Yamaha DT125R '01 - Running Project
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wrote on 19 Feb 2016, 20:03 last edited by
I'm liking it!
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wrote on 21 Feb 2016, 15:24 last edited by
Nice work there, liking the fabrication. I have often thought about a dt200r or wr200 swingarm but I spent ages getting the old bearings out of mine and powdercoating it so I left it. So it was a perfect fit you say? Except the dog bones.
Fitting a different carburetor was also a nightmare, especially on a divided throttle cable (I'm running auto lube on my 200cx conversion) I had a tm32 flat side which was very tricky to fit because it isn't angle on the spigots. If you carb isn't level enough it can mess with the floats. I then ran a tmx30 carburetor very similar to the wr200s tm30ss carburetor which ran very nicely and few modifications. And I am currently running a tm34ss which has angled spigots. Which I'd recommend
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Nice work there, liking the fabrication. I have often thought about a dt200r or wr200 swingarm but I spent ages getting the old bearings out of mine and powdercoating it so I left it. So it was a perfect fit you say? Except the dog bones.
Fitting a different carburetor was also a nightmare, especially on a divided throttle cable (I'm running auto lube on my 200cx conversion) I had a tm32 flat side which was very tricky to fit because it isn't angle on the spigots. If you carb isn't level enough it can mess with the floats. I then ran a tmx30 carburetor very similar to the wr200s tm30ss carburetor which ran very nicely and few modifications. And I am currently running a tm34ss which has angled spigots. Which I'd recommend
wrote on 23 Feb 2016, 11:00 last edited by DartyAh cheers boys, @Calum @ConnorDTR there is still so much I need to do. Not enough time!
@Louis-James Yeah, pretty much a perfect fit. I had to turn a spacer on the sprocket side of the swingarm because there is a gap between the bearing end cap and the crankcase, WR200 crankcase must have a wider section across the swingarm bolt.
Fits fine without it, but needs the spacer for the correct lateral torque. But it's a bolt in job and I really recommend it.
Definitely get yourself the WR200 linkage set (Alloy) I need to fit mine then you can potentially run very nice rear dampers from a newer generation. Got a nice TM Ohlins shock, looks to fit.
The TM32 isn't a great fit, I've not run it for long, but it's possible it's already disrupting the floats. But fit for purpose just. Not ideal. Just had a look at some TM34Ss and yeah man, that looks to be a much better idea actually.
Ultimately I think you have got too make a Inlet manifold, I can't fit anything else past the shock without one.
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wrote on 24 Feb 2016, 16:18 last edited by Darty 4 Nov 2017, 21:56
Spring has crept around ol' Coventry today. Blessed. And then some bits finally turned up at lunch time.
POWER.
Most of Yamaha's road going production castings are begging to be cleaned up gone over properly, because the castings make you wince in places. They are cost effective without hand finishing and, of course the time and labour is not necessary for a production run. Not even because it's old, they need some love.
Wrekt...She's a bit of a lemon. Cracked the sleeve to the top above the exhaust port. Still, new sleeve and some light repair work around the port and she's good to go. This will be the test mule for running a larger bore.
Ignitech came through, I should of spec'd a longer loom so I could fit it into the now empty airbox. There isn't much of anywhere with decent access and tucked in.
Looking forward to building up a 200R block.. maaybe some time on that.
Anyone want some money for a WR200 powervalve they somehow don't need? I'm your man.
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wrote on 24 Feb 2016, 18:21 last edited by
So what's the difference with the ignitech CDI and the Zeeltronic? Only just heard of the ignitechs
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wrote on 24 Feb 2016, 21:22 last edited by
Very smart. Nice auxiliary exhaust ports on them too! Should be a beast.
Powervalves are tricky things to come by. I askrd about having one made but they simply wouldn't do it because of cost!
Very frustrating but I am sure you will find one one day!
Easy on how you remove that sleeve. Even companies have been known to damage the ally cylinder removing them.
Will.keep an eye out for updates.
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wrote on 24 Feb 2016, 22:54 last edited by
You can buy new sleeves on eBay, I saw some wiseco ones a few years back. I have the nickasil bore, not sure what models had what
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wrote on 24 Feb 2016, 23:01 last edited by
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Spring has crept around ol' Coventry today. Blessed. And then some bits finally turned up at lunch time.
POWER.
Most of Yamaha's road going production castings are begging to be cleaned up gone over properly, because the castings make you wince in places. They are cost effective without hand finishing and, of course the time and labour is not necessary for a production run. Not even because it's old, they need some love.
