Higher octane fuel from the petrol station won't really affect you too much. It could just be a bad set of gas from the station. Should try refilling it back up again. Higher Octane fuel, if you're wonder, contains anti-knock properties. This property stops the engine detonating. The reason why companies say it makes more power, or better on fuel, doesn't reside on the fuel alone. It resides in the ability to utilise the higher anti-knock properties. For you, on a stock DTR, what would this mean? Nothing. It means absolutely nothing. It doesn't mean more power in any way shape or form. If you were in a modern EFI car. It means that the ECU could advance the ignition slightly to utilise the higher knock qualities of the fuel. But since our bikes are carb, and I presume you're fairly stock tune, then no, it means nothing. Me on the other hand, I run higher compression, more agressive advance ignition, higher combustion temperatures. All of those encourage detonation. Thus, higher octane fuel is a must. There really is a lot to fueling, this was just a quick dump of information. Read Graham Bell's Two Stroke Performance Tuning if you want more information.

Run it with some methanol.. that will reduce emissions. Although you need to upjet

Thanks mate.

OK so it's not the power valve making the noise... Has anyone ever had a noise coming from the small end bearing? If so any videos of the noise?

Yeah, this was linked a while back on a tdr250 where the engine seized because of the play!

Yes Zeel claim to support 20K RPM. I figured that since you mentioned that, that you were wondering what would be needed. I'd expect, Zeel and custom coils. I just can't see the stock coil providing sufficient voltage to maintain that sort of rpm

@Glynn123 Hi Glynn thanks for your reply and feedback! I would be very much interested in the carb if you still have it! If so can you send me a few photos to wilsonmichael1992@gmail.com Much appreciate and look forward to your reply! Mike

@AndyJay was it wet out?

@Calum cheers... I know there are plenty of full sets including the stator generator but I was looking for just a new pick-up part due to the metal face being warn down by the tab on the flywheel when it came loose. Once I can get the flywheel off I'll see how the current one fends - I might be able to manipulate it to still get the correct spacing for it to work. This is what I was looking at https://www.hpi.be/pickup.php

DTRE and DTR have different fly wheels with different pickups. It's likely the ignition timing will be different. Therefore you will need an R CDI.

Managed to find it, extremely small split in the inlet manifold so it was pulling extra air into the engine. Thanks for all the help though guys!!

@Calum everything seems to be right. Ypvs works. I pulled out the plug yesterday, on the end of the ground electrode there were a small bit of carbon, i thought that was causing the problem. I swapped the plug, and same thing happens when the bike gets hot. Could it be pre ignition? I've read that carbon deposits on the piston could cause pre ignition when the bike heats up.

My thoughts are the standard airbox is quite sufficient if you remove the snorkel. you would only benefit from making that hole another few centimetres bigger and thats if you were fitting a larger carb which wouldn't really have much benefit unless you had atleast mild porting or head work zeeltronic ect ..

Pick up a cap from the Scrappy, any car one with the same pressure will work aslong as it has the old style rad cap. You'll pay Penny's for it.

@mhbikesnbits not restricted in any way. Always tuneable

buy yourself a thread restoring file - they usually have x8 different thread profiles on them