@CYBER-NINJA An ally rad would make a huge difference. The Lanza rad, like the DT200R Rad, has a tiny capacity. I'm sure it ran very hot. But then the DT never had a digital temperature gauge to compare it to. The RE's Simply have a light that goes on when the engine is too hot.

Awesome thanks @Calum

Most 4 stroke bikes use the same oil for engine and gearbox, so any bike oil will be fine.

But car oil is a no no as it has additives in that will make the clutch slip.

@Darty I am not convinced a bit of water would have seized tge engine. Any good engine builder liberally coata a freshly built engine with lots of oil.

Although now I think about it. If the leak was at the bottom gasket, and was severe. Then haven't you juat hydrolocked the engine?

Clearly it neess investigating so until you split the cases you won't truly know the extent of the damage.

https://www.ajsutton.co.uk/product/yamaha/3XP251900000/gear-unit-assy?uid=0

go here... go to the tab that says fitment, it shows the part number and all the same bikes that use the same speedo as the DT.

Alright, that's a no to the higher pitch in that case.

Doesn't look like I'm going to get any of this stuff before the weekend now. I have a whole heap of new stuff that I'm dying to get on the bike, so the drivetrain stuff is going to have to wait I think.

If I can get the bike running this weekend I'll place an order for one of those anodised renthal rear sprockets, a 428 chain and a standard front sprocket. I'll probably come back and ask about chains then.

Here's hoping I can get a spark this weekend.

@CYBER-NINJA I was going to say bet they weren't cheap. They look mint though.

@MattD thatis fine it will do that.t

@Uber_Beluga
So if you have four wires - one will be an ign. Switched live to the starter switch. One will be the return wire to the starter solenoid.
Then the other two will be a feed up from the CDI and a return that either goes back to the CDI to make a circuit or maybe goes to earth as I mentioned before.
Just buzz the wires out with your meter to check what they do, but if you can get a good make/break across the switch then that's not you problem.

@Uber_Beluga Alright mate, well feel free to PM me any time.

And as always, if you fancy doing it yourself, throw up a thread if you need help. Either myself or someone will be around to fire some answers.

Clutch needs to be balanced properly if it's dismantled.

But But noise is generic. Is it metal on metal sound?

@DevonDtr Even I don't do those hours!
Still £50 better off in your pockets. But if you are happy to pay then by all means.

@Leftyno1 yeah nice one man.

Yes and no. Of course when the clutch wears significantly it will slip. But it will not disengaged before it slips so theres that.

What I mean is when the clutch is on ots way out. With the clutch lever pulled in the clutch with not disengage and still pass power to the wheels.

You them adjust it to its max setting on yhe lever, perch and clutch drum. If that still fails then new plates amd springs.

But I mean you would need serious mileage before that happens. By which time you will do a full engine rebuild and why you wouldn't build yhe clutxh at that stage is madness.