You normally check the squish by feeding a small length of solder down the spark plug hole, so the edge of the solder touches the edge of the bore. Then turning the engine over by hand then measuring the squashed end of the solder with a micrometer or similar. The squish on my dtr was 0.6mm when I bought it, which seems to be on the tight side.

It will go thousands and thousands of miles on the gearbox oil, no worries

You could fill oil tank, bleed pump and run bike on premix with oil discharge pipe disconnected into a milk bottle amd see if it works with engine running, rotate pulley on oil pump to max for maximum discharge. Will give you an idea if its doing anything at all.

@mitch_350z Right, yeah 10mm IIRC. I replaced all mine with M6 Stainless Steel Hex heads.

It's designed to be like that for the pick up.

@ninja tell me about it, I wish engines were see through

@jammy123 Haynes manuals are a goldmine of info, best tool in any workshop!!!

I went with 112. If it’s to long I’ll shorten

Well guys I’m certainly in the right place with this forum. @Calum I realise and understand your thinking, you always offer a way to still ride the bike to enjoy it. I just want to get shot of the bodges, turned screw heads, snapped bolts and quick fixes. @oldman thank you for the contact, I really appreciate it. I’m hoping both the pumps l got hold of work, then l can send one off to be refurbished. @NINJA thank you for your kind words, l say great minds think alike...... and congregate in similar places! I should be able to take it out this weekend, even my new rear fender for AJ Sutton has turned up, that has got to be good luck!

You will need to bleed it if you disconnected the pipe from oil tank to pump. Its easy , on the side of pump is small blind rubber pipe with clip . Let bike idle , and put some clean container under the pump then pull that hose ,oil will leak uneven , manually turn the oil pulley to full , when oil leaking nice and even there should be no air in it. Then just refit the small pipe and clip and thats it. Tip the oil back in tank Best to have the clear pipes

@calum - I have had it all apart and have ordered a new kit for the impeller and seal. Whilst I’m in the clutch area l have ordered a new clutch and spring set. Fingers crossed this will solve this problem! Thanks again for your help...... to the next bodge!

@ricky0115 shit happens lol

[image: 4.jpg] See photo

I am worked on mine recently , according to the haynes manual its 7kg-m which is 68.64 nm

Theirs no threads left so I've not got a choice but to do it unfortunately but on the plus side atleast it's do able and not hard to do

@ninja just listened to the full song,was pretty jamming and that hair was magnificent

[image: TmzIpEL.jpg] This is my water pump impeller with the pump seal welded to it, I bought the Athena seal from PJME and I didn’t realise it didn’t fit correctly till I fired up my bike and this is what was screeching so I would advise if replacing the water pump seal use OEM!

@calum isn’t the thought of all parts discontinued terrifying

@darty cheers for that appreciated