DT125R FORUM

Clean your carb out so you've got a good base point to start from. Your idle screw should be between 1 and a half turns out and about 3 turns out when the engines hot. If it's running better at under 1 and a half turns out then you want to fit a richer pilot jet, higher than 3 turns stick a leaner in. If this is set right the bike should always require choke from cold start, which is correct procedure.

@jamesrandall93 Sounds like a good plan, I would also check all your hoses and pipes for any splits. If there is a leak or a split hose that would most likely be the culprit???

@jamesrandall93 There a straight swap, no mods required. 😉

@randall Did you fixed this? It's odd but I experienced this on mine too. Engine is bogging down when I give it a full throttle. I checked the ful and spark but they seems normal.

@jamesrandall93 Yeah, I think you're missing the point I'm trying to make.

If the fueling isn't setup perfectly, that's where you will encounter problems. So if it's modified and hasn't been rejetted then reliability will suffer.

If the bike is in stock trim (ignoring the DEP) and the engine sounds sweet, then you can greenlane on it all day long without engine troubles.

@DanRacing yeah man, it's glynnbeard

@jamesrandall93 Get a Haynes manual dude, there worth their weight in gold!!! 😉

My freind had a sinnis apache and after about 2 years the seals gave up and they were pitted like mad on the forks and they are terrible.... just buy some decent ones off of a mx bike such as the yz .... anything else would be pointless as its not really an upgrade for the effort you will need to put in fabricating parts ...

@oldman Good point. Somehow forgot the basics.

To be honest I half assed the help here.

Go back to basics, to run you need fuel spark and air. If you got them three something should happen.

Thanks alot guys adjusted the air screw on the carb out the choke up alittle and she started first time no problem

@jamesrandall93 ..... temperature rising quickly? Eerrm it should rise quickly up to normal operating temperature .... you mean in to the red ? ..... im guessing before you posted this you checked the water level ect ? ...... a more detailed description will help us provide you with a better reply 👍

@jamesrandall93 I’m pretty sure it’s the wr200 system not a direct fit if I reacall correct but close enough there’s threads on here so search them up

@jamesrandall93 Well first identify if it is the clutch.

The clutch can be adjusted in three places. If the clutch was set up properly first, then the order of adjustment is.

Clutch Perch lever
Clutch Actuator Arm
Clutch Push Rod

The perch lever is the easiest. and is merely an adjustment at the lever. The knurly knobs on the end of the perch where the cable goes in is what I'm talking about.

You merely adjust the cable until there is a few millimeter play on the lever and the clutch is disengaged when pulled in.

If you've maxed out the adjustment on the lever, then reset it back and move on to the actuator arm.

This is the two nuts on a threaded bar to the left of the cylinder. Again the adjustment is the same.

If this is maxed out and it's still not improved, then you need to whip the clutch cover off and adjust the clutch from the pressure plates.

Dismantle the clutch cover, drain oil and coolant. Then amend the locking nut and threaded bar till positive engagement and then slacken off. Again ensuring you reset the clutch arm and perch prior.

If you still have no luck, then either, the push rods are worn, the ball bearing is worn, or the plates are worn.

The bike should be idling around 1500-2200 RPM's. If it's not, then there is something wrong. It's not a four stroke, it shouldn't be idling around the 1K mark.