Cheers guys, managed to use the torque wrench on all but 2, guess work with the one closest to the front part of the frame and the one next to the thermostat housing

@Calum haha yeah rocking a VM26SS, Yam cutting corners there

Sell the rod kits on Pjme just looked pal and yeah have typed them bearings in is it just them ones and the mains I need

WHat number https://www.yamahamotorcyclespares.co.uk/spares/epcImages/9028/9.jpg

@Calum off topic here don't suppose you know the bearing codes for the 4dl bottom end can't find them anywhere

I have always used this stuff and it hasn't let me down yet Castrol Power 1 2t, its usually £25 a liter but you can always find it cheaper on amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/Castrol-Power-Racing-Engine-Oil/dp/B004I5R35S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466763110&sr=8-1&keywords=power+1+2t

Yeah do it to spec mate. If you're filing them then you need to be using a Diamond file. They can be had fairly cheaply and last a long time

Its all apart now, plates were cleaned with paraffin and are soaking in the oil i will be using, they have loads of meat left on them so they should be fine, should i put the metal plates and ring in the oil as well? basket and cage are good, however the springs weren't, 2 mm below Haynes serviceable limit, will order a new set soon, when i removed it they were literally glued together, my fault really, should have disassembled and cleaned before putting in but i was just lazy. will keep you all updated

@Calum Just thought that not long after I asked hahaha, will get it adjusted again when I can! Thanks for the help

@Calum Thanks

Assuming you mean gearbox oil, I believe this comes recommended from an old forum post somewhere. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262216520076

How would I go about that then is there any videos or anything

@MIGHTYMAN Some of those hold cables away from harms way. So long as all your cables are routed properly they won't be missed.

Ah sorry, I only know basics when it comes to HTML! I'm VERY glad to say I finally got the clutch sorted and the issue was a combination of the three adjustment points, coupled with the fact that I didn't align the notch (or arrow as it mentions in the Haynes manual) on the clutch pressure plate with the notch on the clutch inner basket. This surprisingly was hard to identify as aligning the notches incorrectly only has a very subtle difference in the way the completed clutch looks. This video might help show the issue I was having. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=esReZcXPxDY Notice that the clutch pressure plate wasn't actually making contact with the friction plates. I first thought I could be missing a friction plate? But soon looked up and found I did indeed have the correct amount. I then kept thinking it was the push rod adjustment being way out, but I was wrong

@Calum I wanted some options in ratios, so that's why I didn't just order a complete kit - did some research and learned that following JT sprockets fit: Front - JTF 564 (for an example, JTF 564.13 is a 13 tooth 520 sprocket) Rear - JTR 853 (for an example, JTR 853.50 is a 50 tooth 520 sprocket) Thought this might be helpful.

Silkolene is a good shout

Yeah a blind bearing set would be cool, but a decent one is big bucks - and it's not an everyday job for me! Cheap tools are great if they work but will probably get someone to do it rather than take the risk. I even tried a rawl anchor on a diy sliding hammer and this just broke one of the collet parts off the bolt rather than move the bearing - this thing is stuck solid! Bloody thing is driving me potty!!!

You won't see the valve move in neutral mate. If it's doing the cleaning cycle then great. If you're finding it's not reving through the rev range then it's probably not turning the correct way. To check this, move the powervalve is its fully open and take the bike for a spin. If it pulls hard to the red line then it's not opening. I would say because the cabkes are the wrong way round. Hope that helps