@spookdog said in Crankcase Sealant; What's Everyone Using?:

Blue Hylomar

This was what was recommended to me and did nothing but leak. I've used it on several components and never had success. As I say, the bond stuff seems to be the goto kiddy everyone is using these days. I recently redone my DT engine with the Hondabond and it hasn't had a drop since.

@calum Yes I agree, running JASO FD spec Silkolene Comp2 Plus o I think it will be OK

@spookdog Just get a Lectron carb and there is only the main jet to worry about 🤣

Yeah I seriously don't know.

My answer is, jetting should be done accordingly.

@ninja yeah I did see that.

@calum hahaha fucking hell, i swear everything rotten from the 80’s/90’s era has been worth more then the scrap value of gold recently (looks to everything old school Ford/Vauxhall). Hell these days you could piss on a tire leave your machine outside for a month Chuck it back in the garage for a couple weeks with a tarpaulin over her then charge £5000 extra because it’s now a “barn find”

@waale2004
Check your plug colour. I’m guessing you are running rich with a wet black plug. Cause at 50:1 all your oil is being burnt/used. It can only be excess fuel...

@calum said in Messed up on my build need radiator advice:

@dan28 And the filler side is a lot thicker.

If it's thicker that's good it has a thicker core so will cool it better

@calum

I’m gonna have to check it out. My brand new Athena gasket, correctly torqued down, blew again ☹️ Did about 100miles. Weird thing is that the bike ran the best ever after it let go. Crisp rev definition, no bogging down. I’m gonna have to compression test the engine next time. What range is good/normal!?

@spookdog I always use Silkolene products, their Comp 2 plus is excellent oil. I also use their grease, coolants and gearbox oil. They are all excellent lubricants and are the go to brand for me.

Hey
I’m looking to get the bike up and running again for the summer and I’m wondering if anyone is selling a cylinder for a 2005 Dt125. Ideally with piston and pv, all good to go.
Thanks guys
Oisín

@forgotten just google dowel pins and see what comes up.

@perky there are two types be careful, one has a round splitter box and one is oblong that is the later one, the problem arises when the oil pump cable goes into the housing and you try to fit the retaining clip and it’s the wrong length.

@spookdog
I have no idea how it would have got broke, my only idea was a previous owner thought they new what they was doing trying to adjust it lol All the pre servo powervalve covers seem to have the pin I had a nightmare finding one NOS as the part numbers changed multiple times but turned out they all superseded each other and were the same. Will post a pic of the broken one the weekend hope this all helped tho as it was driving me insane, I was convinced it was carb problems or that my air box was blocked or something as it randomly started after a very muddy day in the woods .

@calum perfect cheers didn’t think it would be that simple 👍

@llldennis I think the engine is suitable reliably without needing ceramic bearings.

The main thing to wear are the piston rings and and wall etc.

@ninja I always went with Tsubaki Chains (Jap 🇯🇵 )
https://www.bandcexpress.co.uk/pages/news/latest-news-and-offers/tsubaki-chain---in-all-sizes.htm

@spookdog said in fitting later engine cases to older engine:

@dan28
I didn’t know that there was a plastic side case, but if it has the same pumps it should be ok. I’d keep my original oil pump if it’s good. Just cause it’s calibrated right.

89 cases are plastic the later cases are alloy
The oil pumps have a different part number not sure about water pump.

Carry a plug spanner and the next time it happens shut off the fuel and remove the plug, then kick it over ten/ twenty times to clear it. If it starts ok let us know...
Also try putting the old plug back in, could be a defect...
I’d give the reeds an eyeball as well, just to check they’re closed...