If it is a 1998, then it should be an older loom type and CDI, with a much higher Ignition retard around 10,500 Rpm.

But it could have the final CDI type 99' onwards which is restricted to 8,500 Rpm. So there is no way getting round that without a custom CDI or retro fitting a Pre 1994' loom.

But you need so many parts to convert to an older CDI, it is pointless!

Look up Zeeltronic or Ignitech CDI systems, if you want true engine performance.

Well that's not something we were ever likely to guess lol.

Yeah there is, it's on the battery box just below the rear brake master cylinder.

The headlight on the RE is really good too I thought. Even better when I bought some decent Xenon bulbs from Ring

@MIGHTYMAN said in Power valve servo:

@AndyYam it was £65 delivered on the other thread but I won't tell! 😂

Cheers, im that lazy i couldnt be bothered to click back! £65 it is!

@moz4321 said in DT125RE (2005) sparking problem:

@Calum yeah traced it back to the stand switch wires, problem solved cheers mate

Good lad! As said I see it time and time again.

@yammad will do, 2005

@lacey Could be a faulty ignition barrel? Best thing to do is clean the wire contacts up to make sure everything is getting the best possible connection and proceed from there and see how she goes! Make sure no wires are worn or making contact with other wires they shouldn't. I wouldn't say it would be the ignition coil seeing as it does start but when the keys in the off position doesn't sound right to me ..

@Biker_123 oh they are not the standard ones. Fair enough.

Well you have nothing to lose really. Theg don't work as it is. o

seams the lighting and charging coil has 3 wire and a neg.
this means it 3 phase or just ac .
best to just use one coil, lighting coil and forget about charging as I have no battery and don't want one.

@Krenop will this do https://www.catalyst-findit.co.uk/index.php?c=d2f5d910014f2842ada1bbc16c273aae&vat=ex&dest=prod&p=128&pid=44-0931&PHPSESSID=r1jmm443jg5cn6a67i8a24p1q7

Or there's this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/dt125r-stator-/142027363056?hash=item21117d92f0:g:G4kAAOSwfC9XOXf9

The first one looks like it should fit ? It only picks up a difference in magnetism when the raised part of flywheel passes it.

Yeah I can't stand that bolt and nut when you have the stock exhaust system! Don't think that snapped part is going to effect anything, I think it is literally just used as a mark to line up the valve properly.

@Calum Alright, I'll leave them be for now then. I suppose I have bigger problems than messy cables anyway.

@mikef Heat does the opposite mate. In this instance, heat will increase resistance.

However the initial current required to get it moving, after overcoming static friction, will be less, hence why it may speed up.

Definitely the ampage will affect the cranking speed.

Yes mate I appreciate you want to keep the motor mint condition. Kick start won't devalue it, and can easily be reverted back should you wish to sell it.

Personally I like having the option to do both!

@jjdpowell So to confirm then, with the valve pinned open, it has no bottom end (Which is what I'd expect) but it didn't pull hard 6K to red line.

Are you sure this is the correct CDI for your bike?

The round carb slide isn't the best, although it shouldn't be terrible.

It could just be worn electrical system not providing a healthy enough spark. For now you want to leave the carburettor settings alone, but rasther giving the carb a good clean.

The fact that the ignition system worn out leads me to think there is an underlying issue with the electrical system. Unfortunately it's a case of replacing the ignition system one item at a time to determine the source of the problem

The good news is, all these parts can be "Uprated" rather cheaply.

Starting with a decenet iridium NGK Plug. (BRE8S) I believe.

If it's still poor then you could try the HT Lead. NGK do a "Racing" Replacement. I put these things in quotes because this is what they claim, but when I've replaced them I haven't noticed a difference.

IF that's not it then you could try replacing the coil windings. There are some "Uprated" coils on the web.

All of the above should not cost you more than £30 to replace.

If they haven't solved your problem then it's something else. But those parts would need replacing in due course time anyway.

I shelled out just shy of £30 recently for a brand new temp gauge for my TDR as I couldn't find one used that was for showing the temperature rather than just flicking on a light. Are you telling me that they use the exact same temp gauge?!

Alright well i'll grab a few photos of my bikes igntion plug and the diagrams in the haynes manual tomorrow, the wires usually exit by the front of the loom but god knows where they've been taped up to

@Calum Oh yes fitted one , cheers

As said I remember saying the same all those years ago

Good news matey 😄