@Calum Ok thanks very much

Thanks for responding! I tried to unplug the killswitch, but nothing happened. The side stand switch is unplugged. Where is the fuse? Is it with the battery, cause i dont have a fuse there.

Ok. But usually non restricted 125cc bikes the exhaust just moves the powerband. makes sense.

@theportingmaster you got any 170 barrel and head for sale ??

Ive been off this forum for a good few months now but I went through a lot of tuning with a Polini PWK 32mm on my DTRE. On standard engine it took a lot of jetting and needle changes to find one that worked but when it was done it had a little more torque than stock. I had plans in the pipeline for a new engine build and programmable ignition which is why I changed the carb, my engine was worn out when I tried it at first but it does work and go well, you'll need to adapt your throttle cable. I have now built my new engine up with ignitech ignition and advanced map, carbon reeds etc and it needs rejected but goes very well, unfortunately I haven't had the time or enthusiasm to go on any bikes since spring last year but if I get round to it this year I will finish tuning the DT and write more on here, I have wrote some stuff about the polini carb on here before, I'm not sure if you seen it or not.

As I have finished the 1988 bike looking for something to do. Seriously looking at doing this to keep me busy. I'll have to look around and see if I can find the parts needed. Nice job!

ill test it when i have time with haynes manual

@Calum Thanks for answering.

@jonne123 i mean it depends on you. if you want to mix oil yourself then go for it. but i haven't heard of those oil pumps failing

@dtre94 hiya buddy sorry to hear about your problems, where abouts are you in the world? i work in a garage in the northwest and i could fix this for you if you nearby... let me know

@SouthWalesYammy I had the same problem mine fixed it’s self) EDIT) the only thing to do with cooling i changed was the radiator cap maybe that was the issue?

Any updates on this?

Had a look, impressive work, love to have those skills

@DTR-NSR cheers for that buddy

@SouthWalesYammy Stainless doesn't love tension. They don't like to be stretched. But the head bolts are like 11nm so don't need a lot of force.

@HassePallisgaard well you can remove everything else but you should leave the pump in its place since it can act as the cover plate. i think that removing it doesnt make a difference but you do you

Hi , Matthew . I had the exact same problem as you. My temporal solution was indeed to place a clip in the tube of the power jet, thus fully restricting it and fitting a 210 main jet. Even then, on full throttle I was running on the rich side, which made the engine to bog and not go above 8k rpm. I managed to fix it some days ago. I will make a post with pics on the whole procedure sometime around the next month when I will have the time, but here’s some things I did to look into: Fully clean the carburetor body and jets using an ultrasonic cleaner. Replace all the O-rings with new ones. Replace the needle valve with the seat with brand new ones. Adjust the float height to the Hayens manual specifications. After the rebuilt I went from running rich and having hesitation on fast openings of the throttle to actually running a tiny bit lean with crisp response . *The lean is probably due to the 210 main jet I’m using instead of the factory 240 one. * If you haven’t changed any of the jets, I think the above steps will help you. Also be sure to make a plug chop using a new spark plug to verify that you are not running overly lean or rich before and after the rebuild .

Thanks guys it's all sorted now I put a rubber o ring on the screw and it works mint