Theirs no threads left so I've not got a choice but to do it unfortunately but on the plus side atleast it's do able and not hard to do

@ninja just listened to the full song,was pretty jamming and that hair was magnificent 😂😂

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This is my water pump impeller with the pump seal welded to it, I bought the Athena seal from PJME and I didn’t realise it didn’t fit correctly till I fired up my bike and this is what was screeching so I would advise if replacing the water pump seal use OEM!

@calum isn’t the thought of all parts discontinued terrifying

@darty cheers for that appreciated

Yambits! Expensive but gets the work done

Check the choke passageway in the floatbowl, for some reason people never clean this when they clean the carb.

Had similar, lucky enough to redrill and tap thread. Snapped bolt as I was removing the water pump cover, fixing a stud in place sounds a good idea?

I think it's just the nature of the beast like @Calum says. I have to do it on my Triumph

@calum no just couldn’t get it in there it’s my a/f screw that’s seized

@declan Phew, thanks

Nice one cheers

@dan28 I have a small blinded hose with clip on side of the pump , so when bike idling , take the clip off and pull the blinded hose , manually by hand turn the pulley to max so the pump pumping max oil. I am replaced my oil hoses for clear ones so I can see there is no bubbles . I think its only important to bleed the oil tank - pump pipe. If you doing it , place a clean container (Im using old jar from pickles) so I can reuse the oil. If you did rebuilt the top end , you have probably used excessive amount of oil to lube the bearings and rings so I think its plenty for less than 5min job bleeding oil pump . If you premix your petrol in tank and bleed the pump , you will run too much oil which fouling spark. (Happened to me) 😊

cheers lads

I'd fit a new one but its handy to do on the old gas cooker if you are working on the bike at night or on a Sunday etc

I've heard of a small company called Yamaha who might have one in stock 😉

Sarcasm aside any decent brand will be ok

Haynes manual tells you how to make a crank pusher / puller so you can re-use your existing crank without having it rebuilt (assuming its ok that is).

Personal preference would be to strip it down

@calum I found that the wr200 clutch boss from 1992 were exactly the same as the dt ones and they are plentiful in the USA market selling for around £20-30 quid postage is also around £20 so around £40-£50 for a clutch boss instead of a NOS one for £110! won't forget the washer on this one 😛

@ricky0115 Yeah but would take cause the RPM's to increase.