@gary76 i do have the meter but i dont really know how to use it could u help?

You’ll need a full electrical circuit and a battery to run YVPS as its intended but I’m sure there will be a workaround

Just had a heads up from Borut this morning he did apologise for not letting me know on recent emails that there is probably a 6 week waiting list from order date

@HOTSHOT III Yes bud I keep checking I’m really hoping that they don’t let me down the bikes all rebuilt and looking gorgeous just waiting on the zeeltronic had the choice to refurbish the original one when it got tested probably should of took the cheaper option lol

Replacement

I have tried another CDI still no luck. No servo cycle and no spark. I have tried three different stators and same result. Because the replacement bits I .trying are second hand I have now way of knowing if they are ok. Is there a way to work through the bots one by one. For example can I connect the servo to the battery somehow to see if it works? I can turn it by hand so it's not seized. I don't understand why servo and coil not working. Please help.

@Calum I remember you having a Li-ion bonfire but the thing I’m most interested in is the old AC/DC bikes that have three coils on the stator. The ignition coil is horizontal on the top of the stator. The lighting and charging coils are at a V at the bottom of the stator. I don’t claim to understand it but the lighting & charging coils are both numbered the same in the Haynes manual and seem to be connected, unlike the ignition coil which seems to be more isolated. It would seem to have something to do with my investigation into why my headlight dims badly (when I have a FUBAR battery) when I use the brake lights, horn or indicators. I’m hoping that the short life of my battery’s is down to the Reg/Rec being of the oriental OEM variety that’s always been on the bike since I got it. Like the lighting coil being burnt out. It’s the last gremlin on the bike since I got it as a basket case back when the pandemic started. Unfortunately my multi metre chose this time to die, just when I want to check the coils…. The later DC only bikes (anything with more than 3coils) don’t apply to me, unfortunately ….

https://www.devmoto.com/devmoto-solutions-electriques/materiel-electrique/boitiers-dallumage-cdi-ou-tci/boitiers-prets-a-brancher/yamaha-dtr-125/

If the cabling is not messed up the main light runs directly from the stator, doesn't load the battery.

@mbmO8 Nice to hear bud, enjoy

The engine stops when the connection is made, ignition is earthed. I don’t understand what your problem is? If you disconnect the kill switch the bike will still run… If you disconnect the ignition key block connector the bike will run but have no lights… Just fit the button and try it…

Taking the powervalve apart is pretty easy, you’d be surprised how gummed up it can get too. Always worth checking that out

@Vcelicka Gonna have to check your wiring behind the headlight …

@SpookDog OK, thanks!

@watersbarry20 What year bike is it? Is it numbers matching? Do you have an electrical wire running from the clutch lever?… First three number and letters of the engine and frame?…

The ignition on these is 'Capacitor Discharge Ignition'/'CDI', they charge a capacitor from the stator up to a fairly high voltage, then when triggered by the seperate trigger coil, dump it into the primary winding of a fairly low resistance ignition coil. The generator/stator coil for charging the capacitor, shouldn't burn out from a faulty/low primary winding resistance ignition coil as it doesn't directly feed it. There's a possibility the internal capacitor is faulty in which case that's usually a new CDI needed, or as the post above suggests, it could be a wiring problem/short circuit to earth in the wiring from that generator source coil to the CDI unit.

@Calum Yeah, I just skimmed through it. I wouldn’t touch it with a shitty stick! I’m embarrassed to admit that I sometimes forget what gear I’m in, not often! But trying to pull away from the traffic lights in 3rd is not a good look … It always seems to end up the time it won’t go back down into first, I end up rocking the fuxor backwards and forwards to try and get it to snick into gear!

@Calum said in DIGITAL speedo: @Mattey No onboard storage on the Vapor (2010) models that is, so when the backup battery goes (only lasts 2-3 years as the display is always on) you lose all mileage. Ultimately they're designed for enduro use where you only really care about rebuild-rebuild mileage. Consequently my DTR reads zero miles everytime I power it up. Interesting,I have VaporX on my DT but keeps the milage when changing the battery,it was bought around 2010 or 2011,maybe older batch? Even with factory reset didn't loose the odometer kilometers.