DT125R FORUM

Forum patched and updated. Fixed some database corruption issues which was having a knock-on effect with emojis so hopefully they're working now.

@HOTSHOT-III Hopefully the issue gets resolved as I don't want to lose the data they're hosting. The important stuff I ought to host here to guarantee it isn't lost.

@HOTSHOT-III Today I redid the foam, used some air filter foam I found and epoxy glued it + new air filter all oiled up. I tested the kickstand switch and it works but the oil light is not working. Will dismantle the tacho tomorrow. I looked at it today, i just remove the two pins underneath and it comes apart?

It sounds to me like the relay. So the starter motor button isn't wired directly to the starter motor as the starter motor requires a lot of current. Instead the wire is connected to the relay and the relay activates the starter. So I'd look in that general vicinity, sounds like it's starting to go faulty, which isn't bad considering it's age and the high amperage that it is subjected to.

@HannesDTX Check all the things @calum said, plus are you sure you've done a FULL carb clean? A lot of people just put them in an ultrasonic cleaner for half an hour and expect to bolt them back on. Doing this doesn't sort the blocked emulsion tube which is a leading cause of DTRs refusing to rev out beyond 6000rpm, precisely the symptoms your bike has. Do a full carb clean including the emulsion tube (the brass tube the main jet screws into). A lot of people (including bike shops) miss this and don't realise it comes out because you have to screw the main jet back in without the brass washer and tap it gently to remove it from the carb body. The space between this and the carb body gets blocked with moisture, dirt etc and blocks more and more holes in the tube (which is how the air atomises the fuel) until it just starts fourstroking and won't rev out one day as this controls the mid-throttle fuelling. Just chucking it in an ultrasonic cleaner usually isn’t enough; you have to actually remove everything from the carb body, physically make sure all the jets and air passages are clear, then reassemble. Make sure the air supply to the emulsion tube is clear as well, it's the small brass tube on the right of the carb body just in front of the carb-to-airbox rubber. You should be able to blow through it, but only just.

It sems to have potential, even if I still have a bad carb, and PV and ignition are just based on butt dyno. Riding with a friend today I realized how slow his bike seemed, he was keeping up fairly well before, but now I felt like I was puttering around for him to keep up I have had a creeping feeling that maybe the reeds were damaged, and not the carb, so I pulled them out and checked them today, but they were fine. (VF4 clone for CR125 with DIY Polini 0.35mm petals). Can't wait to try another carb on it, feels like I have done a million mods and adjustments on that POS carb by now.. I was not so familiar with the PWK's before, but by now I know them in and out BTW, temp was perfect during the ride.

Also don't forget to change bulb in light cluster for an led Kind regards