PIC HEAVY (wr200 topend , zeeltronic, tm34ss carb, V-force reed block,Larger radiator,DEP PIPE,)
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@Louis-James hi
how much different does the zeeltronic make to you?
does it come with plugs fitted to the cdi?
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@aidan1996 makes all the difference, especially as I have a wr200 top end. Let's me have more variation from fully close to open on the PV. Also advancing the ignition timing was a big bonus.
Mine was the first one ever for my model of Dt125r which I helped them develop it.
They made mine for free but I had to pay for the hand held programmer. -
That bike is a piece of art!!! Fairplay dude thats one of the best dt's I've seen
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@smudge1995 thank you very much
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@Louis-James You need to embed them but.
There is a tutorial on here if you're unsure.
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@Louis-James Yes but I am no longer using that plugin anymore since everytime I upgrade the forum I have to remember what plugins I installed and it was annoying me so I stopped. Ask cyberninja how many times I forget the flipping emoticons lmao
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@Louis-James As said there is a guide on here how to do it, it's straightforward nothing complex about it.
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@Louis-James It's up to you, it's your build thread, display the information however you want.
I'm sure my build has got more photos than yours and I managed alright. It's something I took pride in.
One thing I did was move all of the photos off the first post, so that the page can load and then you can load the photos later. But I sort by latest post. I also moved all the build pictures into one post so it was just a continuous blog.
But each to their own.
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Got a few small but satisfying jobs to do.
Fit the 17t front sprocket to gear up.
Fit stronger clutch springs (uprated wr200 ones)
Coolant and oil change.
Custom thicker core alloy radiator.
Replace LH crank case cover with a silver one to match.
General fine tune and visual tweeks.
I have it on the bench next to a standard one with a spare sub frame bracket. Bottom hose connector needs repositioning. Mounting brackets need welding on and also for the guard
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Starting the fabrication, sits very nicely in the sub frame. Removed hose connections and prepped new ones to be welded on (and weld the big hole)
Then I'll fabricate new brackets to take the old rubber mounts. Also checked the clearance for when it's on the bike. Should be plenty room before hits the fuel tank.
Fabricated the two mounting brackets. Jigged it up using the subframe to ensure it's not going to rub. It will be free floating on the rubber mounts as it should.
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@Louis-James This ought to make a nice difference in cooling!
Just for anyone else wondering a single ally rad is going to be much more performant than twin iron rads.
Just have to be careful not to cool the engine by too much else you'll heat seize the engine on long runs.
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Hopefully @Calum, still was running alright on my standard radiator for the wr200 motor even though it has 2 as standard.
What do you mean by iron? Who would fit that? Would be heavy as.
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@Louis-James Stock brass or steel or whatever the original radiators are made from. I know on cars they tend to be brass.
On the Starlets you can get way with running a radiator half the size if it's an ally one as it dissapates heat so much better. -
Also to note, this core may be 10mm shorter but has 11 cooling tubes and not 8. Also 20mm thicker
