I know this is oldish but I assume you found the sticky at the top of this section.

Anyone got a link to a puller they know works for the DT bearings? I'll definitly give the 160 in the oven a go so cheers for that tip. Alos heard that freezing the bearings over night helps with refitting the new fellas.

@maar70 said in Carb manifold: Ok and how do I go about find is the bikes age? The date of first registration should be on the V5. If you do not have a V5 you can look the details up here, by adding its reg and make; https://www.vehicleenquiry.service.gov.uk/ You can then look for the correct part number on Fowlers webby, just select the correct year first; https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/browser/manufacturer/yamaha/bike/dt125r

Good to hear a simple fix!

It's a locking nut. So provided it is sufficiently tight, it'll be alright. SO you adjist the push rod on the basket. THe nut behind the pressure plate and a final nut on the clutch basket itself locks off.

@AndyYam said in Engine rebuild guide thread?: Yeah true, I just find that a forum rebuild guide with photos and advice often encourages people to dive in compared to a haynes which can sometimes appear a little over complicated and lacking in detailed photos. I followed a youtube video for the strip down and case splitting which really spurred me on. They used a bit of alluminium the lock the gears which really proved useful. to be fair i didnt even check what haynes suggested. Also a guide of what parts to buy and what not to buy might help. Your gearbox bearings post was great for me, but although I know not to use yambits engine oil seals and only Athena or gen head gasket, I might have been tempted. I'll see how I go but watch this space Do it mate! Yeah it's good to fill the forum up!

@Biker_123 I would go wr all the way.

@LJK_hunter You'll need to file the power valve down mate! There's a few guides on YouTube it's really easy to do. Definitely don't use the bike until you've taken care of the power valve as the piston could hit it once it's heated up.

Gt it adjusted not, dont now what went wrong, i think the black part wasnt properly seated on the valve. Next problem is to sort out a rich condition. Bike starts ni problem without choke, and wont rev out. Makes more power if I close the throttle a bit. Midrange is crisp after lowering the needle. Bike has sat for a while, but it seems all pasages in carb is clear, and the choke is working as it should.

@kennymurphy97 it definitely gave it more compression as I could feel the bike vibrated quite a lot more. Was going to get a compression tester for a before and after but forgot all about it. I hadn't ridden the bike for a good week or so before changing the head though so can't accurately say if I felt a difference in power or not, although with more compression usually comes more power. I should be getting my new exhaust soon so I can make the most of it.

Cheers guys, managed to use the torque wrench on all but 2, guess work with the one closest to the front part of the frame and the one next to the thermostat housing

@Calum haha yeah rocking a VM26SS, Yam cutting corners there

Sell the rod kits on Pjme just looked pal and yeah have typed them bearings in is it just them ones and the mains I need

WHat number https://www.yamahamotorcyclespares.co.uk/spares/epcImages/9028/9.jpg

@Calum off topic here don't suppose you know the bearing codes for the 4dl bottom end can't find them anywhere

I have always used this stuff and it hasn't let me down yet Castrol Power 1 2t, its usually £25 a liter but you can always find it cheaper on amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/Castrol-Power-Racing-Engine-Oil/dp/B004I5R35S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466763110&sr=8-1&keywords=power+1+2t

Yeah do it to spec mate. If you're filing them then you need to be using a Diamond file. They can be had fairly cheaply and last a long time