@HannesDTX Check all the things @calum said, plus are you sure you've done a FULL carb clean? A lot of people just put them in an ultrasonic cleaner for half an hour and expect to bolt them back on. Doing this doesn't sort the blocked emulsion tube which is a leading cause of DTRs refusing to rev out beyond 6000rpm, precisely the symptoms your bike has. Do a full carb clean including the emulsion tube (the brass tube the main jet screws into). A lot of people (including bike shops) miss this and don't realise it comes out because you have to screw the main jet back in without the brass washer and tap it gently to remove it from the carb body. The space between this and the carb body gets blocked with moisture, dirt etc and blocks more and more holes in the tube (which is how the air atomises the fuel) until it just starts fourstroking and won't rev out one day as this controls the mid-throttle fuelling. Just chucking it in an ultrasonic cleaner usually isn’t enough; you have to actually remove everything from the carb body, physically make sure all the jets and air passages are clear, then reassemble. Make sure the air supply to the emulsion tube is clear as well, it's the small brass tube on the right of the carb body just in front of the carb-to-airbox rubber. You should be able to blow through it, but only just.

@DTGREENLANER Nice job, that looks ace!!

@Calum so i got it together it ran well when i started it in the garage but when i went for a ride when riding it doesnt have power and doesnt rev over 7k rpm when in neutral doesnt go over 9k but powervalve is working and no weird noises from the engine im completly clueless

Sorry for late reply Thank you We carefully took it apart and greased it back up and running nice now, the bike is so much more responsive and acceleration is a lot better

Hi @yennie , That's cool and I am glad you've managed to get something working for your setup. I am working on something similar to just add a slight angle to the inlet manifold so pod filters don't foul the shock absorber.

@vtrtomuk Yeah, just have to enjoy it for what it is sadly. I have had mine ported and got lots of supporting mods to boot. It goes alright, but my Aprilia decimates it completely. Still nice bike to have and you can get some improvements out of it.

Clutch can make noises too, for example if the rubbers between the gear and clutch cage have gone bad. Check the play if you remove the cover.

I can recommend one smelling of strawberries: https://www.ipone.com/en/eshop/product/r2000

If you look at the coolant reservoir at the rear, you will notice that it has a hose going to the frame. I take that to mean that the coolant is routed via the frame tubes. Pipes. There is no hint of an explanation in the workshop manual, though. Perhaps you have a crack in the frame?

Got it, thanks for your help everyone. Was planning to have a go but then had an episode and ended up in hospital. Now I'm back in the game.

@Calum I hope you can find some time for that. It must indeed ride great with all those mods

Yeah, I used a Honda CR85 Apico one on mine. I though the YZ 125 ones didn't fit.

Not familiar with a 1994 DT175 (I presume this is from the Asia (Far East) market). The oil light will just be for the two stroke. There are no sensors that do gearbox, the most you get is a Neutral Light sensor (if you're lucky). For the gearbox oil, the only sensors you see are with your eye balls and the oil sight glass. I can't 100% say this is the case, but I say it with high confidence that this will be the case. Hopefully that's useful. Calum

Cheers @beng1968 . I must admit, I bought 2 more Athena kits sometime after this post was made and can't concur with the opinions here. The casting was spot on and it was very good value for money. Considering it comes with everything you'd need to bolt it onto your engine, I'd say it's good value. I will agree it's not YZ rip roaring performance from stock, and considering the extent of tuning on my DTR, it's still nothing compared to a stock Aprilia RS 125. However, it's not without its merits. The extra CCs give a nice broader range of power, which as I've gotten older I've come to appreciate more (I'm no longer 75kgs wet ). I did take my cylinder to Mick Abbey for further porting and there is still more porting work that I need to do on my setup. It should be a decent bit of kit, when setup properly. The first experience I had was when I loaned my brothers 2001 DTR back in 2010, he'd fitted the Athena kit amongst various other mods, and that went very well. At the time, I went all in on a ported 3MB00P cylinder from the TZR Belgarda and that setup definitely served me well. I haven't been on my DTR for several years now and I am eager to fire it up again to rejudge my opinion.

No you don't need to open up the engine all the way. It's just a push rod system, if the clutch cam isn't engaging with the push rod then it might be because the push rod has fallen beneath the cam arm so you're not able to position the cam behind the push rod. I've never had this happen to me personally, I don't recall this being an issue, but the design is very simple so there is very little to go wrong. What commonly happens is that the ball bearing inside the engine can get misplaced, which presents itself in a similar manner as you're describing. But this is not possible without dismantling the engine. In essence what you have can be pictured as below: |_._ The | is the cam that you slot from the top of the engine. When the cable is pulled, it twists the cam which acts on the first pushrod denoted here by _. This is space separated with a ball bearing, denoted by . which pushes a further push rod denoted by _. What might be possible is that you've ended up in situation where you've pulled the cam out and now the setup is like: | _._ The cam is now resting on top of the push rod and is no longer engaged with it. So when you pull the lever, nothing happens. I can't remember whether this is even possible, but if it is then you'll notice the cam is sitting a lot higher outside the engine and would be obvious. I am not sure if the pushrods are under load, but if they're not, then leaning the bike over towards the clutch may cause the rods/ball to move allowing the cam to be lowered appropriately. If that doesn't work, then no it's not a full dismantlement. It's just a case of taking the clutch cover off, and taking the clutch pressure plate off to expose the push rods. Extracting them (by leaning the bike over careful not to misplace the ball bearing) and then inserting the cam in first. BUT I REALLY don't think that's what is happening here. It's probably more likely that the clutch just needs adjusting. I'd recommend referring to the Haynes manual for this.

I’ve had someone listen to it as in person is obviously way better then a compressed video and think it may be the piston rings

Yeah it's worth checking that first. I haven't done a set of DT cases for a while, I've never done 200 cases.

Less is more then cheers guys. It’s the reason I used hylomar red before, it’s easy to apply thin and evenly… I’ll get out the black mechanic gloves and dab on some RTV…