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@declan I quite like the blue barrel and head. Can I pick your brains on the wheels please? I plan on doing my wheels satin black. Have you got any tips for Which primer to help the paint adhere to the standard (chrome?) Rims please? Also which paint and lacquer please? I've considered powder coating but I believe I'd have to strip and rebuild the wheels
@markus-w I can't help you out too much bud the wheels were just a quick and dirty job, originally I sprayed my rims Matt black no primer no lacquer and it adhered almost perfect to them I went over that with a gold brush on paint rustoleum I think it was and that adheres to anything then I just brushed satin black over that I intend on doing them properly at some point, if I were doing it without powder coating I would use a self etching primer cover the chrome fully them just pick a good quality paint of your choice and do light coats one 500ml can should be enough for both wheels providing you do light costs I personally wouldn't bother with lacquer but that's your call.
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@markus-w I can't help you out too much bud the wheels were just a quick and dirty job, originally I sprayed my rims Matt black no primer no lacquer and it adhered almost perfect to them I went over that with a gold brush on paint rustoleum I think it was and that adheres to anything then I just brushed satin black over that I intend on doing them properly at some point, if I were doing it without powder coating I would use a self etching primer cover the chrome fully them just pick a good quality paint of your choice and do light coats one 500ml can should be enough for both wheels providing you do light costs I personally wouldn't bother with lacquer but that's your call.
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hey guys so it was test fire fast today and after a ton of kicking it ran twice for a few secs it was very weak I've narrowed it down to a weak spark the spark is blue but even if I hold the plug it doesent shock me nor if I put my finger in the ht cap the stator was tested as good not too long ago I will have to re check that I can't see anything obvious on the cdi side of things, but my wiring loom is bad a lot of connectors that just don't have anything connected mostly bullet connectors behind the headlight besides the kill switch which I also don't have is there any wires not including the key switch that can ground and weaken spark
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hey guys so it was test fire fast today and after a ton of kicking it ran twice for a few secs it was very weak I've narrowed it down to a weak spark the spark is blue but even if I hold the plug it doesent shock me nor if I put my finger in the ht cap the stator was tested as good not too long ago I will have to re check that I can't see anything obvious on the cdi side of things, but my wiring loom is bad a lot of connectors that just don't have anything connected mostly bullet connectors behind the headlight besides the kill switch which I also don't have is there any wires not including the key switch that can ground and weaken spark
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@declan Relative false alarm guys the Chinese dt125r coil pack i bought a year or so ago and only rode on once was dead I swapped it to the oem one that i thought was dead and it fired right up, y'know there's a lesson in here somewhere
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@declan I bought one of those "Racing" coils. Nothing but problems. Since fitted genuine 3WM Coil now runs fine.
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@calum I've used all manor of un branded Chinese stuff and still do but anything Chinese that specifically says it fits the dt parts wise has been absolute crap
The bike runs decent but I still have play in the stator side crank even though it has brand new koyo mains is it possible the crank has worn down somehow over the years, it was all tight when I fitted them and it's only ran for around 3 minutes and I have a top end rattle I can't find any cause for this piston fits good no compression change powervalve seems fine it didn't have this sound before the only thing that's channged are new mains new piston and v force reeds it doesent sound like the crank I'm also using a thinner base gasket but surely that's not enough to cause issues?
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The bike runs decent but I still have play in the stator side crank even though it has brand new koyo mains is it possible the crank has worn down somehow over the years, it was all tight when I fitted them and it's only ran for around 3 minutes and I have a top end rattle I can't find any cause for this piston fits good no compression change powervalve seems fine it didn't have this sound before the only thing that's channged are new mains new piston and v force reeds it doesent sound like the crank I'm also using a thinner base gasket but surely that's not enough to cause issues?
The play in the flywheel feels the same as it's always been I rode it for years with the same play so I'm assuming the crank surface might have worn down, when it's running and I put my finger on the plastic pv pulley there's a deep sounding impact noise as far as I'm aware it's always done that is that normal?
