Messed up on my build need radiator advice
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@dan28
The manual says that the cooling works by “thermo ~ syphonic action in conjunction with the pump”, but basically when the coolant in the cylinder sleeve is hot enough to actuate the thermostat and open up, the pump will move it. I don’t know any other motor that has the radiator physically above the motor to rely on heat rising through convection
I guess I’m saying that I’d test run it with the rad mounted where you want it and see if it works. As long as the pump moves the coolant I don’t see any problem
I could be totally wrong though!
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@dan28
The manual says that the cooling works by “thermo ~ syphonic action in conjunction with the pump”, but basically when the coolant in the cylinder sleeve is hot enough to actuate the thermostat and open up, the pump will move it. I don’t know any other motor that has the radiator physically above the motor to rely on heat rising through convection
I guess I’m saying that I’d test run it with the rad mounted where you want it and see if it works. As long as the pump moves the coolant I don’t see any problem
I could be totally wrong though!@spookdog said in Messed up on my build need radiator advice:
@dan28
The manual says that the cooling works by “thermo ~ syphonic action in conjunction with the pump”, but basically when the coolant in the cylinder sleeve is hot enough to actuate the thermostat and open up, the pump will move it. I don’t know any other motor that has the radiator physically above the motor to rely on heat rising through convection
I guess I’m saying that I’d test run it with the rad mounted where you want it and see if it works. As long as the pump moves the coolant I don’t see any problem
I could be totally wrong though!If you look at yours the water goes out the bottom rad hose along the metal pipe an to the water pump
The problem I have using the dtr rad the water goes out the bottom hose an then has to travel upwards to the water pump
A smaller radiator mounted higher up would solve the issue an the water would travel down as intended
I m not sure how to add photos on here -
@spookdog said in Messed up on my build need radiator advice:
@dan28
The manual says that the cooling works by “thermo ~ syphonic action in conjunction with the pump”, but basically when the coolant in the cylinder sleeve is hot enough to actuate the thermostat and open up, the pump will move it. I don’t know any other motor that has the radiator physically above the motor to rely on heat rising through convection
I guess I’m saying that I’d test run it with the rad mounted where you want it and see if it works. As long as the pump moves the coolant I don’t see any problem
I could be totally wrong though!If you look at yours the water goes out the bottom rad hose along the metal pipe an to the water pump
The problem I have using the dtr rad the water goes out the bottom hose an then has to travel upwards to the water pump
A smaller radiator mounted higher up would solve the issue an the water would travel down as intended
I m not sure how to add photos on hereThe pump would still work and draw coolant up, it doesn’t rely on the coolant ‘falling’ down into the pump. It’s strong enough to lift fluid 2 foot. If it looks good, try it. If not do something that you like the look of!
There is a tutorial on this site for posting pics, if I can suss it you can! I use a phone and imgur (app) to host mine. Do a search, please, it sounds like a wicked build!...
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The pump would still work and draw coolant up, it doesn’t rely on the coolant ‘falling’ down into the pump. It’s strong enough to lift fluid 2 foot. If it looks good, try it. If not do something that you like the look of!
There is a tutorial on this site for posting pics, if I can suss it you can! I use a phone and imgur (app) to host mine. Do a search, please, it sounds like a wicked build!...
@spookdog I would rather it worked as yamaha intended so would like the radiator higher than the water pump
I trail fitted the gas gas radiator it will fit but as it is approx 15cm shorter then there will be less coolant compared compared to how much is in The standard radiator not sure if that's going to be an issue -
@declan said in Messed up on my build need radiator advice:
@dan28 I doubt the coolant volume being an issue
Would it not be the same as using your bike with a low coolant level as this radiator is 15cm shorter so quite a bit smaller -
@declan said in Messed up on my build need radiator advice:
@dan28 I doubt the coolant volume being an issue
Would it not be the same as using your bike with a low coolant level as this radiator is 15cm shorter so quite a bit smaller -
@declan said in Messed up on my build need radiator advice:
@dan28 I doubt the coolant volume being an issue
Would it not be the same as using your bike with a low coolant level as this radiator is 15cm shorter so quite a bit smaller -
@spookdog said in Messed up on my build need radiator advice:
@dan28
What country do you live in?
I m in the UK boss@dan28
My temp gauge barely goes up a CM, only time it went up halfway was when the head gasket blew on the hot day (2 days ago). I could run a 15cm smaller radiator on my bike without heat issues.
Put a 12v fan on it with a temp probe to the radiator and it’d be fine, IMO... -
@dan28
My temp gauge barely goes up a CM, only time it went up halfway was when the head gasket blew on the hot day (2 days ago). I could run a 15cm smaller radiator on my bike without heat issues.
Put a 12v fan on it with a temp probe to the radiator and it’d be fine, IMO...@spookdog after measuring the finned part of the gas gas radiator is only 15cm its literally half the size of the original
I remember callum saying he had issues with his bike running hot an he used the standard radiator
I would rather use a radiator closer to the intended size -
@dan28 according to the vapor unit, it was sitting at 100 celcius in traffic. Which seems way too hot.
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@dan28 according to the vapor unit, it was sitting at 100 celcius in traffic. Which seems way too hot.
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@spookdog not sure on my temp gauge when offroading in summer I would consider 110 Celsius to be time for cooling down since the motor would be smelling very hot
@declan
It’s weird, my temp gauge doesn’t rise much at all in stop~start nightmare traffic. What does happen is my gear change gets ’sticky’, it won’t go into neutral without a struggle. That’s when my engine smells hot.Trouble is a radiator is doing next to nothing if it doesn’t have any airflow forcing convection. Sitting in traffic is the worst possible scenario. I don’t have any cooling problems, if I did I’d put 1 or 2 12v fans on the radiator. The kind you get in computers for CPU cooling but bigger, there’s loads out there. have a temperature actuator probe that sits in the fins of the radiator, so they only come on when needed. If the problem was bad I’d shroud the fans th the radiator as well...
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@declan
It’s weird, my temp gauge doesn’t rise much at all in stop~start nightmare traffic. What does happen is my gear change gets ’sticky’, it won’t go into neutral without a struggle. That’s when my engine smells hot.Trouble is a radiator is doing next to nothing if it doesn’t have any airflow forcing convection. Sitting in traffic is the worst possible scenario. I don’t have any cooling problems, if I did I’d put 1 or 2 12v fans on the radiator. The kind you get in computers for CPU cooling but bigger, there’s loads out there. have a temperature actuator probe that sits in the fins of the radiator, so they only come on when needed. If the problem was bad I’d shroud the fans th the radiator as well...
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@spookdog the sticky gear changes might be your clutch overheating and putting pressure on the gearbox
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@declan
Makes sense, especially when I ride the clutch like a numpty, rather than putting it in neutral, or just slowvertaking the stagnant traffic!
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@spookdog meh clutches are dirt cheap and take 10 minutes to do and they last year's so just ride that clutch lol