Wrekt...She's a bit of a lemon. Cracked the sleeve to the top above the exhaust port. Still, new sleeve and some light repair work around the port and she's good to go. This will be the test mule for running a larger bore.
Ignitech came through, I should of spec'd a longer loom so I could fit it into the now empty airbox. There isn't much of anywhere with decent access and tucked in.
Looking forward to building up a 200R block.. maaybe some time on that.
Anyone want some money for a WR200 powervalve they somehow don't need? I'm your man.
wrote on 3 Mar 2016, 18:35 last edited by@Darty I have a wr200 powervalve spare
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@Darty I have a wr200 powervalve spare
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wrote on 3 Mar 2016, 21:10 last edited by
@Darty I'll get some tomorrow I think it's baggy on the two joining downs but could be filled
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wrote on 4 Mar 2016, 12:33 last edited by
@Dartyhttp://rs1083.pbsrc.com/albums/j388/louisgar/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0861_zpsufktz9sf.jpg?w=480&h=480&fit=clip
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So what's the difference with the ignitech CDI and the Zeeltronic? Only just heard of the ignitechs
wrote on 12 Mar 2016, 13:49 last edited by Darty 3 Dec 2016, 13:59@ConnorDTR The main difference is the interface design and the ZEELYS are bit more intuitive to use I reckon. But I like the software from Ignitech, you can just drag points across your curve and it's easy to fiddle with. For a Single cylinder PV anyway.
Technically wise, Ignitech can prove less accurate and power valve control is not as good to setup as the ZEEL.. coming from some heavy tuners, but for average Joe bloggs, they are on par and the Ignitechs are way cheaper. I spec'd mine all in £115. Get a PC connector somewhere else.
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wrote on 26 Mar 2016, 23:08 last edited by
Moved to Correct Location
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wrote on 31 Mar 2016, 19:16 last edited by Darty 4 Nov 2017, 21:56
My bike is a jumbled up. full UK spec late 3RMJ 2000/01' model. It's on a 03' plate and I think it was a demonstrator bike when new at a dealership, somewhere unknown unfortunately as I bought it with no history..
This is well geeky, but I never ever see any DT's with imperial clocks? They are always Metric & Imperial, or just Metric. I don't want to know why.
And yes before my Speedo drive snapped, my chassis components at least have covered over 27,000 miles. Not bad, I've seen clocks over 40,000 miles on older 3DB1 bikes.. Yikes.
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Mines just imperial
wrote on 31 Mar 2016, 21:36 last edited by@Louis-James Just checked mine was both.
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wrote on 13 Apr 2016, 21:22 last edited by Darty 4 Nov 2017, 23:14
Had to get out the shed today,
Rebuilt my 3RM02' - TM28SS, polished internals and re-jetted with the Ignitech ignition.
Fitting a Modified 1991'-93' KX125 throttle cable.
She's no looker, the body needs to be blasted, but inside she is minty.
Had a play and uploaded a new Ignition Map and it works well, Noticeable increase in torque low down and a big! improvement between 6-10k. + the 13t/51 setup keeps the power in. I'm having more fun squirting out of corners and sliding the back around in the revs. I don't think shes good for more than 70 flat out, it gets there quicker and that is the fun bit on any bike for me.
Mugged off a bandit 600 in a little uphill race, the dude was definitely surprised. I HATE the Suzuki Bandit. Just do.
Excellent upgrade. I like that the unit was labeled for me.
WR setup on the rear is definitely more rigid and thus more responsive, the back comes out progressively with a lower ride height, and the steering is slower upfront of course, Raising the rear another 1.5 cm should make this a little ninja!
The rear is a new bike, the YZ damper is so nice on Cotswold roads, if you can call them roads, A shock rebuild one day, but it's all just right as is.
So, now the Front end feels rubbish, A YZ Nissin caliper, TDR 320mm Disc and YZ125 - 3JD Fork legs on the shopping list.
Current Jetting:
280 Main
35 Pilot
Needle 5J25 - 5th grove from top.
6mm Reed Block spacer
Pipe Cross Airfilter
Drilled Airbox/w Snorkel in.3MB00 Barrel - 3BN Cylinder head - Standard Bore.
It's nippy, but would be destroyed by an RS/MX/SX Rotax.
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wrote on 13 Apr 2016, 21:56 last edited by
looks really nice what you have done top marks
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wrote on 13 Apr 2016, 22:26 last edited by
Bikes looking fantastic!
