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  • Announcements regarding our community

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    CalumC
    Forum patched and updated. Fixed some database corruption issues which was having a knock-on effect with emojis so hopefully they're working now.
  • Got an Account Problem? Discuss here!

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    CalumC
    Hey All! Due to personal circumstances I will be needing to suspend the DT125R Forum for an indeterminate amount of time. This is an advance notice to say that at some point, in the not to distant future, I will be switching off this forum. My intention is to relocate the forum/database hosting as the current situation is no longer economically viable. It is unclear at the moment as to what the future will be for this forum, but rest assured it will be back online in the fullness of time. I appreciate each and every one of you that contributes to this forum so there is a BIG thank you from me. Take care & keep smoking! Calum
  • A place to talk about whatever you want

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    CalumC
    There are wiring diagrams and manuals around on this site. Try searching using the built in search. Another great tip is using Google In Google search engine do site:dt125r.co.uk wiring diagram 6 wire and let Google indexing do the heavy lifting.
  • Show off your builds!

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    CalumC
    It's in my experience that my DTR never started without choke, so that's normal. It needs to get to temperature and then you can remove the choke. Sounds like you need to strip and clean your carburetor, based off what you've just said. It could be float level height if it's just shutting the fuel off before it's even getting a chance to get into the bowl. Strip the carb, removing the atomiser and properly clean the carburetor in and out, being careful not to damage it as the components are brass and delicate. The engines are very basic and provided you've got compression, spark and fuel ,it'll run. If you can confirm that it's got spark and fuel, then check the compression for the engine, should get around 140PSI. Anything below 90 PSI and your engine is going to need an overhaul.
  • Need Information on a Specific Part? Post Here!

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    P
    Hey guys, I recently got a new Yamaha DT175 from the dealership, and I wanted to ask about the engine break-in period. The bike has almost 200 km on it now. I’ve been riding it normally, but I’ve also done some pulls and accelerated hard a few times. I wanted to know if the DT175 really needs a strict break-in period or if regular riding with occasional pulls is fine during the first few hundred kilometers. Also, are air leaks a common issue on these bikes? I suspect mine might have one because the idle sometimes stays high even after I release the throttle. It can also hang around 2,500–3,000 RPM instead of settling down properly. Has anyone experienced something similar with their DT175? Is this a common issue, and what should I check first? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
  • Need more power? Check here!

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    CalumC
    From my experience, the catalytic converter was so restrictive that I cannot fathom how it possible could not have an adverse effect. I do think, leaving your pipe standard is really ideal, especially as these bikes are appreciating classics. Instead, just grab yourself a DEP pipe and be done with it, the weight saving alone is worth it! Do you have a powervalve fitted or is it fixed?
  • Need a Guide? Look Here!

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    R
    Also don't forget to change bulb in light cluster for an led Kind regards