DT200WR restoration project pic heavy
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@Louis-James Check that the bulbs haven't gone and/or that the loom provides continutity throughout.
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@Calum cheers call, seems a bit of a coincidence that it's both sides
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If the lamps are standard my money is on the relay. Try disconnecting one and see if you get a flash then.
Is the switchgear new?@finnerz89 does a single flash then stats on.. always the small things take the time haha.
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@finnerz89 does a single flash then stats on.. always the small things take the time haha.
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@Louis-James another thought, is the light in the clocks led? Try disconnecting that if it is
@finnerz89 no because I'm only using the new clocks shell. All wires and bulbs I swapped over
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@finnerz89 no because I'm only using the new clocks shell. All wires and bulbs I swapped over
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@finnerz89 thanks
I'll get some more videos outside on a nice day -
@Calum cheers mate.
Just finishing the final parts.
Going to inspect the oil pump drive gear to ensure its all ok as the guy before disconnected it.
The pump leaks from the oil seal. I've stripped, cleaned and ordered a new seal.
Always the last little things like the brake lights sensitivity etc to finish
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Need a bit of advice.
I'm not used to this clutch set up.I only removed the clutch cover to fit a new oil pump gear.
But when I put it back on the Kickstarter wouldn't crank.
After playing around I got that back into action.However there is no tension in the clutch lever.
I'm not sure it the clutch arm needs a full 360deg rotation.
I'm not very familiar with this setup.
The clutch operated fine before and was a new one when I bought the bike.Part 11 in this diagram just wobbles around.. but I'm not sure if it's correct.
https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4098902/wr200r-4bf1-1992-999-a/clutch
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Need a bit of advice.
I'm not used to this clutch set up.I only removed the clutch cover to fit a new oil pump gear.
But when I put it back on the Kickstarter wouldn't crank.
After playing around I got that back into action.However there is no tension in the clutch lever.
I'm not sure it the clutch arm needs a full 360deg rotation.
I'm not very familiar with this setup.
The clutch operated fine before and was a new one when I bought the bike.Part 11 in this diagram just wobbles around.. but I'm not sure if it's correct.
https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4098902/wr200r-4bf1-1992-999-a/clutch
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@NINJA I didn't dismantle anything.
All I did was removed the casing and replaced the oil pump gear.
I didn't touch the clutch.
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@Louis-James Well that's weird, maybe you have just discovered a fault before it ruined all your hard work???
@NINJA I think I need to remove the clutch arm and rotate it. See what I find tomorrow haha
Wish I did it when the engine was out.
The water pipe it the biggest pain to fit. -
I had a similar issue on an old bike, the clutch arm operates like a rack and pinion, the arm being the pinion part. I had to engage it further down the rack to get the full range of movement. It's spring loaded, I hope that makes sense lol.
Current bikes:
DT125X '07
Street Triple R '11
Aprilia ETV1000 '02Previous:
DR650RSE '96
FJ1200 '92 -
I had a similar issue on an old bike, the clutch arm operates like a rack and pinion, the arm being the pinion part. I had to engage it further down the rack to get the full range of movement. It's spring loaded, I hope that makes sense lol.
@finnerz89 it has a stability spring on the arm.
But it should be resisted by the 5 clutch springs.
Thanks yes it is a rack and pinion type
