Removing the snorkel affects the jetting, so jet accordingly. It can also decrese the low end a bit, as theres not much velocity through the carb when you whack the throttle open at low speed.
IMO the airbox seems pretty restrictive, so removing the snorkel adds tons of air.
You can be both rich and lean, as in lean in the midrange, and rich on the mainjet, or the other way around.
Dont know if this is the right place...
Anyway, were a few guys maintaining a 3km track, which the landowner let us use.
Today we were out having some fun, after cutting grass and branches, so its ridable once again.
Heres a loop of the track: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlNRxvOw1jA
So, went out riding again.
This time with another Dt125 (with athena 170), wr200, and a girl on a xt550.
All yammies, and all of the burned oil 
Im really lacking behind in the editing part, but theres some descent footage, which I would like to think that most of you can enjoy.
Feel free to comment, subscribe ect.
The video is divided into 3 smaller videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_qHe0tPELqg
For chainsplitting, nothing beats an anglegrinder 
Out having some fun with a friend, this is the first part. Video will follow with hillclimb ect
Skip around a bit, hope you enjoy:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNhouw-UUgk
I've done my own on my xt600, youtube have plenty of guides. Theres not much to it. Just like changing tires and overhauling and engine, its all about technique...
You wont bend a rim by tightening the spokes. You can make it go out of round for sure, but not bend it permanently.
declan is talking abot putting the parts together, and pay for the last steps where its trued. Sounds like a good way to save money. Any good bicycleshop can true the wheels aswell
I use whatever 10w40 im having lying around for my 4-strokes. 
Thanks for keeping the site running, much appreciated! 
I have some china levers on my 1995 dt125r, looks and works really good. Had to slightly tweak one of 'em.
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MX bikes runs way bigger piston to cylinder tolerances last time I compared
34 here, with a pink 125cc.... I dont have a problem either 
Get a new float and floatneedle, should be part of just about any rebuildkit you can find.
I use a angle grinder in the garage, takes a few seconds
The difference is so little that its not an issue in the real world on our bikes. But the theory is correct, and was a much bigger issue back in the day where people would go as big as 6% oil ratio for flattracking and roadracing.
If you do the math: 240 main jet, + 2 percent to compensate for the oil = 244.8 main jet. Temperature makes a bigger difference than that, and I dont see people changing jets several times a day because of that.
Normal, what is normal? Outside temps vary by 20c theese days where im located. You'll have a hard time to reach 70c at the cap in the morning just cruising around, and having a hard time not to exceed 110c at the head in the afternoon on a tight track. Some valid points to where you meassure, temps will read higher in the head, compared to on top of the radiator.
Waterless coolant boils at higher temps, but something like Evans actually remove less heat from the engine, so...whats the point of that? I've never heard of anyone damaging a radiater due to cooling preassure. 1,3 bar isnt normal running pressure, but maximum pressure, before the cap lifts and "bleeds of" the excess. If you're worried, buy a cap with less pressure.
Unless it boils, its fine. Bike is designed to function with 100c or more coolant, otherwise it wouldnt have a 1,3bar cap on. Everyday use should be less of that, ofcourse. But the thermostat isnt even fully open at 80C, come on people...
Unless something is off, its also just about impossible to get detonation in our bikes with super low compression. I've ridden mine on 20% diesel as part of a bet, no issues.
Theres always small exeptions for modified engines, which generate more power and heat, but that goes for any engine.
Blocked fuel = lean = high idle, so yeah.
Whats wrong with the motor? Have you inspected it?
My startermotor for my xt600 got a cleaning and new brushes at around 110.000km, its now at 172.000km, and still working fine.
Verify that the float height is correct
This is mine (no kit though), a bit of deposits from excess oil, but otherwise tan as Hasselhoff!!
