DTR
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Hi all. Just want to say hello and its nice to be to a newbie on the site. I've owned my DT125R for about three years now, its a French import now on a 1991 UK plate. I had a look around it when I first got it and it now has 9000 km on the clock. I was suprised to see electric start on such a early model with the electrics wedged into the LH outer casing. Since getting it I found out it was burning gear oil from the RH clutch side so I replaced the crank seal on that side, the hardest part was getting those 2 screws off the baffle plate and the bigger screw holding down the seal plate...RED locktight solid
I hope to learn more about the bike through the forum, it needs a top end build.Hi bud! Nice to see another dtr enthusiast
Do you know what year the bike was made…Best tips I’ve found for the cross heads is to definitely use a ratchet and socket with bit (Bahco make some wicked little sets of 1/4 & 1/8) So much more ‘positive’ than a screwdriver. Sharp tap with a hammer to shock/loosen. Sometimes tightening it slightly cracks any ‘seize’, especially on a worn bolt…
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Hi Spookdog. The bikes a 1991 French import, cheers for the info about the screws. It looks all original, I've had it about 3yrs but recently started the top end. Took the cylinder to a local bike engineers who bore and fit a new piston, the original was 56mm its now been bored to 57mm but the piston seems sloppy in the barrel, can get a larger feeler down than speck....not good! Its bound to slap if over sized!? Whats your thoughts, its not back together yet.
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Hi Spookdog. The bikes a 1991 French import, cheers for the info about the screws. It looks all original, I've had it about 3yrs but recently started the top end. Took the cylinder to a local bike engineers who bore and fit a new piston, the original was 56mm its now been bored to 57mm but the piston seems sloppy in the barrel, can get a larger feeler down than speck....not good! Its bound to slap if over sized!? Whats your thoughts, its not back together yet.
@DTTOLATE
It’ll slap and get worse quickly, well it has in my experience.
Piston should be tight in the bore. The only place I would get a rebore done now would be a reputable one. I use PJME because I heard nothing but good about them and the finish is excellent. I used a local engineer to get a barrel honed and it came back looking like it was raped by a Brillo pad!..If it’s as bad as you say I’d take it back to be fixed. You paid for a service you should be happy with.
Can you post pics of the finish in the barrel? If the it’s that bad I’m concerned about the hatching and the port skirting -
Hi all. Just want to say hello and its nice to be to a newbie on the site. I've owned my DT125R for about three years now, its a French import now on a 1991 UK plate. I had a look around it when I first got it and it now has 9000 km on the clock. I was suprised to see electric start on such a early model with the electrics wedged into the LH outer casing. Since getting it I found out it was burning gear oil from the RH clutch side so I replaced the crank seal on that side, the hardest part was getting those 2 screws off the baffle plate and the bigger screw holding down the seal plate...RED locktight solid
I hope to learn more about the bike through the forum, it needs a top end build. -
Spookdog thanks for the reply, I'm currently trying to suss this posting pics, I'll get some up when or if I can.
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The coffin cover
knocked it up myself, used the existing screws holding the cylinder. -
Looks smart I do love custom bits my brother made me some of these chain adjusters
So much nicer than the OEM steel ones
What do you think?
