DTR
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Hi all. Just want to say hello and its nice to be to a newbie on the site. I've owned my DT125R for about three years now, its a French import now on a 1991 UK plate. I had a look around it when I first got it and it now has 9000 km on the clock. I was suprised to see electric start on such a early model with the electrics wedged into the LH outer casing. Since getting it I found out it was burning gear oil from the RH clutch side so I replaced the crank seal on that side, the hardest part was getting those 2 screws off the baffle plate and the bigger screw holding down the seal plate...RED locktight solid
I hope to learn more about the bike through the forum, it needs a top end build.@DTTOLATE Welcome buddy, the old shape DTRe is the best of the lot IMO
I use Flickr to post up pics on here. Choose one out of your photostream, click the download icon and choose "view all sizes", then right click the picture and choose "open image in new tab". Copy and paste the URL from that webpage into the image link on here.
Here's a pic of how I managed to get those three baffle plate screws out (the Loctite is particularly vicious). Get a set of pound through JIS screwdrivers from Yambits; the largest one has an 8mm hex so cut off the tip to make a JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) bit that fits into 8mm sockets so you can really crank on the screws with a ratchet etc. This also fits the 1/2" drive impact drivers which sell for around £20 in Argos, ebay etc. A bit of coarse valve grinding paste also helps the bit bite into the screw head but if you use this, make sure all traces of it are gone before reassembling your engine! The actual screws cost pence from Fowlers so worth buying genuine and just replacing them (there's a couple more inside the crankcases).
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Hi all. Just want to say hello and its nice to be to a newbie on the site. I've owned my DT125R for about three years now, its a French import now on a 1991 UK plate. I had a look around it when I first got it and it now has 9000 km on the clock. I was suprised to see electric start on such a early model with the electrics wedged into the LH outer casing. Since getting it I found out it was burning gear oil from the RH clutch side so I replaced the crank seal on that side, the hardest part was getting those 2 screws off the baffle plate and the bigger screw holding down the seal plate...RED locktight solid
I hope to learn more about the bike through the forum, it needs a top end build.Hi bud! Nice to see another dtr enthusiast
Do you know what year the bike was made…Best tips I’ve found for the cross heads is to definitely use a ratchet and socket with bit (Bahco make some wicked little sets of 1/4 & 1/8) So much more ‘positive’ than a screwdriver. Sharp tap with a hammer to shock/loosen. Sometimes tightening it slightly cracks any ‘seize’, especially on a worn bolt…
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Hi Spookdog. The bikes a 1991 French import, cheers for the info about the screws. It looks all original, I've had it about 3yrs but recently started the top end. Took the cylinder to a local bike engineers who bore and fit a new piston, the original was 56mm its now been bored to 57mm but the piston seems sloppy in the barrel, can get a larger feeler down than speck....not good! Its bound to slap if over sized!? Whats your thoughts, its not back together yet.
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Hi Spookdog. The bikes a 1991 French import, cheers for the info about the screws. It looks all original, I've had it about 3yrs but recently started the top end. Took the cylinder to a local bike engineers who bore and fit a new piston, the original was 56mm its now been bored to 57mm but the piston seems sloppy in the barrel, can get a larger feeler down than speck....not good! Its bound to slap if over sized!? Whats your thoughts, its not back together yet.
@DTTOLATE
It’ll slap and get worse quickly, well it has in my experience.
Piston should be tight in the bore. The only place I would get a rebore done now would be a reputable one. I use PJME because I heard nothing but good about them and the finish is excellent. I used a local engineer to get a barrel honed and it came back looking like it was raped by a Brillo pad!..If it’s as bad as you say I’d take it back to be fixed. You paid for a service you should be happy with.
Can you post pics of the finish in the barrel? If the it’s that bad I’m concerned about the hatching and the port skirting -
Hi all. Just want to say hello and its nice to be to a newbie on the site. I've owned my DT125R for about three years now, its a French import now on a 1991 UK plate. I had a look around it when I first got it and it now has 9000 km on the clock. I was suprised to see electric start on such a early model with the electrics wedged into the LH outer casing. Since getting it I found out it was burning gear oil from the RH clutch side so I replaced the crank seal on that side, the hardest part was getting those 2 screws off the baffle plate and the bigger screw holding down the seal plate...RED locktight solid
I hope to learn more about the bike through the forum, it needs a top end build. -
Spookdog thanks for the reply, I'm currently trying to suss this posting pics, I'll get some up when or if I can.
