You'll want a fly wheel puller. And you'll need to lock the crankshaft off to remove it. Pretty simple job though. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PRO-13PC-HARMONIC-BALANCE-CRANKSHAFT-GEAR-PULLEY-PULLER-FLYWHEEL-BALANCER/122134506298?_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D53530%26meid%3D7ad1578465b741d992b0a55ca04a7f02%26pid%3D100505%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D122134506298&_trksid=p2045573.c100505.m3226 That for a DTRE, you'll need a different one for a DTR.

@Calum ok mate will do thanks

https://imgur.com/a/dvpHDWy Went to a place where they teach welding and stuff today. A guy there made a pretty good job. Not knowing exactly what material it was combined with a dirty oily piece and I'm definitely happy. I'll trim down the piece a sticking up on the first image. Correct me if I'm wrong, does the starter wheel(the wheel that's connected to the flywheel) spin with the engine? Or does it only move when the starter is turned over? In that case, the tolerances shouldn't matter as much.

There is a guy on ebay selling complete kits for 100 quid bought one a few weeks ago but he has more on there

@Bananper The dog ears are in the gearbox, they are what shift the gear cogs into place from the selector drum. I can't see why there would play. The primary shaft is fastened against the case and the bewring.

Skim the head and barrel before you leave, it's the one thing that WILL let you down on a DTR, even if it's not visibly warped it will leak from the gasket, the surfaces need to be absolutely perfect.

@jimmydc98 If you had a chuck big enough you could machine it in a lathe. But it does sound like you would need to send it away. To be honest with you, it's really not that expensive. It cost me £80 to get my Starlet head chemically cleaned and skimmed.

@2Stroke4Smoke No, that sounds like the powervalve retarding to me. It should pull hard to the red line when derestricted. The ignition on the DT is a reliable tune. An aftermarket ignition (for me) didn't do so much to the top end as it does to the mid range. Much punchier throughout the rev range. No doubt peak power was increased, but it was definitely the midrange I was impressed with. I just bought a Zeel for my RS from PJME at a cost of £300. I paid £160 plus VAT for my DT one years ago. It's a worth while upgrade, great place to start if you're looking for extra ponies, but don't compare it to a KTM as it simply ain't that.

Fahron Engineering. I believe his name is Ron Philips, based in Linby , Nottingham. He usd to tune and make his own kits for the RD400s, he sorted my barrel and head when the head got warped and sorted the squish band out ect. Not missed a beat yet.

@2Stroke4Smoke you've never looked at mine then lol

@admiral323 yeah sounds a similar climate, ofcourse jetting is dependent on many factors, but generally I've found the standard DT jetting, especially on late models were way lean.

@jamesrandall93 id recommend you to get arrow/gianelli if you want the best performance and straight fit

Did you figure out the cause of this problem?

@louis-james I take it this selector drum is different to the 125 drum.

@calum have you looked at the video i linked above? Do you think it's to loose? Could the bearing be the problem

@calum that’s piston though mine has perfect compression and suprising power

@declan so I’ve adjusted it and to get the right bite point I have to have no slack in the cable and for the most part it functions perfect except for it still drags and I’d need to up the idle just a tad so it doesent die turned off and warm it pushes perfect in 1st gear with the clutch pulled in

Calum, totally agree!

@2stroke4smoke Glad you solved it. Generally there is no reason to worry about timing on a stock two stroke. Naturally if it's been modified...