It was a lucky guess Calum, three wires in that joint, one to regulator rectifier and other to ignition. Could be what caused my reg/rec to fail last year. Thankfully seems to be fine after testing, could have been a disaster thinking about it. Just got to refit and put back together, thanks for advice. To be honest could not tell loom had been opened before or would have had a look last year when I was cleaning the loom up. Should not have to worry about it now.

i have a 5 wire servo for sale £25 posted if its any good to you

Have a look at the sprage clutch, sounds like its slipping.

You will need the rev gauge spindle as well. The re's don't measure rpm. Personally would leave kmh, more JDM.

@irongamer727 Couldn't find it. I did look sorry. It might be on here. Try searching.

@irongamer727 The good ole Haynes manual to the rescue again!!! :thumbsup_tone1:

New new or just another loom? New new you will have no choice but to get it hand made I expect. Otherwise check ebay for breakers.

DTRE Lights are probably going to be the best in terms of brightness. They are so much better than the DTR ones, and the enduro ones are really more for style over substance. Again, you actually don't need lights for a legitimate MOT. But if they are fitted, then they must comply. What we do is simply place a piece of card over the bulbs, and tape up the switches. You can get a day time MOT with that done.

@calum yeah most likely a bridge rectifier, 4 diodes arranged to smooth out the sine wave. Regulator will drop the voltage by also dissipating heat which causes issues of its own

I'll take another look at the side stand switch tomorrow and let you know, its not been on for the past 5 months as far as I'm aware. @Zrako The bike doesn't pull when it goes in to gear at all.

@gareth_iowc Yes, there is a need for aftermarket CDI's always. The YZ is designed for track use and isn't great for road. Retarding the ignition, smoothing the band out will help. YOu could also tailor the band to specific tracks. But as Darty says, you're getting very specialist here. You'd need a dyno to measure the results. But on the tame DTR's, it's very noticeable difference.

@declan clarify should it close back up at max revs

@vtrn_raptor I think mine was £20 and it is £20 worth of deterrent. Ifbthat helps.

Is it not in that pdf i sent out last week? Iirc it's connected to the battery via a heavy duty red (positive) cable which then goes to the starter motor. I think that the black (earth) cable goes from the battery to the solenoid then from there attaches to the engine. There is also a two wire plug that goes to the solenoid which is the lower power switching signal which is connected to the starter button. No pics I'm afraid I'm away on holiday at mo

@dan28 said in 1989 switch gear wiring: Thank you I m running a vapour speedo if it's wired to the blue wire does it only illuminate when the lights are on ? Yes

Norwp, I needed to make sure that I could physically mount it to the radiator aswell. But thanks for your concern

According to the handy diagram I posted for you, the horn lol

@declan said in Pinned pv sucks a**: @scrimsmustang this may be my fault I only disconnected the one wire and I think the valve was actually closed most of the time but either way I didn't like it Yeah, everyone to there own like. I much prefer a pinned powervalve on the old bikes.