DT125R FORUM

Hi did you get sorted out I’ve got the same engine any my loom is intact it’s an import from Europe slightly different to uk model these have a reed switch for restrictor in the headlight

You know thats not a bad idea i made up some gaskets that held and some stuff for a workbench and some pc feet that still hold up cant remember the name of tht printing material but had a nice spongy bounce wonder how well it would take up with the seasons though outside. What came to mind was one of them old girvin flex stem elastimers we used to have in the 90s on our mtbs but bet you cant source them either nowadays just hoping I dont ruin the bushes n stuff when I remove it still in two minds to do the front tyre and get tht mot n prey he dont notice it not as if im going to be doing jumps off road on it now theres nowhere left to ride round here. You got me thinking now though if I can stretch the spring enough and tht printing stuff holds enough for me to slip a rubber printed collar around the shaft happy days. Your more than welcome to come and help me though bro just been reading them blog posts about couple of them builds tht RS n Yamito you got some mad skills n patience would love to restore one of mine and rebuild the engines properly i'm to impatient to rebuild the cvt on her moped lol

Thanks lads appreciate tht will see what I can do with all my old parts hopefully get this old girl growling like she should

I’ve always froze my bearings heated up the hub greased everything up then gave a bit of gentle persuasion, never had any problems the couple of times I’ve done it but that’s a pretty handy trick

I've only used Zeeltronics on all my bikes and they've been great. I'll be picking another one up for my new project in the years to come. I've heard good things about the Ignitech system @Darty swears by them.

SUPER SKETCHY Chinese Clone! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323872066584?epid=20025607719&itmmeta=01J5409BPQSJMEWRMJFZ2ATFRC&hash=item4b68478c18:g:U34AAOSwjsplY1HG&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwHb9DIbmthsF61tkqjZzw1mmO%2BCIpRFTrxBxiCoNlg%2F6Ia96QZFg%2BQVn9W0EHGUMdESGcPgpBAHub3%2FcfeJfiVHrcRSt0gOftLFhqXVKmFgWq5oUHfp%2FY3l0ODvPwIVdrKe8u9FQCvvdM19TWFtYkfKsxiUEly0bQ9AEOt2SYsjJMgF4x7ewiXeLPZ%2B7%2FotAe7jwxMBtryXU4DTDq9f%2FM%2Fhmpoyrl5G8WfKEmjBbTRO%2BUlm6psilKAdWuv23Bk%2BuEg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR7y7pYCpZA I mean I wouldn't use it but... [image: s-l1600.webp] Does sat Mikuni on it One from the states looks more plausable https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/387258784286?epid=11020681088&itmmeta=01J540BN34W043QQMWYB8V529Z&hash=item5a2a6c1a1e:g:PkwAAOSwVrRmrNT3&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwAnikbBRR1MW0A%2BnPsvSk%2FMQhmjCd%2B0ShOESogilF1WH%2Bdw5nyLSMGboL50qFS8LgviZRVW%2FqEguBjTLQTOcuZd%2B%2BxTAeHcznQWzclSZqHS7mwCf0YHTkX3knvc7ZELI7lRbFx2r0qopvuGrejG3IhNOsvegptFOULiWhOMHbysUoqhOwiHh4%2BEIgNbUJnt5i9pm%2FDVHkBnluGpIog%2B8xR8pMhR6iXb95jMFNiHxg6JhG8mG%2B%2FUqRvcFtfBFyOxZHw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR9rRroCpZA But looks like it could just be the Chinese one sold off for a profit You used to be able to get these carbs ten a penny...now no such luck

