The Leviathan Project
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Shit hot when ours should have a stand together at a show
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@CYBER-NINJA It's a fresh engine, so that'll be the oil used on assembly.
@Mightyman Nah not yet. There is still a fair amount of work to be done. But it's nice that it's all back up together and can be started. -
Just interested. I read you doubted the porting on the cylinder right? But it turned out to be good? Do you remember what it cost?
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@irongamer727 I doubted the porting on the 3MB00P barrel. The porting by Mick Abbey is pucker. You want to get the head and barrel done together. 130 for the barrel 30 for the head.
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@irongamer727 I just asked for more mid range power and to be more like an mx bike. You are always going to have to appreciate that reliability will take a hit. But the key is maintenance. And no, I don't think. It has caused any issues. Barrel has been ported for 4 years. Rode it daily door two years haven't been on the bike for the last two years but its there ready and waiting.
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@irongamer727 The issue is, it's not just the fueling you need to consider.
The standard DTRE ignition curve cannot make use of the new power, you need an aftermarket ignition system to go with it. Furthermore, you want to get the barrel ported with an exhaust in mind so that the new setup can make use of the exhausts harmonics. To top it off, you need to modify your fueling to compensate the better flow. Throw in the air intake for good measure, means it will cost you more than you think.
Even with the Athena kit you would want supporting mods.
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@irongamer727 Well that's tuning for you. You can't expect to modify something and for everything else to just accept it. You need to modify each component separately.
My advice is always, get an aftermarket ignition system. It's the one thing you can buy that will result in decent power gains without any other mods. This is because you are just removing the restrictions placed in by Yamaha. Coupled with a slightly more aggressive ignition (just enough to not cause detonation).
Then when you want a more aggressive map, bump up the carburettor, richen the mixture, and advance the ignition for more power. Throw in a pipe next and adjust the map to suit. Then do the porting last with all the rest of the supporting mods. Perhaps richen the mixture as appropriate and alter the map slightly. That's the order I'd do it in.
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Tuning/racing is expensive, and its hard to stop once you start, as everything is connected, just like Calum is explaining.
But its also pretty hard to do right. Some people have spent a fortune without getting anywhere, or ended up with a bike with a 200rpm powerband, or just no low end powerAfter you've removed all the stock restrictions, you have to start spending money. A new aftermarked expantionchamber can really help with the low end, and makes it more ridable when you get in to the gnarly stuff offroad.
I havent seen many weight loss threads, there should be plenty of "meat" to remove from this bike. Lossing 5-10kg from the bike would be great. Removing the clocks and the huge light would help with a lot of weight up high on the bike. Replace it with an enduro light mask and an universal speedometer like trailtech vapor.
Replacing the battery with a capacitor is just about free aswell.Also, servicing or upgrading the suspention is overlooked almost everytime.
Tuning isnt just about getting more hp. Its about making the bike handle better , and making it more rideable aswell.Sorry if that got at little off topic.
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@jens-eskildsen Weight is probably one of the better modifications you can do. It's "free", it increases performance everywhere (straight lines, corners etc) and reduces strain on the engine.
For my current build, weight is going to be key, unfortunately the bike is already pretty light and it's the fat sack of shit sitting on it that needs to lose weight LMAO! So I'm on a diet just as my bike is. The difference is totally measurable.