Right also, don't be so quick to slate Yamaha for using the bolts that they did.
I'm not going into here, you can easily Google that information, but trust me when I say there is a perfectly justifiable reason as to why they used the bolts that they did.
I've always done about 5 heat cycles then a gentle ish ride before riding normal, never had any of my rebuilds seize or fail, obviously you don't wanna be holding it wide open for 2 or 3 rides but don't be afraid to accelerate, with a good forged piston and a few heat cycles you won't cause any harm.
Took it into my college to ask my tutor what he thinks. (he builds race bikes) he said it looks fine and I could file it down very lightly. he also said the scratches on the outside were fine.
the proper cotton braided fuel purpose hoses last a lifetime
using clear ones for fuel is asking for trouble, they go brittle, crack, split, leak and are toss!
you dont need clear ones, there is 2 filters in the petcock and theres a filter in the carb fuel inlet barb too
A general rule of thumb, the higher the compression the greater the power. On a two stroke, a great deal of power is made in the head.
But it's not a case of skimming the head, you need to modify skishband.
Read Graham Bells Two Stroke Performance Tuning for infinitely more detail.
When I had the oil pump rebuilt part of the service was to adjust the oil delivery if required , never bothered as bike standard albeit with a forged piston.
Top up the coolant and let the bike idle with cap off. Be patient, after a couple of minutes it will start to bubble. Then, a couple of minutes later, rev it slightly and watch more bubbles escape. I did this for a good 20 minutes. Note that there will be bubbles left, but once you get most out there should be no cooling problem.