@SpookDog I've had good results with car shampoo in the past, it has the same lubricating qualities as Fairy Liquid but without all the nasty elements which rot the rims from the inside. I used to have this problem fairly often with Avon TrailRiders in the recommended sizes on DTR rims; excellent tyres but it was always difficult to get them to pop the bead and sometimes I had to deflate the tyre completely, remove it and refit 90 degrees around the rim. This is even after blowing them up to 50psi with the valve core removed using a compressor. I've had to leave them at this pressure for 30 minutes or so in the past as well, and resort to other tricks like hammering the sidewall kind of downwards with a rubber mallet at the affected spot (watch the rim!). It was only ever a problem with this particular make and model of tyre, they were ace on the road but Avons have always been a bit strange. Most bike shops fit tyres using the 50psi-no-valve-core-compressor method. This might not be what you want to hear but if your rim responds to this treatment by exploding then it was a pretty safe bet it was sufficiently corroded to be unsafe to use. Slightly off topic but there's a well-known story called "The Imprint of Death" they tell kids at tech colleges about a tyre fitter who was fitting a truck tyre and didn't bother using the circus animal-sized cage they put them in to pop the bead; it went bang and half of him ended up stuck to the ceiling. A bike tyre won't do that but still has a lot of energy stored in it, enough to do someone serious harm if they're stood right next to it. I think if I was worried whether a crusty rim of mine could handle 50psi, I'd be on the lookout for a new wheel to be honest.

Oh nice! Have you got any photos?

@SpookDog On reflection maybe my "dead money" comment earlier was a bit dismissive; I was a bit pissed when I wrote it as I'd had a MTB problem in the rain the previous evening and was looking at the wrong end of spending the day fixing it. So apologies if I've annoyed/upset anyone.

In my opinion is very stupid to stop termic vehicles and force people to reply them with electric vehicles because they are not the main cause of pollution. The governments worry about stopping an 70's year vespa, which can go for 30 kilometers with a litre. But nobody talks about the trucks that travel all day and consume more than every other vehicles. Or the ships and plane, which have no anti pollution law to comply with. And even if we stopped all this vehicles, the pollution will not disappear, because just one country like China or India pollutes as much as Europe and North America together. We should stop to trade with the countries who are destroying the world. The thing I hate the most is that the people who protest against termic vehicles are the ones who daily buy stuff on shein, temu, aliexpress, thinking that there will be no consequence on the environment. Unluckily, who make the laws don't want to understand this. I hope people will become more aware of the real problem, and I hope the eco-madness stops soon.

Nice one, thanks for that suggestion! I’ll give that a go. Ps. Nice name!

@MadGyver Thank you!

[image: 21mSygm.jpeg]

Very cool! Tip: You can embed the photos by using the ![](https://example.com/location/of/image.png syntax.

They are fuel overflow hoses. Attach a hose like shown on the other side and feed it underneath the bike away from any hot areas. They're designed to flow gas away from the bike and hot areas should the bike fall over and the tap not be shut off.

@eric74 Fair play for getting on and replacing the tacho drive O-ring. Looking at your pics I'd say the oil is definitely coming from where the cable joins the tacho drive so I'd order the oil seal for this (item 7): https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4083282/dt125r-3py3-1991-999-a/tachometer-gear Looking at the 4th image you posted up, the plastic breather stub should be right behind the tacho drive about where the old O-ring you mentioned is so it looks like your breather is missing (items 14 and 15): https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4083277/dt125r-3py3-1991-999-a/crankcase Not sure whether oil would be visibly leaking out of here if it simply wasn't fitted (you never see any oil in the clear tube IIRC) so it may be that someone had the bright idea of plugging the hole with silicone sealant or something similar. Have a poke around here but be careful, if that's what's been done it would be too easy to end up with it disappearing into the crankcase, but if you're patient with the needle nose pliers/tweezers etc. you can remove a wodge of sealant like that from the outside.

A tyre/rim chart I have says up to 80/90-21 is ok,90/90-21 is what I will put when I change tyres. Don't remember where but someone fitted that size to 1.60-21 rim and had no problem.

@Julius And what type of CDI unit do you have?

But what you're talking about is replacing the whole ignition system, flywheel, pick up, stator and CDI because you don't want to have your RE/X crank rebuilt. Which PJME do for £40 https://www.pjme.co.uk/acatalog/Yamaha-DT125R-DT125-R-Crank-Rebuild-4121.html#SID=1170 That doesn't make any sense