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The play in the flywheel feels the same as it's always been I rode it for years with the same play so I'm assuming the crank surface might have worn down, when it's running and I put my finger on the plastic pv pulley there's a deep sounding impact noise as far as I'm aware it's always done that is that normal?
Is the piston over 57mm? Sometimes the power valve needs grinding to profile so it doesn’t hit the piston. The same with the head and the head gasket.
Have you adjusted the power valve position and/or gotten a rebore very recently?The new bearings should eliminate any play. Are you sure the flywheel is tight on the crank? Do you have the thick washer fitted under the nut?
If you undo the nut and the flywheel is anything other than on there tight and needing a puller to remove, there’s something wrong...I use a large flathead screwdriver to check for main bearing play on the flywheel side. Very gentle up and down pressure shows any real wear. Anything else is just flex in the shaft...
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Is the piston over 57mm? Sometimes the power valve needs grinding to profile so it doesn’t hit the piston. The same with the head and the head gasket.
Have you adjusted the power valve position and/or gotten a rebore very recently?The new bearings should eliminate any play. Are you sure the flywheel is tight on the crank? Do you have the thick washer fitted under the nut?
If you undo the nut and the flywheel is anything other than on there tight and needing a puller to remove, there’s something wrong...I use a large flathead screwdriver to check for main bearing play on the flywheel side. Very gentle up and down pressure shows any real wear. Anything else is just flex in the shaft...
@spookdog thick washer is not installed since ive lost it but there's enough thread that its not needed flywheel is tight and fitted correctly, removed the cylinder earlier no damage or marks on piston or rings no sign of detonation i fitted an oem thickness base gasket while i was there nothing wrong with the rod or bearings wrist pin is good
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Is the piston over 57mm? Sometimes the power valve needs grinding to profile so it doesn’t hit the piston. The same with the head and the head gasket.
Have you adjusted the power valve position and/or gotten a rebore very recently?The new bearings should eliminate any play. Are you sure the flywheel is tight on the crank? Do you have the thick washer fitted under the nut?
If you undo the nut and the flywheel is anything other than on there tight and needing a puller to remove, there’s something wrong...I use a large flathead screwdriver to check for main bearing play on the flywheel side. Very gentle up and down pressure shows any real wear. Anything else is just flex in the shaft...
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The power valves knock, when the bushes wear. But the valves also seem to wear aswell. Also the right hand power valve cap isn't a great design, having only one fixing point. Probably why Yamaha changed the design of the power valve on the 4fu cylinders.
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The power valves knock, when the bushes wear. But the valves also seem to wear aswell. Also the right hand power valve cap isn't a great design, having only one fixing point. Probably why Yamaha changed the design of the power valve on the 4fu cylinders.
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Okay engines stripped again cranks out and I can't find any issues both mains look good and bearing was tight on the crank and needed pressing out of the case
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The only potential issue I can see is the clutch side crank bearing is a slip fit to the crank it can be dropped on and pulled off the crank without any force what so ever does anyone remember if that's normal for the clutch side to be a slip fit
Nether of them should be that easy. See if that bearing slides easy onto the other side of the crank. If it doesn’t then the clutch side bearing journal is worn...
If so you could try using fully hardening bearing lock. Like the Lockheed thread lock stuff... -
Nether of them should be that easy. See if that bearing slides easy onto the other side of the crank. If it doesn’t then the clutch side bearing journal is worn...
If so you could try using fully hardening bearing lock. Like the Lockheed thread lock stuff...@spookdog I tried one of the old bearings that I removed and that was the same, the bearing locker probably won't work it's only meant to stop spinning bearings this has lateral load so I'd imagine it would last a few seconds and then fail I'm gonna grab a used crank I just don't know what one to get some say the stroke used to be shorter but I don't know
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@spookdog I tried one of the old bearings that I removed and that was the same, the bearing locker probably won't work it's only meant to stop spinning bearings this has lateral load so I'd imagine it would last a few seconds and then fail I'm gonna grab a used crank I just don't know what one to get some say the stroke used to be shorter but I don't know
