Kick stand kill switch

[NINJA]

@spanners Check the connectors for any corrosion, then check all wires too and from those connectors for corrosion or bare wire. As that will cause the circuit to short out and activate the kill switch.

[Spanners]

@declan
Hi Declan
Thanks for the advice, and yes that’s what a was saying.
If you see in the picture, the Blue connector is what the kill switch plugs into.
I don’t actually have a kill switch, so l can jump the wires past the female connector.
Surely the CDI can’t be that intelligent where it requires a certain resistance?

[Calum]

I'd have to check the wiring diagram. But it's not doing anything clever.

[Spanners]

@ninja
Thanks Ninja!
I think that is the best step, checking all the associated wires for wear.
Next thing is maybe buying a clucking kill switch! Ha-ha!

[NINJA]

@spanners I'd check all the wires first dude, normally the kill switch is just an open or close switch, pretty much the same as a regular wall light switch. If the wiring is sound then you know it's a faulty switch and vice versa!!!

[finnerz89]

Doesn't the sidestand switch earth through the frame? Pretty sure mine only has 1 wire going to it, connect that to the frame somewhere and that should sort it

[Spanners]

@finnerz89
Thank you for the advice, l will have a go later!

[Calum]

@finnerz89 This was my thoughts exactly, but wasn't sure enough to post it.

[Spanners]

@finnerz89
So I’ve just been on YouTube and l think now l should take the two wires and connect them then ground them both to the frame.
I believe this is to stop the rectifier over heating.
Does this sound about right?

[finnerz89]

@spanners that's a new one on me lol. You should only need to ground one of them

[Calum]

I'd just get the side stand switch fitted.

Is there any reason why you don't want one.

My Aprilia didn't have one, it had a suicide stand. And on one occasion it didn't retract. I remember riding it for a few miles with the stand semi-down. And when I came round a bend, it chipped the floor nearly writing me off.

It's a good lesson, I would always have one fitted given the choice.

[Spanners]

@calum
Well to buy a new one is around £60, considering to bike never had one and they seemed quite annoying if they fail l figured l would just over ride it.
But I’ve had a word with the lads at GB Breakers and they have one for a decent price.
Also l can’t figure out how to do it! Ha-ha!
Will l ever get to ride the DT l have built......

[Calum]

@spanners Hhm, never had one fail on me personally.

[dan28]

I thought you cut the plug off then joined both wires together

[Spanners]

@dan28 l have tried that Dan, it doesn’t work.
Strangely it works a little bit, but as you go up the revs in cuts out.
It plays with you a little bit, then leaves you to do the walk of shame back to your house whilst it laughs behind your back.
Maybe I’ve dramatised that a little.....ha-ha!

[dan28]

@spanners
Did u cut the plug off an join the wires
Or are the plugs still there an u have joined the wire were it comes out the plug

[Spanners]

@dan28 If you see the picture on the first post, all l have is the female end of where the kill switch plugs in.
I have never had a kill switch on the bike so l have nothing to figure it out from.
As said l jumped the two pins inside the connector, in theory completing the circuit.
Unfortunately this hasn’t solved the problem.
As said, any advice is greatly received!

[finnerz89]

@Spanners what year is your bike? I've got the wiring diagrams sat here in front of me

[Spanners]

@finnerz89 Sorry for late reply. The bike is a X reg, 1999-2000.

[dan28]

I m no expert but I reckon the plug is the problem chop it of an join both wires
The connectors inside the plug could be corroded as you said it does work but cuts out at higher revs