DT 125 R '88... New project
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wrote on 11 May 2017, 15:08 last edited by
Thanks
photos will lie, it's not that good looking IRL, but best that i've have seen for some time... there are some scratses in plastics etc...Today, I changed fork boots (progrip, I order them from ebay.co.uk), it was an easy job... Few days ago I changed brake and cluth lever blades, brake was missing the ball on the outer end, and both was wrong color, they should be black and thet ware aluminium-color...
Next step is to find where it's leaking oil... at least 2t oil tank is leaking, If I'm not able to find new hoses I think I will empty the tank and add oil into the gasoline, and forget the original 2t oil supply system...
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Thanks
photos will lie, it's not that good looking IRL, but best that i've have seen for some time... there are some scratses in plastics etc...Today, I changed fork boots (progrip, I order them from ebay.co.uk), it was an easy job... Few days ago I changed brake and cluth lever blades, brake was missing the ball on the outer end, and both was wrong color, they should be black and thet ware aluminium-color...
Next step is to find where it's leaking oil... at least 2t oil tank is leaking, If I'm not able to find new hoses I think I will empty the tank and add oil into the gasoline, and forget the original 2t oil supply system...
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wrote on 11 May 2017, 16:06 last edited by
How does the 2t oil hose connect to down end (pump side)? Silicone hose might be best... that tightens well and does not leak so easy than harder hoses...
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How does the 2t oil hose connect to down end (pump side)? Silicone hose might be best... that tightens well and does not leak so easy than harder hoses...
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wrote on 13 May 2017, 08:15 last edited by jgr72
Okey you did it that way
Today I struggle with front brake pads... I've seen and changed various brake parts in various vehicles, and never been so hard... I don't know did I do something wrong or am I just stupid
But now it's there... Maybe pad retaining spring wasn't in original shape anymore... I need to take it apart again, cause caliper seals ware so bad condition... Next step is to change rear tyre 
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wrote on 17 May 2017, 11:29 last edited by
-New fork boots
-new levers
-new rear tyreRear turning light apears to be loose
New sticer decals, transparent (2t) oil hose and a set of main jets ordered from ebay...
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-New fork boots
-new levers
-new rear tyreRear turning light apears to be loose
New sticer decals, transparent (2t) oil hose and a set of main jets ordered from ebay...
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wrote on 17 May 2017, 12:19 last edited by
Yeah that's looking smart.
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wrote on 17 May 2017, 13:07 last edited by
You swapping to new graphics? The current ones you have are awsome!
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wrote on 2 Jun 2017, 17:01 last edited by
Few days ago I changed original snorkel to an DT230 Lanza version... Few decals arrived also from ebay... Not changing them now... later... maybe during winter... If I decide to take the bike in parts and do some painting to body and rear swing...
Been sitting in google for hours and days
... searching for something fun:
maybe I will change Gianelli exhaust, Athena 170cc cyl kit and mikuni TM30 carburetor during winter... Those shoud give me more pleasure to ride And still keep original look... Need to work hard to make the money for that -
wrote on 14 Jun 2017, 18:59 last edited by
A little update... Today I fixed front brake... Sealing was worn, and it would be only matter of time, when the brake cylinder would stuck totally... It was already a bit lazy I think... I did it just in time, there ware some corrosion in brake caliper, but I used sand paper and decide that it's still useful... Piston was in excellent condition... Old brake fluid was quite black and shitty... perhaps original and nearly 30 years old? Then caliper rebuild with new sealing and gasket... Tomorrow I have to bleed air away from the system... It looks like I have to use pressured air to force brake fluid into caliper... Brake lever is now doing nothing
Sorry that I was too lazy to take any photos...I found myself from ordering a new carb... Mikuni TM30... and it's on the way already
And earlier I also ordered DT230 Lanza version of carburetor -> air box joint... Lanza item should be direct fit to TM30 carb and maybe some minor modification to the original air box... On the engine side, the diameter difference (VM28 vs TM30) is only 1mm bigger, I assume it will fit to the original intake rubber... TM30 is also 5mm longer, but that shouldn't be any problem...Anyone have idea for right main jet? 160? 170? 180?
Silocone tubes arrived yesterday, I will replace all 2-stroke oil feed tubes from oiltank, to carb...
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wrote on 16 Jun 2017, 18:02 last edited by
Today I changed leaking autolube hoses to a silicone one... I ordered them from ebay many weeks ago and they arrived few days ago... It was an easy job to do. Tank to autolube pump hose was nice fit with 5mm silicone hose. Autolube pump to carb was nice fit with 3mm hose. But be aware if you bleed whole pump empty, it might not be able to suck oil from tank!!! Be careful when you start the engine!!! I have to squirt oil direct in to the pump and open air screw in order to get the air out from the pump. Here are from photos from that job...
Dissolution:
Pump to carb hose size:
Tank to pump hose:
Pump to carb hose in place:
Tank to pump hose in place:
Ready to ride:
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Today I changed leaking autolube hoses to a silicone one... I ordered them from ebay many weeks ago and they arrived few days ago... It was an easy job to do. Tank to autolube pump hose was nice fit with 5mm silicone hose. Autolube pump to carb was nice fit with 3mm hose. But be aware if you bleed whole pump empty, it might not be able to suck oil from tank!!! Be careful when you start the engine!!! I have to squirt oil direct in to the pump and open air screw in order to get the air out from the pump. Here are from photos from that job...
Dissolution:
Pump to carb hose size:
Tank to pump hose:
Pump to carb hose in place:
Tank to pump hose in place:
Ready to ride:
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wrote on 16 Jun 2017, 18:14 last edited by jgr72
Yeah, actually it was nice to see how the oil travels in pump to carb hose... I had red oil and air in that hose, and it travels with a rythm
And it was easy to see how it works when you rev the engine... -
wrote on 16 Jun 2017, 19:00 last edited by
Very nice, hopefully others can come across this thread if they want to swap their own hoses out for clear ones.
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wrote on 17 Jun 2017, 05:31 last edited by
Thats why I took those photos! Internet is a information source
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wrote on 20 Jun 2017, 14:48 last edited by
Santa Claus came early this year
I received TM30 & 230 Lanza air joint in a same day It's a great match with those two! Let's see later how it will fit into DT125R airbox Sadly I don't have any main jets between 150 and 200 range... I've been told that 170 might be right main jet to start from... Also need to drill a hole to the TM30 for oil feed anyway, and don't have that hose nose yet... I'll come later on with pics when I'm installing that... Here are some pictures of todays treasure:Yamaha DT 230 Lanza carburetor -> air box joint:
It a great match together:
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Santa Claus came early this year
I received TM30 & 230 Lanza air joint in a same day It's a great match with those two! Let's see later how it will fit into DT125R airbox Sadly I don't have any main jets between 150 and 200 range... I've been told that 170 might be right main jet to start from... Also need to drill a hole to the TM30 for oil feed anyway, and don't have that hose nose yet... I'll come later on with pics when I'm installing that... Here are some pictures of todays treasure:Yamaha DT 230 Lanza carburetor -> air box joint:
It a great match together:
