DT 125 R '88... New project
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Do I need to change whole engine? is it possible to just change cylinder/piston? Or does 200 have longer stroke (different crank)?
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About a week ago, I bought new project for me
My plan and idea is to keep this as original looking as possible, and maybe try to get museum register for it. That's why I'd like to change exhaust to as original look as possible... maybe gianelli painted black!? Now bike is running quite well, and papers claim it has 17kw... I think I will just ride the next summer, and take it to parts during next winter...here are few photos:
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Thanks
photos will lie, it's not that good looking IRL, but best that i've have seen for some time... there are some scratses in plastics etc...Today, I changed fork boots (progrip, I order them from ebay.co.uk), it was an easy job... Few days ago I changed brake and cluth lever blades, brake was missing the ball on the outer end, and both was wrong color, they should be black and thet ware aluminium-color...
Next step is to find where it's leaking oil... at least 2t oil tank is leaking, If I'm not able to find new hoses I think I will empty the tank and add oil into the gasoline, and forget the original 2t oil supply system...
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Thanks
photos will lie, it's not that good looking IRL, but best that i've have seen for some time... there are some scratses in plastics etc...Today, I changed fork boots (progrip, I order them from ebay.co.uk), it was an easy job... Few days ago I changed brake and cluth lever blades, brake was missing the ball on the outer end, and both was wrong color, they should be black and thet ware aluminium-color...
Next step is to find where it's leaking oil... at least 2t oil tank is leaking, If I'm not able to find new hoses I think I will empty the tank and add oil into the gasoline, and forget the original 2t oil supply system...
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How does the 2t oil hose connect to down end (pump side)? Silicone hose might be best... that tightens well and does not leak so easy than harder hoses...
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Okey you did it that way
Today I struggle with front brake pads... I've seen and changed various brake parts in various vehicles, and never been so hard... I don't know did I do something wrong or am I just stupid
But now it's there... Maybe pad retaining spring wasn't in original shape anymore... I need to take it apart again, cause caliper seals ware so bad condition... Next step is to change rear tyre 
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-New fork boots
-new levers
-new rear tyreRear turning light apears to be loose
New sticer decals, transparent (2t) oil hose and a set of main jets ordered from ebay...
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Few days ago I changed original snorkel to an DT230 Lanza version... Few decals arrived also from ebay... Not changing them now... later... maybe during winter... If I decide to take the bike in parts and do some painting to body and rear swing...
Been sitting in google for hours and days
... searching for something fun:
maybe I will change Gianelli exhaust, Athena 170cc cyl kit and mikuni TM30 carburetor during winter... Those shoud give me more pleasure to ride And still keep original look... Need to work hard to make the money for that -
A little update... Today I fixed front brake... Sealing was worn, and it would be only matter of time, when the brake cylinder would stuck totally... It was already a bit lazy I think... I did it just in time, there ware some corrosion in brake caliper, but I used sand paper and decide that it's still useful... Piston was in excellent condition... Old brake fluid was quite black and shitty... perhaps original and nearly 30 years old? Then caliper rebuild with new sealing and gasket... Tomorrow I have to bleed air away from the system... It looks like I have to use pressured air to force brake fluid into caliper... Brake lever is now doing nothing
Sorry that I was too lazy to take any photos...I found myself from ordering a new carb... Mikuni TM30... and it's on the way already
And earlier I also ordered DT230 Lanza version of carburetor -> air box joint... Lanza item should be direct fit to TM30 carb and maybe some minor modification to the original air box... On the engine side, the diameter difference (VM28 vs TM30) is only 1mm bigger, I assume it will fit to the original intake rubber... TM30 is also 5mm longer, but that shouldn't be any problem...Anyone have idea for right main jet? 160? 170? 180?
Silocone tubes arrived yesterday, I will replace all 2-stroke oil feed tubes from oiltank, to carb...
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Today I changed leaking autolube hoses to a silicone one... I ordered them from ebay many weeks ago and they arrived few days ago... It was an easy job to do. Tank to autolube pump hose was nice fit with 5mm silicone hose. Autolube pump to carb was nice fit with 3mm hose. But be aware if you bleed whole pump empty, it might not be able to suck oil from tank!!! Be careful when you start the engine!!! I have to squirt oil direct in to the pump and open air screw in order to get the air out from the pump. Here are from photos from that job...
Dissolution:
Pump to carb hose size:
Tank to pump hose:
Pump to carb hose in place:
Tank to pump hose in place:
Ready to ride:
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Today I changed leaking autolube hoses to a silicone one... I ordered them from ebay many weeks ago and they arrived few days ago... It was an easy job to do. Tank to autolube pump hose was nice fit with 5mm silicone hose. Autolube pump to carb was nice fit with 3mm hose. But be aware if you bleed whole pump empty, it might not be able to suck oil from tank!!! Be careful when you start the engine!!! I have to squirt oil direct in to the pump and open air screw in order to get the air out from the pump. Here are from photos from that job...
Dissolution:
Pump to carb hose size:
Tank to pump hose:
Pump to carb hose in place:
Tank to pump hose in place:
Ready to ride:
And it was easy to see how it works when you rev the engine...