The ignition on these is 'Capacitor Discharge Ignition'/'CDI', they charge a capacitor from the stator up to a fairly high voltage, then when triggered by the seperate trigger coil, dump it into the primary winding of a fairly low resistance ignition coil. The generator/stator coil for charging the capacitor, shouldn't burn out from a faulty/low primary winding resistance ignition coil as it doesn't directly feed it. There's a possibility the internal capacitor is faulty in which case that's usually a new CDI needed, or as the post above suggests, it could be a wiring problem/short circuit to earth in the wiring from that generator source coil to the CDI unit.

@Calum Yeah, I just skimmed through it. I wouldn’t touch it with a shitty stick! I’m embarrassed to admit that I sometimes forget what gear I’m in, not often! But trying to pull away from the traffic lights in 3rd is not a good look … It always seems to end up the time it won’t go back down into first, I end up rocking the fuxor backwards and forwards to try and get it to snick into gear!

@Calum said in DIGITAL speedo: @Mattey No onboard storage on the Vapor (2010) models that is, so when the backup battery goes (only lasts 2-3 years as the display is always on) you lose all mileage. Ultimately they're designed for enduro use where you only really care about rebuild-rebuild mileage. Consequently my DTR reads zero miles everytime I power it up. Interesting,I have VaporX on my DT but keeps the milage when changing the battery,it was bought around 2010 or 2011,maybe older batch? Even with factory reset didn't loose the odometer kilometers.

Thanks alot

The connectors had to be chopped off most of it has been moved / altered Battery is under seat as is regulator flasher relay an cdi Ignition is mounted under the seat coming out of the side of the frame so there's not much original wiring left All the wiring is hidden it goes from the rear light behind the mudguard under the seat along a tube on the frame an splits off left an right and goes into the headlight or through the bars to switchgear etc I actually bought some terminal keys to depin the connectors I noticed today the reason I ve got in a muddle with it is because the damaged loom I ve unravelled an mapped out on a board this loom is different to the one fitted to.the bike So here's where I m up to Blue from ignition is used to illuminate clocks is no longer needed 2 pin plug from cdi dark blue wire an light blue / white This blue / white is neutral.light I need to investigate were the other blue goes an also find the wires for oil sender

@SpookDog Sorry late reply, only got round to putting new plug on the other day but yeah no worries man Replacement plug worked nicely. I replaced the regulator/rec and starter solenoid with oem parts as well and started lovely off the button. No more clicking from the starter solenoid or dodgy aftermarket rectifier going up in smoke Cheers

@SpookDog Yes thank you, I thought the colours should match just when I got it they didn’t but still ran just making sure it’s all right

The 4DL cdi came,connected,resolved the neutral issue with the one less cable. Fired up and.....be continued to the other topic

My RE lights would run regardless of engine running, until I swapped out the Zeeltronic.

@SpookDog this might be it i'll have a llok at it bc after that start the bike won't start again like that if i dont let i rest some minutes

I started working on it [image: 1680556986350-phpzzkk9hpm.jpg]

@HOTSHOT-III thanks, I already emailed them, they say I can easily convert it to a 5 wire, was only asking because all the people here talking about a zeeltronic had a newer dtr than mine with a worse cdi, but if zeeltronic is better I will order one.

@Calum what would be considered high temperature on one of those?

@Calum Good info A brand that you know that has compatibility and works!… It’s always better to learn from other peoples mistakes than your own, I recon …

@DTR-NSR I haven’t gotten my head around it yet but that was my impression…

@Scootjockey said in DT125r in a Kart: @Markk I wouldnt bother with the DT motor unless you really feel the need, they are better lighter smaller kart motors available for the job. It would be a chew on setting the chassis up with the gear box drive position then your looking at seating position exhaust gearing brakes etc etc. Having taken my son Karting from an early age and spending thousands on bambino and cadet class and that was just for fun at weekends not going down the racing route, The 125 is a different league and bigger financial pockets are required. It’s a nice thought but unless you're chassis builder and have access to a workshop I just wouldn’t go there. But if you want to do something original as a gimmick which you’ll never get an MOT for and the Feds would crucify you if they caught you on anything that looks remotely dodgy. I’d just leave well alone IMO. Thanks for the reply, karts built, we do have a workshop/fab shop etc. The karts just a toy for my son who learns by building them. This one is a different beast and has defo been a challenge. We have done a few test days, indoor and outdoor and now we are just ironing out the niggles like YPVS not working above. Does the CDI regulate/rectify the generator output itself?

Did you resolve this issue a while back?

@HOTSHOT-III Damn, I was kinda hoping it was just me. Then it’d be fixable! I brought a rectifier for a later yam cause I thought mine looked like a fleabay job replacement. The connector block is slightly melted on the loom side, so I thought the old original one had suffered a meltdown!... I’ve had a few different bulbs and I think they all do the dim, at least the halogen ones. It was just more noticeable when I had an Osram night breaker fitted! Can be bloody scary & dangerous sometimes when it dims while the oncoming dipshit with the HID bulbs is dazzling you with high beams! 🤨 I wish I understood electrics better than I don’t 🤪