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  • Please Introduce Yourself Here Before Posting!
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    CalumC
    Hey @rhodes5150, Nice early example which should hopefully be full power. Best thing you can do with these is to start by getting them full stock. That's a derestricted CDI (yours sounds like it should be), then making sure you've got a working YPVS system which is setup correctly. If the engine is sweet, then leave it alone for the time being. If it's aged and worse for wear, then getting it rebuilt is the way to go. These engines are incredibly simple and easy to rebuild with no specialist tools required. Can drop the bearings in by using a conventional oven heating the cases up. Checkout Yamaha DT 125 r derestriction to see what's needed for your bike. Once you've got the stock motor running sweet, and you still want more power then here are a list of mods I'd do (haven done most of what can be done, experience tells me this is the best order and bang for buck). Exhaust System Full DEP system Really perks up the mid-range punch Cuts out significant weight over the stock system Zeeltronic Ignition System Over my DTRE/X (pretty restricted CDI) really punches up the midrange Carbon Reeds I run VForce4 Reed block on my DTR But generic carbon reeds can help Mileage may vary I'd struggle to tell the difference Porting work Making sure the head/squish is correct is where you'll get the most gains Cheap to get someone to do and can make or break a two stroke Having the cylinder done can be more expensive and mileage may vary on this Athena 170 I've grown to appreciate the 170 kit It doesn't compare to RS 125 big bore kits or other extreme setups Massively increases the mid-range (reducing overrev) Makes the ride much easier to live with Of course this can also be ported to make additional gains here. You can do other mods, such as skimming the flywheel. This doesn't give you any more power per se, but allows the power to be obtained faster. This can drastically affect the overall performance though, so sometimes it's best to leave it alone.
  • This section is for members to talk about anything non-dt related. Please keep the theme and language clean to permit viewing in work.
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    R
    RD and DT LC are the same block, but gear ratios differ. RD has a close ratio gearbox and DT has a wide ratio. Close ratio is not ideal if you want to go offroad IMO. Primary drive with clutch and 'middle shaft' length differs in the the LC engines I compared. Definitely get a LC YPVS engine if you go that route, -more usable power than without power valve. I have a DT LC YPVS close to stock, I reshaped the head and installed a Zeeltronic and put in 0,3mm carbon reed petals, the rest is stock. Goes well and has really good midrange torque for a 125. I think the DTR and TZR engines are the same block too, but there is probably the same gear ratio difference, and possibly more I have not tried dropping in a DTR engine in a LC frame (have only one DTR engine and many LC's), but have thought about it. Let us know if you try it!
  • Post your jokes & funny things you find on the web in here.
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    HOTSHOT IIIH
    @Stevie-Wonder Thanks bud Greta (for that is her name as she's noisy, irritating, aimed squarely at the youth market and responsible for thousands of them bunking off school all over the world) cost me half as much as my '93 due to the mileage and had a thick layer of grime all over due to years of grinding commuting. I gave her a scrub with Jizer (several times) and this is what was underneath Here are the part #s for the toolbox and lid, bit pricey IMO and you'd have to get the lugs welded on to a non-e start frame. Be a nice touch if you were getting it powdercoated sometime though https://www.cmsnl.com/products/boxtool_55v2817301/ https://www.cmsnl.com/products/lid_55v2818500/
  • Blog posts from individual members
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    NINJAN
    @Minia Looks nice and beefy and she sounds cool with a deep roar!!! :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes: :face_with_stuck-out_tongue_winking_eye: :thumbs_up_light_skin_tone:
  • Content Not Suitable for Work!
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  • Advice buying a 2006 DT125R

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    B
    When a 2 stroke is left to stand for a while the carb will be gummed up. As someone mentioned, oil change, new 2T oil, new filter, plug and change coolant. Make sure all old petrol is drained and new is put back in. Ride is slow for a 10mins using brakes and clutch etc to break them in again, once your happy all is ok, take it for a good blast, get all tha shit out the exhaust. If it's abit doggy on accelerating, a full carb clean is required. Good luck
  • This topic is deleted!

