So Close!...
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@spookdog @spookdog a heat seizure is caused by the piston expanding to much/fast. From a lean mixture burning to hot. The piston basically becomes to big for the bore it's running in, and seizes. The fuel in a richer mixture actually takes heat from the piston crown. Lean mixture is backed up by the detonation you've seen on your piston.
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wrote on 5 Aug 2021, 16:37 last edited by SpookDog 8 May 2021, 17:38
No one used this kinda gasket?
Given my experiences recently I’m wary of fitting it even though it’s new & Athena... -
No one used this kinda gasket?
Given my experiences recently I’m wary of fitting it even though it’s new & Athena... -
wrote on 29 Aug 2021, 15:50 last edited by SpookDog
Took me a while but I got a rebore and new piston. Almost got it back together.
I ended up getting another gasket, single layer usual thing. I just didn’t trust the triple ply one held together with brass rivets! A single bit of crap between one of the layers would be fatal. Theyre fairly loose but uncleanable on the 4 inner surfaces!...
I’d love to know why Athena makes it... -
Took me a while but I got a rebore and new piston. Almost got it back together.
I ended up getting another gasket, single layer usual thing. I just didn’t trust the triple ply one held together with brass rivets! A single bit of crap between one of the layers would be fatal. Theyre fairly loose but uncleanable on the 4 inner surfaces!...
I’d love to know why Athena makes it... -
Took me a while but I got a rebore and new piston. Almost got it back together.
I ended up getting another gasket, single layer usual thing. I just didn’t trust the triple ply one held together with brass rivets! A single bit of crap between one of the layers would be fatal. Theyre fairly loose but uncleanable on the 4 inner surfaces!...
I’d love to know why Athena makes it... -
@spookdog I think you are overthinking the headgasket a bit mate athena make some of the best non oem gaskets and seals
wrote on 29 Aug 2021, 17:38 last edited by@
I know they make good gaskets, but this thing is over 3 times the thickness of a ‘normal’ one. I’d just like to know why. There must be a good reason!...Also my bike is ticking over nice and low but when I put the lights on it stumbles and dies. Any input? I have the first stator with three individual coils. 1 for charching 1 for lights and 1 for ignition. How can the lights be piggy backing the ignition?! Poor earth on the ignition side?
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I know they make good gaskets, but this thing is over 3 times the thickness of a ‘normal’ one. I’d just like to know why. There must be a good reason!...Also my bike is ticking over nice and low but when I put the lights on it stumbles and dies. Any input? I have the first stator with three individual coils. 1 for charching 1 for lights and 1 for ignition. How can the lights be piggy backing the ignition?! Poor earth on the ignition side?
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@
I know they make good gaskets, but this thing is over 3 times the thickness of a ‘normal’ one. I’d just like to know why. There must be a good reason!...Also my bike is ticking over nice and low but when I put the lights on it stumbles and dies. Any input? I have the first stator with three individual coils. 1 for charching 1 for lights and 1 for ignition. How can the lights be piggy backing the ignition?! Poor earth on the ignition side?
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@spookdog Same thing happens in my Starlet. If I turn the headlights on and fans on the idle drops
wrote on 1 Sept 2021, 19:26 last edited byDone my first running in run. 65 miles of ‘still going’!
Fingers crossed
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I just got a 400 Kenda rear tyre. Am I going to regret it? Does the Dtr take a 400 tyre ok?
wrote on 8 Oct 2021, 13:36 last edited byAnyone used rust converter on exhaust downpipe?...
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wrote on 13 Oct 2021, 07:41 last edited by
@spookdog I've used the Loctite stuff before but its not very good, apparently Jennolite (sp?) is meant to be much better. Probably better to get blasted then paint immediately afterwards
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wrote on 14 Oct 2021, 11:50 last edited by
@spookdog said in So Close!...:
Anyone used rust converter on exhaust downpipe?...
Use harpic x10, a few of my mates use it on their WR125’s to get all the road grim that builds up and allow the pipe to bronze a nice colour however I’ve been told it’s known to strip stainless of its stainless ability so I’d also recommend getting your hands on some ACF50
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@spookdog said in So Close!...:
Anyone used rust converter on exhaust downpipe?...
Use harpic x10, a few of my mates use it on their WR125’s to get all the road grim that builds up and allow the pipe to bronze a nice colour however I’ve been told it’s known to strip stainless of its stainless ability so I’d also recommend getting your hands on some ACF50
wrote on 15 Oct 2021, 12:46 last edited by@stevie-wonder Harpic is brutal but effective - it will mark the chrome on forks its that acidic. If you use it you must paint straight after as its bare metal which will immediately rust again
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@stevie-wonder Harpic is brutal but effective - it will mark the chrome on forks its that acidic. If you use it you must paint straight after as its bare metal which will immediately rust again
wrote on 17 Oct 2021, 13:47 last edited byCheers guys!
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wrote on 17 Oct 2021, 17:05 last edited by
@spookdog I used Hammerite kurust on my Dep downpipe that had rusted really bad at the header. It's a brush on rust converter that transforms the rust into a stable material. It turns it black then you paint it. Done at the start of this year and all good so far. £5 from Halfords.
