that I remembered a WR200 Swingarm and Caliper set that I found. Decided to go with it and fit it to my YZ shock.
Started with a proof of concept and fitted it together. Looks good, and the alloy swingarm frees up the rear. Got the weight down to under 110kg. It feels nice. Bust all the 4stroke 125s to pieces and keep up with the Aprilia boys.
Yeah the WR200 swingarm fits rather well. Straight in. I was concerned that the bigger swingarm would hit the reservoir on the shock under compression, but I've got clearance due the ride height. However the linkage frame bolt on my bike has fused absolute into the frame. So Im using the original DT suspension links onto the WR swingarm. Works fine, but using the the DT dog bones (original set), they are too short and basically jack the bike up about 6cm. This and the taller YZ unit make it ridiculous. The problem with this is reducing the steering angle. It's about 19 degrees or so now, and I can imagine, I'm pretty sure this will be a twitchy mess at speed. Lowering after-market links for the DT are stupid money. So I'll make some.
I need to sort out that spacer.
Wound the spring rate right up to compensate, makes the ride a little too plush for the road. It will do for now. Quick note. To adjust the spring rate when fitting this to a DT. There is NO access without removing the Side panels, Seat, Battery tray and Airbox. Ballache.
Next UP. Twin Rads. Because Twin Rads are cool. That and, I've removed the Oil pump and tank, so there is a big useless gap that needs to be filled. Why not unite a Radiator to its spritual home?
Fitted it with a couple of bolts into the OEM threaded tabs on the DT200R Right hand radiator. It's very snug. The plumbing is right up against the tank in situe, With the plumbing hooked up it's a rigid fit, Brackets one day. I did plan to mount the Bigger offside DT200 Rad I've got but I couldn't seat it in there without some fabrication. So now I have two header tanks. Looks strange.
Managed to get the all important DT200R split pipe.
Forgot about the spindle. DT spindle is too long, The WR swinger is narrower and you will need WR spacers and caliper. Quite like the Nissin unit of the WR, think it should give much more bite, and its lighter too. Got the lot pretty cheap.
Onto stuffing the new carb in there.
Using a 1989 Yamaha YZ125 inlet, they are actually for a TM34, 35.36 inlets came later into the early 90s. Which I forgot. So I filed some material away for the PWK36.
It was not going to fit, so I used a spacer template to relocate the fixings onto the Reed block. Also sanded and smoothed the bore of the inlet to match the DT reed block area. No steps or intrusions is a must.
Snug. Using a early 90s KX throttle cable, Running the same carb and Throttle housing as those KXs now. Werid setup.
Had a bit of trouble clearing the frame and shock to fit a Air filter. The Ram Air filter tucks into the air box a little, keeps some chain crap of it. Never going to be any good in the wet.
Had a screw head that was completely chewed. Don't be a clot. I'll never use it again.
Was not sure what to do with a caliper set up. Looked at TZRR units, TDR, XT and even a Cagiva Mito brembo. Nearly bought a Yamaha YZ Nissin unit, which would of probably been a better performer, Settled on a YZF125 caliper because its the same unit on the DTX. Cheap, and gold..ish should be alright.
Made a template out of wood to hang it.
Got some old, and very soft 6mm Aluminium and made the bracket by hand,
Cut some 15mm spacers to hang the caliper.
I didn't check the specific CDI on it, Mines a (3RM-20).. Bugger. went ahead and ordered a 3RM-00 CDI, for a loom which is slightly different and uses different connectors, So its got to go back to Ignitech and be sorted. My fault. So I cant play with the Ignitech for a while.
Damn. Postage isn't too bad. 8euro to sort.
Once that lot is in, think its prime time to sort out that old 3MB00 P barrel.
There is a bit of surface rust in there, but it is in reasonable condition. It looks like the piston seized in there a long time ago. Needs a re-bore.
wrote on 12 May 2016, 20:49 last edited by@Darty said:
Yeah the WR200 swingarm fits rather well. Straight in. I was concerned that the bigger swingarm would hit the reservoir on the shock under compression, but I've got clearance due the ride height. However the linkage frame bolt on my bike has fused absolute into the frame. So Im using the original DT suspension links onto the WR swingarm. Works fine, but using the the DT dog bones (original set), they are too short and basically jack the bike up about 6cm. This and the taller YZ unit make it ridiculous. The problem with this is reducing the steering angle. It's about 19 degrees or so now, and I can imagine, I'm pretty sure this will be a twitchy mess at speed. Lowering after-market links for the DT are stupid money. So I'll make some.
Did you make some dog-bones dude? I have some Lush racing -50mm ones going if you need them? I fitted them but never rode the bike, as I didn't like the feel of it, so I managed to get some stock ones instead. There brand new really and they wouldn't take em back, so If you want them we could do a deal for-sure!!! ;O)
