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  • Suspension Related
    94 747
    94 Topics
    747 Posts
    S
    Hi! What’s the best way of removing the twin short bronze bushes from the rear suspension linkage, also the ones on the swingarm? One gets in the way of the other so I can’t press them out. I’ve tried heat and ‘hammer & screwdriver’ approach, so as to get to the other, but to no joy… Cheers for any help, advice. I couldn’t find sh!t on the search engine…
  • Exhaust Related
    60 550
    60 Topics
    550 Posts
    CalumC
    [image: 020dvoy.jpg]
  • Framework Related
    82 589
    82 Topics
    589 Posts
    CalumC
    Cheers @HOTSHOT-III
  • Wheel Related
    79 726
    79 Topics
    726 Posts
    mbmO8M
    Thanks so much, I managed to figure it out but Now I'm dealing with my own front brake problems haha
  • Electric Related
    249 2k
    249 Topics
    2k Posts
    S
    @Calum I remember you having a Li-ion bonfire but the thing I’m most interested in is the old AC/DC bikes that have three coils on the stator. The ignition coil is horizontal on the top of the stator. The lighting and charging coils are at a V at the bottom of the stator. I don’t claim to understand it but the lighting & charging coils are both numbered the same in the Haynes manual and seem to be connected, unlike the ignition coil which seems to be more isolated. It would seem to have something to do with my investigation into why my headlight dims badly (when I have a FUBAR battery) when I use the brake lights, horn or indicators. I’m hoping that the short life of my battery’s is down to the Reg/Rec being of the oriental OEM variety that’s always been on the bike since I got it. Like the lighting coil being burnt out. It’s the last gremlin on the bike since I got it as a basket case back when the pandemic started. Unfortunately my multi metre chose this time to die, just when I want to check the coils…. The later DC only bikes (anything with more than 3coils) don’t apply to me, unfortunately ….
  • Brake Related
    66 441
    66 Topics
    441 Posts
    CalumC
    Well are you sure it's beyond repair? I mean it has to be pretty bad for that to be the case?
  • Engine Related
    525 5k
    525 Topics
    5k Posts
    R
    For you guys in the UK: https://www.gpxmotouk.com/shop-gpx.html They have the parts to convert the DTR to 230cc, can probably get the complete engine too. If I was thinking of a engine rebuild and/or Athena 170, I would go for this instead, based on what I learned from the Athena 170 kit.
  • Yamaha dt re 125 2006 no power to servo

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    2 Posts
    745 Views
    Louis-DT-WRL
    Have you earthed the powervalve?
  • YPVS Servo Problem

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    4 Posts
    1k Views
    Louis-DT-WRL
    Try swapping a cdi from the other bike to rule out its the cdi
  • Twin rad

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    21 Posts
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    CalumC
    @CYBER-NINJA An ally rad would make a huge difference. The Lanza rad, like the DT200R Rad, has a tiny capacity. I'm sure it ran very hot. But then the DT never had a digital temperature gauge to compare it to. The RE's Simply have a light that goes on when the engine is too hot.
  • Rear coolant bottle

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    6 Posts
    2k Views
    G
    Awesome thanks @Calum
  • Health Check

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    28 Posts
    6k Views
    F
    Most 4 stroke bikes use the same oil for engine and gearbox, so any bike oil will be fine. But car oil is a no no as it has additives in that will make the clutch slip.
  • Seized Engine after rebuild...

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    CalumC
    @Darty I am not convinced a bit of water would have seized tge engine. Any good engine builder liberally coata a freshly built engine with lots of oil. Although now I think about it. If the leak was at the bottom gasket, and was severe. Then haven't you juat hydrolocked the engine? Clearly it neess investigating so until you split the cases you won't truly know the extent of the damage.
  • Need a speedo drive

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    6 Posts
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    tunertomT
    https://www.ajsutton.co.uk/product/yamaha/3XP251900000/gear-unit-assy?uid=0 go here... go to the tab that says fitment, it shows the part number and all the same bikes that use the same speedo as the DT.
  • Chain and sprockets

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    12 Posts
    6k Views
    Uber_BelugaU
    Alright, that's a no to the higher pitch in that case. Doesn't look like I'm going to get any of this stuff before the weekend now. I have a whole heap of new stuff that I'm dying to get on the bike, so the drivetrain stuff is going to have to wait I think. If I can get the bike running this weekend I'll place an order for one of those anodised renthal rear sprockets, a 428 chain and a standard front sprocket. I'll probably come back and ask about chains then. Here's hoping I can get a spark this weekend.
  • In need of speedos for DT125R

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    CalumC
    @CYBER-NINJA I was going to say bet they weren't cheap. They look mint though.
  • 0 Votes
    8 Posts
    3k Views
    CalumC
    @MattD thatis fine it will do that.t
  • Difficult start

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    25 Posts
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    R
    @Uber_Beluga So if you have four wires - one will be an ign. Switched live to the starter switch. One will be the return wire to the starter solenoid. Then the other two will be a feed up from the CDI and a return that either goes back to the CDI to make a circuit or maybe goes to earth as I mentioned before. Just buzz the wires out with your meter to check what they do, but if you can get a good make/break across the switch then that's not you problem.
  • Good mechanic for DT or 2 strokes in general

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    CalumC
    @Uber_Beluga Alright mate, well feel free to PM me any time. And as always, if you fancy doing it yourself, throw up a thread if you need help. Either myself or someone will be around to fire some answers.
  • Renamed, Head Gasket Leak, Solved

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    35 Posts
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    CalumC
    Clutch needs to be balanced properly if it's dismantled. But But noise is generic. Is it metal on metal sound?
  • Best modification and why?

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    CalumC
    @DevonDtr Even I don't do those hours! Still £50 better off in your pockets. But if you are happy to pay then by all means.
  • Bike will start but not Tick over ?

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    CalumC
    @Leftyno1 yeah nice one man. Yes and no. Of course when the clutch wears significantly it will slip. But it will not disengaged before it slips so theres that. What I mean is when the clutch is on ots way out. With the clutch lever pulled in the clutch with not disengage and still pass power to the wheels. You them adjust it to its max setting on yhe lever, perch and clutch drum. If that still fails then new plates amd springs. But I mean you would need serious mileage before that happens. By which time you will do a full engine rebuild and why you wouldn't build yhe clutxh at that stage is madness.