RD and DT LC are the same block, but gear ratios differ. RD has a close ratio gearbox and DT has a wide ratio. Close ratio is not ideal if you want to go offroad IMO. Primary drive with clutch and 'middle shaft' length differs in the the LC engines I compared. Definitely get a LC YPVS engine if you go that route, -more usable power than without power valve. I have a DT LC YPVS close to stock, I reshaped the head and installed a Zeeltronic and put in 0,3mm carbon reed petals, the rest is stock. Goes well and has really good midrange torque for a 125. I think the DTR and TZR engines are the same block too, but there is probably the same gear ratio difference, and possibly more I have not tried dropping in a DTR engine in a LC frame (have only one DTR engine and many LC's), but have thought about it. Let us know if you try it!

I work with an old boy an he says he had a wrangler dt when he was young Not sure if it was dtr or dt which I had asked more questions

@Stevie-Wonder Saw this on Facebook, well done buddy Those Diversions are great bikes, back in the day they had a reputation for being reliable and doing everything well.

Normally, they just add a throttle stop to restrict the bike, so you can only open it 3/4s of the way. This is what a lot of the test centers do as it's easy then to unlock the bike to full power afterwards.

Yeah, I hear that the bargains at Lidl get great reviews.

Sad times You still doing this on your sisters drive?

No pics yet been busy though got a new motor for it managed to get it all in and running but got a strange problem ive put an orig air box on it and it wont idle I have to turn the air screw all the way in otherwise it takes a little time to down rev but then if I turn the screw to the 1 5/8s its supposed to be at or any where from seated its bogs out when you rev and has erratic idle takes ages to settle and cant decide what it wants to do even with 4 or 5 screws of the idle screw in out out it doesnt make much difference to idle speed. So I am a bit stumped other than changing the coil pack and cdi as it went through plugs before and is now still doing something similar was fine on an 8 then it decided it didnt like that plug stalled and refused to start then did the same with another 8 I found a 7 and it starts and goes like stink when riding did 30mph up my steep hill testing it but its got that idle prob. So i'm going to get some new plugs try and get funds for a coil and cdi maybe a new regulator as the voltage its a lil strange charges about 13.3 on idle to start off then after a few mins only sits at around 12.5 unless you rev crap out of it it will then go to 14.4 All fun and games any ideas welcome for me to test next time I get out to it would be appreciated. Trying to be careful and cycle it with the new piston so it beds in ok already got a strange rattle not sure if its just a bad bore settling in or a loose bit of old piston ring dancing around the crank but its whats going on with me and this lil ped for now thought ide send a quick update n ask a few questions from you seasoned vets.

Oh nice! Have you got any photos?

@primal-carnage Bud, no offence meant but just search ‘aftermarket dtr125 kickstart’ in the web. No idea what you like or would suit your bike… Unless you have some pics …

Thanks guys, i think i will try get a road helmet for my cbt and use my old lazer for the dt until i buy a new one, didnt realise you could get them, as cheap as 30 new. many thanks.

@Rxvert2k-0 Hello Yes lots more updates. I've taken photos, but I am awaiting a good point at which to update this thread. I've bought: A bunch of Aprilia RX125 parts (better spec than ETX) Aluminium Swinging Arm Gas Shock Absorber Rear Brake Pedal New Bearings Linkage Rerefreshed Dual Radiator Setup Arrow Expansion Chamber (A lot lighter than stock) Polini 160 Big Bore Kit Italkit Pneumatic Powervalve Dellorto VHST Flatslide Carb Lightweight Clutch Pressure Plate I just dropped the frame off for powdercoating last week. Engines out for an overhaul All new bearings and bushes New Old Stock Genuine Fairings New Old Stock Genuine Graphics Kit I wanted to update this thread when I had it in a viewable position. There is lots to update on, but I want to get it in a more showable position before I blog about it.

@HOTSHOT-III Yeah absolutely! I just like his appreciation for classic bikes.

@SpookDog Usually 2-3 days plus customs, and maybe another 2-3 days depending on the carrier and if it’s a Friday when it lands. I’ve been tracking my bit of Japanese exotica for the past week and waiting for customs clearance, not like an impatient parent at all

@joshua-1990 Yep, that's the one I've used in the past

How much did the new cable cost?...

I remember reading an article in superbike magazine about oils in the uk some years back and basically they said most of the oils sold in the uk are manufactured and refined in the same place, by the same company that owns or trades under the Fuchs Silkoline banner. I know not all oils are the same and it’s down to cost and personal choice. But I still love the smell of Castrol R and Shell advance Karting oil comes a close second.

@UngeMan Also worth getting some Bark Busters or similar wraparound handguards as they protect levers/master cylinders as well.

@Stevie-Wonder said in 200cc crankcase conversion: @Calum said in 200cc crankcase conversion: @Stevie-Wonder Pretty sure he documented it all on this website... Ye I know @Calum I’ve re-reading it but all the photos are now gone @Challenger I’ve got a v force blaster 200 Reed cage that should help right ? And thanks @scrimsmustang! If I’d been known it was simple earlier I think I’d have already done it Excusing the powervalve blade itself do you need the WR’s Servo motor, pulleys and housing etc And I presume you need either a 200cdi or a Zeely/Ignitech programmable ignition too No you can use a 125 servo and a 125 CDI with no problems at all

@Stevie-Wonder yes very good magazine. As is practical sports bikes.

@oldman any updates on the TDR 250? Looking forward to seeing it.