DT125R FORUM

Just push the piston back into the caliper. Make sure you undo the reservoir first however. I don't think there is anything special about the way the front brake pads go in though. It's been 10+ years since I've remotely looked at a DTR caliper but most calipers are fairly self explanatory.

Merry Christmas and a happy new year,wish you good health to all, everything else is obtainable.

Thanks so much, I managed to figure it out but Now I'm dealing with my own front brake problems haha

Apart from oil leaking from engine block, the engine runs good when it runs.

Update on a problem. i have pwn on bike now nad i remover rubber under seat, bike now sound so good. And i got so much on a power, i thing this pwk like more air. I put bigger main jet in it and i get better throtle response on idle!, those carb are weird. And torque in low rpms is crazy. 3rd gear on 3500 rpms, i give it throtle and bike pulls like crazy right into a power band, so much low end grunt, and a sound of a intake its so good with a aftermarked silencer. I am so happy with a bike now. And those pwk copies are good, just jet it corectly. I am planing on opening a expansion chamber and cleaning it out, and removig everything from it, cuz i saw there is like lining inside. Should i remove it or not ?

I see you also recomended me the Zeeltronic. I'll make some research about it. The main problem for this bike at least in Spain (where I'm from) is that there's not really any market for it, and it's a shame really. I saw the carburetor as the "accesible small powering piece". I just dont want to change the cylinder or big things like that, just a small thing to change the performance of the bike without going for too much, just a little push. If Mikuni is good brand then i'll search for a 32 Mikuni to keep the line of being always equiped with Mikuni. I bought the bike with a Gianelli exhaust with homologation. I see almost every DT with installed Arrow, DEP, Turbokit or Gianelli exhausts kits. It's the only aftermarket thing installed to it. Now before changing carburetor or anything else, I need to fix the regulator, alternator and battery, and then i'll see. I see you're also pretty close with the bike, and very aknowledged about it. I really aprecciate the advice you're giving me.

Oh is it? I did wonder as it has a tread can’t remember was awhile since I took it out. I was thinking it could be blank cheers mate.

Moral of the story from this I can see is More horse power = power maintenance worm with pustion changes probably more regularly Keeping the dep exhaust carbon reeds and sprocket changes seems like the best for performance with out risking blowing pistons more frequently I did see a video on YouTube on how to make two stroked more powerful but with this there was a risk of blowing the engine maybe if you want a fast bike just get a bigger one? I wanted a yz road legal but for daily use I can imagine these get warm and aren't really good for road bikes sure for the track for a couple hours it's all good The dtr is a true work horse in my opinion

Done. Thanks guys

Nice one for that mate thanks for all the info I'll take the break completely off and try see where the leak is actually coming from but I suspect it is the seals will order some genuine ones tonight thank you pal for the tips

Morning guys I just popped of rad cap went for a ride and she's now staying cool cheers guys

@Calum no worries mate. I would take a cad file if you wouldn’t mind sharing will likely send them off to a local machinist. I have a 3d printer as well so could try the cad file on there!

Hi spook need the right fork as i snapped the axel bracket when changing the front tyre getting it ready for its mot

Good morning pal thank you so much the thread on the engine was fine brought a tap and die set and fixed the bolt and it's back o there was In full panic mode how would I go about bolting it on to the engine as at the moment I have one bolt on it and I use that through the exhaust to the engine to bolt it on but the other one you just undo the nut and the bolt stays in the engine how ever the other one the Bolt comes out of the engine sorry if it does not make sense my English is not the best

@mbmO8 This explains the YEIS box between the carb and reed valve better than I can: https://global.yamaha-motor.com/stories/history/stories/0019.html When working around that area it's not that difficult to remove as long as you have a decent pair of pliers to squeeze the clip on top of the reed block, just stuff a rag in the hole until you refit it. The one behind the carb on later bikes, I've never owned a DTR with one of these fitted so maybe someone else can help out explaining this? I see a lot of people blank these off with the lid off a Coke bottle.

Hi all. is there any way to find out my engine year as it says 3py-001. at 1st can't find anywhere to check engine numbers and make of it.

Cheers @HOTSHOT-III

Whoa. Yes, it's a good thing we didn't ordered the wrong parts for my bike. So you're saying i should check the carb?