DT 125 R '88... New project
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Okey you did it that way
Today I struggle with front brake pads... I've seen and changed various brake parts in various vehicles, and never been so hard... I don't know did I do something wrong or am I just stupid
But now it's there... Maybe pad retaining spring wasn't in original shape anymore... I need to take it apart again, cause caliper seals ware so bad condition... Next step is to change rear tyre 
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Few days ago I changed original snorkel to an DT230 Lanza version... Few decals arrived also from ebay... Not changing them now... later... maybe during winter... If I decide to take the bike in parts and do some painting to body and rear swing...
Been sitting in google for hours and days
... searching for something fun:
maybe I will change Gianelli exhaust, Athena 170cc cyl kit and mikuni TM30 carburetor during winter... Those shoud give me more pleasure to ride And still keep original look... Need to work hard to make the money for that -
A little update... Today I fixed front brake... Sealing was worn, and it would be only matter of time, when the brake cylinder would stuck totally... It was already a bit lazy I think... I did it just in time, there ware some corrosion in brake caliper, but I used sand paper and decide that it's still useful... Piston was in excellent condition... Old brake fluid was quite black and shitty... perhaps original and nearly 30 years old? Then caliper rebuild with new sealing and gasket... Tomorrow I have to bleed air away from the system... It looks like I have to use pressured air to force brake fluid into caliper... Brake lever is now doing nothing
Sorry that I was too lazy to take any photos...I found myself from ordering a new carb... Mikuni TM30... and it's on the way already
And earlier I also ordered DT230 Lanza version of carburetor -> air box joint... Lanza item should be direct fit to TM30 carb and maybe some minor modification to the original air box... On the engine side, the diameter difference (VM28 vs TM30) is only 1mm bigger, I assume it will fit to the original intake rubber... TM30 is also 5mm longer, but that shouldn't be any problem...Anyone have idea for right main jet? 160? 170? 180?
Silocone tubes arrived yesterday, I will replace all 2-stroke oil feed tubes from oiltank, to carb...
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Today I changed leaking autolube hoses to a silicone one... I ordered them from ebay many weeks ago and they arrived few days ago... It was an easy job to do. Tank to autolube pump hose was nice fit with 5mm silicone hose. Autolube pump to carb was nice fit with 3mm hose. But be aware if you bleed whole pump empty, it might not be able to suck oil from tank!!! Be careful when you start the engine!!! I have to squirt oil direct in to the pump and open air screw in order to get the air out from the pump. Here are from photos from that job...
Dissolution:
Pump to carb hose size:
Tank to pump hose:
Pump to carb hose in place:
Tank to pump hose in place:
Ready to ride:
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Santa Claus came early this year
I received TM30 & 230 Lanza air joint in a same day It's a great match with those two! Let's see later how it will fit into DT125R airbox Sadly I don't have any main jets between 150 and 200 range... I've been told that 170 might be right main jet to start from... Also need to drill a hole to the TM30 for oil feed anyway, and don't have that hose nose yet... I'll come later on with pics when I'm installing that... Here are some pictures of todays treasure:Yamaha DT 230 Lanza carburetor -> air box joint:
It a great match together:
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How did this setup workout for you?
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Actually I haven't tried it yet... But it supposed to be a good setup!? Original carb feels a bit out of right setup... It feels rich in mid rev and it won't rev above 8k... top speed is hardly 110km/h. But I have no intention to do anything for it... new carb is only waiting to "step in"
Still waiting for that oil hose nose from ebay... It's taking many weeks from china to europe sometimes... Meanwhile I had to do something... I drilled a 2.5mm hole for oil feed hose nose and tapped M3 threads with a screw drive style handle... M3 is so small and alu so soft that it was an easy to turn...
And it was easy to see how it works when you rev the engine...