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  • Husky cr 250

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    CalumC
    @minia Was going to say, your English is superb lol.
  • Beware

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    2
    I had a couple of bikes stolen in the past with what i thought was secure in a locked garage. Where i live now have to keep my DT in the back garden, not only thousands spent on it is all the hours spent making it how i want it. So have 3 x 16mm hardened chains through 3 different ground anchors and best paddlocks could get. Thatcham approved disc lock as well as a Datatool Alarm with infra red cctv. And just to make sure it's fitted with an Automatrics MTrack 24 hour monitored tracker which is the best tracker out there. So feel quite safe for my little DT, spent lots on security but only need to buy once and will do for years and for many bikes. only cost now is £129 a year for the tracker monitoring. So feel safe from thieving scumbags as i can be, even if anyone enters garden my cctv alerts me so be amazed if precious DT ever was stolen.
  • New owner ... yamaha dt125r 2001

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    CalumC
    @jamesrandall93 Well first identify if it is the clutch. The clutch can be adjusted in three places. If the clutch was set up properly first, then the order of adjustment is. Clutch Perch lever Clutch Actuator Arm Clutch Push Rod The perch lever is the easiest. and is merely an adjustment at the lever. The knurly knobs on the end of the perch where the cable goes in is what I'm talking about. You merely adjust the cable until there is a few millimeter play on the lever and the clutch is disengaged when pulled in. If you've maxed out the adjustment on the lever, then reset it back and move on to the actuator arm. This is the two nuts on a threaded bar to the left of the cylinder. Again the adjustment is the same. If this is maxed out and it's still not improved, then you need to whip the clutch cover off and adjust the clutch from the pressure plates. Dismantle the clutch cover, drain oil and coolant. Then amend the locking nut and threaded bar till positive engagement and then slacken off. Again ensuring you reset the clutch arm and perch prior. If you still have no luck, then either, the push rods are worn, the ball bearing is worn, or the plates are worn.
  • Dt125r 2000/2001 Not starting

    not starting
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    CalumC
    The bike should be idling around 1500-2200 RPM's. If it's not, then there is something wrong. It's not a four stroke, it shouldn't be idling around the 1K mark.
  • Mayday

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    Glynn123G
    Bet that could embarrass a few modern sportbike riders haha, stunning machines
  • This topic is deleted!

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  • Selling my dt125re Stefan everts mint condition

    Locked
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    gbone85G
    Sold today Gone to a good home
  • Handguards

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    F
    Carbon wrap maybe the way to go I think. Cheers fellas
  • TDR starting problem

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    declanD
    @calum sometimes with a fresh plug mine starts without choke although extremely rare for me
  • DT 125 LC MK1 parts catalogue

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    S
    much chance of finding it on there as u have of winning the lottery lol
  • Reusable Copper Head Gaskets

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    Glynn123G
    I used one of the cheap knockoff white ones, cost pretty much nothing and has never leaked, I fitted it using wellseal on both surfaces, never fit a gasket dry.
  • Parts from Portugal

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    FusedF
    Ok thanks bud
  • Fork protectors

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    Sgt Robuck 5S
    @finnerz89 thought so XD
  • Bolt sizes and kits? Stainless steal or zinc and grading.

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    Sgt Robuck 5S
    @calum said in Bolt sizes and kits? Stainless steal or zinc and grading.: m9VqkNhZ--b0f3UwRxSXqlw" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow">https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M6-6mm-CAP-SCREWS-HEX-SOCKET-ALLEN-KEY-BOLTS-A4-MARINE-GRADE-STAINLESS-STEEL/161017654476?hash=item257d666cccm9VqkNhZ--b0f3UwRxSXqlw Alright will have a better look into it cheers mate!
  • Wr200 forks

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    Yamboy46Y
    Wanna sell me your wr200 forks? Or straight swap em for mine if the condition is up to par? If your willing to part with a little cash there may be my entire front end up for grabs in the deal which will bolt straight on to your frame with my custom spacers
  • R or LC ?

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    CalumC
    @harri Yeah as I said to you previously, I really don't know much about the LC's I'm afraid.
  • Dtr mileage

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    J
    Bottem end lasts for ages on theese things.
  • BBK opinions

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    MiniaM
    As Calum said, you'll have to Jet it accordingly to try and get the best amount of mixture possible. But in my opinion it really just depends how much time you're willing to perfect it. If it's just something you want to thrash and aren't worried about the results you can probably skip a couple steps... I've certainly done that.