Dtx Project Codename Moneypit
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To do it properly you are going to need to realign the whole geometry of the bike.
With the new swingarm you are going to need the YZ brake carrier. Which will need modifiying to either accept your brake, or use the YZ brakes.
Either way the swingarm needs altering to fit between the frame and the engine.
This will cause the sprocket to be out of alignment with the rear sprocket, which is going to to cause undue stress to the gearbox bearings. This will need correcting by either shimming or machining.
You are then going to find the front and rear wheels are no longer in line. So this will need altering to ensure that the front and rear wheels are inline, and the front and rear sprockets are inline.
If you don't then you will find the bike will have a tendency to crab or to cause excessive damage to the gearbox.
This is why my front wheel is off centre from the forks. This was done to ensure the front and rear wheels line up perfectly, whilst maintaining the correct geometry for the front and rear sprockets.
I'm all for the swingarm conversion, but it sounds like you haven't thought this through enough?
If you're going to do, do it right. Is all I'm going to say.
It's just a case of measuring once, twice three times to be sure. This is the reason why I didn't use the alloy swingarm, AFTER I had already done all of this measuring.
I should have done it all at one time and saved myself the effort of measuring twice.
If any of that is unclear I am happy to go into more detail.
Always Originate, Never Pirate!
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To do it properly you are going to need to realign the whole geometry of the bike.
With the new swingarm you are going to need the YZ brake carrier. Which will need modifiying to either accept your brake, or use the YZ brakes.
Either way the swingarm needs altering to fit between the frame and the engine.
This will cause the sprocket to be out of alignment with the rear sprocket, which is going to to cause undue stress to the gearbox bearings. This will need correcting by either shimming or machining.
You are then going to find the front and rear wheels are no longer in line. So this will need altering to ensure that the front and rear wheels are inline, and the front and rear sprockets are inline.
If you don't then you will find the bike will have a tendency to crab or to cause excessive damage to the gearbox.
This is why my front wheel is off centre from the forks. This was done to ensure the front and rear wheels line up perfectly, whilst maintaining the correct geometry for the front and rear sprockets.
I'm all for the swingarm conversion, but it sounds like you haven't thought this through enough?
If you're going to do, do it right. Is all I'm going to say.
It's just a case of measuring once, twice three times to be sure. This is the reason why I didn't use the alloy swingarm, AFTER I had already done all of this measuring.
I should have done it all at one time and saved myself the effort of measuring twice.
If any of that is unclear I am happy to go into more detail.
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I'm keeping the stock arm and swapping the wheel hubs over just to keep the project going ATM. I did like the idea of the yz wheel adjustment on the rear as it looks smarter than the dt 1
DT125R 2000
DRZ400 2006
Golf Mk3 20v Turbo 1996 -
I'm keeping the stock arm and swapping the wheel hubs over just to keep the project going ATM. I did like the idea of the yz wheel adjustment on the rear as it looks smarter than the dt 1
@gareth_iowc are you on supermoto project as well?
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Well I have seen quite a few DTRs with YZ250/WR400 swingarms. Doable.
Custom linkage brackets, fabricated an welded...
Complete YZ/WR rear end,, new chain/ possibly only a 520.
A earlier style YZ/WR shock will only just clear the exhaust, and will need a custom spacer just to fit it into frame shock tower!
This is a proper fabrication job.
This was the very reason a WR200 swingarm was the ONLY choice for me.
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@zrako I'm sticking with off road but I want to use the 19" rear
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Yeah if you wanted to do minimal fabrication then buy a YZ rear end and shock, this would minimise a lot of stuff.
If I had a garage I would happily make these sorts of bits for people. But I am so tight for storage at the moment it simply is not possible!
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Guys , desperately searching internet for the complete set of swingarm bearings , pins , thrust washers , bearings . Heeelp please
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Small update . Engine rebuilt and frame finally came back from powdercoating. Not sure if I love the change but have to deal with it now
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Small update . Engine rebuilt and frame finally came back from powdercoating. Not sure if I love the change but have to deal with it now
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Same frame colour as me. I like it
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The wr200 one if I remember rightly is a direct fit with the correct links.
Dt200r is also aluminium but not as chunky
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Well , building it up slowly and ended up at coolant section so far. Just want to be 100% sure - the hose from radiator that going to expansion tank joins on bottom of tank and the top one is breather hose that ends up under engine? Forgot what way it was before...
1979 Jawa Mustang 50
2003 Gilera DNA 125 R.I.P
2015 Keeway TX 125 SM
2006 Yamaha DT 125 X -
Well , building it up slowly and ended up at coolant section so far. Just want to be 100% sure - the hose from radiator that going to expansion tank joins on bottom of tank and the top one is breather hose that ends up under engine? Forgot what way it was before...
@Zrako If you think about it, it's obvious.
If it fed in through the top it would immediately drip out.
So you feed it in through the bottom, if it feeds in too much the overflow at the top will allow it drip out, usually an indication when the head gasket has failed.
So yes, from the radiator to the bottom of the expansion bottle.
