@jonne123 i mean it depends on you. if you want to mix oil yourself then go for it. but i haven't heard of those oil pumps failing

@dtre94

hiya buddy sorry to hear about your problems, where abouts are you in the world? i work in a garage in the northwest and i could fix this for you if you nearby... let me know 😉

@SouthWalesYammy I had the same problem mine fixed it’s self) EDIT) the only thing to do with cooling i changed was the radiator cap maybe that was the issue?

Any updates on this?

Had a look, impressive work, love to have those skills

@DTR-NSR cheers for that buddy

@SouthWalesYammy Stainless doesn't love tension. They don't like to be stretched. But the head bolts are like 11nm so don't need a lot of force.

@HassePallisgaard well you can remove everything else but you should leave the pump in its place since it can act as the cover plate. i think that removing it doesnt make a difference but you do you

Hi , Matthew . I had the exact same problem as you. My temporal solution was indeed to place a clip in the tube of the power jet, thus fully restricting it and fitting a 210 main jet. Even then, on full throttle I was running on the rich side, which made the engine to bog and not go above 8k rpm.

I managed to fix it some days ago. I will make a post with pics on the whole procedure sometime around the next month when I will have the time, but here’s some things I did to look into:

Fully clean the carburetor body and jets using an ultrasonic cleaner. Replace all the O-rings with new ones. Replace the needle valve with the seat with brand new ones. Adjust the float height to the Hayens manual specifications.

After the rebuilt I went from running rich and having hesitation on fast openings of the throttle to actually running a tiny bit lean with crisp response .

*The lean is probably due to the 210 main jet I’m using instead of the factory 240 one. *

If you haven’t changed any of the jets, I think the above steps will help you.

Also be sure to make a plug chop using a new spark plug to verify that you are not running overly lean or rich before and after the rebuild .

Thanks guys it's all sorted now I put a rubber o ring on the screw and it works mint 👍

Higher octane fuel from the petrol station won't really affect you too much.

It could just be a bad set of gas from the station.

Should try refilling it back up again.

Higher Octane fuel, if you're wonder, contains anti-knock properties. This property stops the engine detonating.

The reason why companies say it makes more power, or better on fuel, doesn't reside on the fuel alone.

It resides in the ability to utilise the higher anti-knock properties.

For you, on a stock DTR, what would this mean? Nothing. It means absolutely nothing. It doesn't mean more power in any way shape or form.

If you were in a modern EFI car. It means that the ECU could advance the ignition slightly to utilise the higher knock qualities of the fuel.

But since our bikes are carb, and I presume you're fairly stock tune, then no, it means nothing.

Me on the other hand, I run higher compression, more agressive advance ignition, higher combustion temperatures. All of those encourage detonation. Thus, higher octane fuel is a must.

There really is a lot to fueling, this was just a quick dump of information. Read Graham Bell's Two Stroke Performance Tuning if you want more information.

Run it with some methanol.. that will reduce emissions. Although you need to upjet

Thanks mate.

OK so it's not the power valve making the noise... Has anyone ever had a noise coming from the small end bearing? If so any videos of the noise?

Yeah, this was linked a while back on a tdr250 where the engine seized because of the play!

Yes Zeel claim to support 20K RPM.

I figured that since you mentioned that, that you were wondering what would be needed.

I'd expect, Zeel and custom coils. I just can't see the stock coil providing sufficient voltage to maintain that sort of rpm