DT125R FORUM

Merry Christmas everyone!

@HOTSHOT-III Hopefully the issue gets resolved as I don't want to lose the data they're hosting. The important stuff I ought to host here to guarantee it isn't lost.

@Rat80y The drain bolt stretching is a common thing on the DTR, IMO it's a design feature as if you overtighten it it usually snaps. Whilst being a right PITA to get the clutch cover off and wind out the broken part, it does mean the thread in the crankcase is saved (new crankcases = much more difficult/expensive than taking off an engine cover) so I hope you've ordered genuine from Fowlers (get a load of copper washers as well for future gearbox oil changes). Tightening torque is 15Nm so it's also well worth getting yourself a 1/4" drive torque wrench like this one: https://planetx.co.uk/products/jobsworth-pro-torque-wrench-set-1 There is some truth in both your AI source and what your friend said. In the days of the 12bhp learner restriction, DTRs with the powervalve pinned shut would struggle to rev beyond 6k rpm but properly set up/derestricted/full power it should rev to around 10k.

Hello there, As far as I was aware the Yamaha DT was discontinued in 2007 instead Yamaha makes rhe WR series. That looks like a cool looking bike though, would love to know more about it. I take it you're in the Asian market, hence why this is still available. I didn't know that the bike was still being produced there. I'd almost argue the bike's styling is closer to the 80's LC model vs the earlier 70's model, with the bike using an aircooled design over the liquid cooled variant. Sorry I can't be much more help than that, still cool bike though!

Yes, the air leak will definitely not be helped by not plugging up the oil inlet on the manfild, albeit a tiny leak. Yes the '88 DTR ran the TMS26 carb not the TM28 carb found on all other years. That said, I am not aware of any other changes. So finding a suitable inlet manifold (probably can still be had new) and the airboot shouldn't be hard. But finding a genuine Mikuni 28mm is trickier. A split in the carb boot is not ideal, but it won't be the source of your problem. I'd just smear some silicone onto it and allow that to harden. Crank seals are common causes for air leaks, as well as the gasket on the inlet manifolds (once you sort the oil connector out). Spray some WD40 around the general vicinity and if the revs drop back to normal then you've found your culprit .

I use the Athena pipe with the 170 cylinder, it works quite well, and most of the power is in the midrange, even if I can get it to rev higher with modified ignition curve, the torque is in the midrange. I have seen Mick Abbey writing somewhere that the stinger ID needs to be at least 22mm (or was it 23) with the 170 kit, so that is a bit tight at least with the Athena pipe. The black paint seems to hold up quite well on the Athena-branded version.

@Calum That site is known even more year's!!!!!