@Bananper Get yourself one of these bud, give it a good swish around the bottom end and hopefully you will pick up any loose fragments; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Flexible-Shaft-Bendable-Magnetic-Pick-Up-Tool-With-LED-Light-And-Strong-Magnet/391962870896?epid=15017009964&hash=item5b42cec470:g:L00AAOSwR0JUO~Ya:rk:72:pf:0 Also change your oil 3-4 times within the first month after the engine is rebuilt, just to flush out any remaining debris.

@NINJA Thanks, I have to get the A1 licence now :face_with_tears_of_joy: But the summer will be definitely fun!

Yeah, most use 2% as a rule of thumb I saw a chart on the auto-pump back in the days, as I recall it pumped out 3-4% af WOT, and way less just idling or at low throttle operations. Kinda shows you the beaty of the auto-pump. Some info here: http://www.dansmc.com/2_stroke_oilpump.htm

@Irongamer727 Twas what ever was in Motorworld at the time and cheap. And has always worked fine for me.

@Louis-James said in What clutch for a WR200 conversion?: The ebc heavy duty clutch. Use bandit 400 clutch springs

@jakeyboy See here; http://www.dt125.cz/download/Service_Manual-DT125R.pdf

@declan thanks for clearing that up

@DTR-NSR Yeah true, early clutch covers have different oil pump housings.

@HondaLover Yeah try giving me a photo of the pump, not the cover. I actually don't know how to adjust the early type pumps. The newer types you can just adjust a threaded bar. I had an early type pump just inject way way too much oil. Never figured out how to fix it, just deleted it in the end.

@NINJA Hey, that's looking very tidy!

Might sound silly but you are using a genuine head gasket or an Athena one yes?

@Calum I only posted that link as it was a complete kit, individual parts may be sourced for less cash in total? I just wasn't sure what/if he had any parts already???

Stuff inside the engine cases I always use loctite. Last thing you want is a screw coming loose and rattling around your clutch or something. External stuff I don't bother so much, as that's easy to enough to spot and rectify.

@Bluestoesonnose Piccy's

@Bluestoesonnose So the VHSA Carb was standard on the TZR Belgarda models that ran the 3MBP barrel. Which was a modified 3MB setup. That was my logic behind carb upgrades.

Cheers, I'll get them off to Tony for some port work and squish band work

@Bluestoesonnose If you can you should do some dyno runs with each head on, just to get a clear picture of the difference each head offers and share your findings. As that will give us all a direct comparison and clearly show the benefits each head has to offer.

Always good to have spares!

You'll need the DTRE/TZR Crank cases, TZR/DTRE Crank, fly wheel stator CDI, pick up and loom. Basically, you need a DTRE/TZR Engine.