@Calum hi pal iv dun a lot ov work on it with the tuning and its cost me in the long run but I love it it's an 1989 model how do u up lose a pik
I’ll save Cal the time of explaining how to you, I owe him that much at least 😂
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Yea I know, but I have a local shop that’s got all kinds of bearings and oil seals. So I just wanted so see if they had any who fits my engine. Then I don’t have to wait for delivery and etc. But do you know which ones come originally?
I’ve had similar temperamental problems with this (& a 100 other things!!)
The only thing it can be is the needle valve that is operated by the floats (or the floats themselves!)old fuel varnish or dirt is the usual suspect...
You can get a replacement kit I think. The needle and the brass insert it fits into...
A good inspection and clean is usually good enough...
P.S. the ‘weight’ of fuel can exasperate the situation, or it has in my experience (which isn’t much!)...
With the athena kit it's a complete unknown quantity. Only issue I've experienced with running a colder plug ( a10 range on nsr125) was it would foul and cause a missfire when the weather turned cooler.
I was told, time spent fine tuning powervalve timings is worth its weight in gold.
In my opinion, this all depends on the usage.
For road racing, a finely tuned opening wouldn't net huge gains. Since once you are fully opened, you are likely to stay that way. I.E. does the Honda RS125 even have a powervalve? Or is it just chocked wide open.
MX a working powervalve is important, but there is always the gear below? I know people faff around with springs to get that powervalve open earlier/later but often it's just about shifting the timing.
I was told by a local technician at Yamaha that tuning the valves timing will net you decent gains. I was always too lazy to actually do any of this.