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  • Suspension Related
    98 761
    98 Topics
    761 Posts
    CalumC
    @HOTSHOT-III Does sound interesting, for my long-term Aphrodite project I definitely need to set this up properly. So either I'll be taking it somewhere, or I'll be learning the ins and outs to get it in the right ball-park.
  • Exhaust Related
    64 569
    64 Topics
    569 Posts
    D
    as far as i m aware there are 3 different types of tzr the first model series 2 (RR) an tzr125r sp i have an exhaust with the code 4DL E46 10 20 what model is it intended for
  • Framework Related
    86 606
    86 Topics
    606 Posts
    CalumC
    That's normal. All DTs are like that. [image: IMG-20251011-114625.jpg]
  • Wheel Related
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    81 Topics
    732 Posts
    HOTSHOT IIIH
    @ChuckSR86 I think the easiest way of doing this would be to just obtain a complete DTR or DTRe front end, rear wheel (and possibly swingarm/rear brake assembly) and shock. All these items are fairly common on eBay etc and are easier to swap out than you might think (I once had to replace a DTR swingarm when I'd arranged to go out riding the next day and got a spare one I had fitted in an evening, including the all-important swingarm side clearance). Regarding the shock, I've heard some people say the DTX shock is shorter than the DTR/DTRe, I'm not sure about this but I once bought a few "DTR" shocks from a breaker which included one a few mm shorter than all the others but otherwise identical (maybe @calum or another DTX owner can confirm this?). Running DTR forks mean you'll get to use fork gaiters which massively increase seal life off-road, and the whole operation will be a lot easier than getting into one-off bespoke front end conversions etc. which can be a bit of a nightmare when it comes to stuff like sorting a speedo drive and maintaining forks where the seller might have been a bit economical with the truth regarding what year of bike they came from. Never owned or worked on a DTX so can anyone confirm if this is indeed straightforward?
  • Electric Related
    254 2k
    254 Topics
    2k Posts
    J
    @gary76 i do have the meter but i dont really know how to use it could u help?
  • Brake Related
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    67 Topics
    444 Posts
    G
    @HOTSHOT III Thanks for the reply bud yea all good on that front it’s the long pedal travel I don’t like it’s just me and how I like things
  • Engine Related
    539 5k
    539 Topics
    5k Posts
    CalumC
    No you don't need to open up the engine all the way. It's just a push rod system, if the clutch cam isn't engaging with the push rod then it might be because the push rod has fallen beneath the cam arm so you're not able to position the cam behind the push rod. I've never had this happen to me personally, I don't recall this being an issue, but the design is very simple so there is very little to go wrong. What commonly happens is that the ball bearing inside the engine can get misplaced, which presents itself in a similar manner as you're describing. But this is not possible without dismantling the engine. In essence what you have can be pictured as below: |_._ The | is the cam that you slot from the top of the engine. When the cable is pulled, it twists the cam which acts on the first pushrod denoted here by _. This is space separated with a ball bearing, denoted by . which pushes a further push rod denoted by _. What might be possible is that you've ended up in situation where you've pulled the cam out and now the setup is like: | _._ The cam is now resting on top of the push rod and is no longer engaged with it. So when you pull the lever, nothing happens. I can't remember whether this is even possible, but if it is then you'll notice the cam is sitting a lot higher outside the engine and would be obvious. I am not sure if the pushrods are under load, but if they're not, then leaning the bike over towards the clutch may cause the rods/ball to move allowing the cam to be lowered appropriately. If that doesn't work, then no it's not a full dismantlement. It's just a case of taking the clutch cover off, and taking the clutch pressure plate off to expose the push rods. Extracting them (by leaning the bike over careful not to misplace the ball bearing) and then inserting the cam in first. BUT I REALLY don't think that's what is happening here. It's probably more likely that the clutch just needs adjusting. I'd recommend referring to the Haynes manual for this.
  • Yamaha dt re 125 2006 no power to servo

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    2 Posts
    946 Views
    Louis-DT-WRL
    Have you earthed the powervalve?
  • YPVS Servo Problem

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    Louis-DT-WRL
    Try swapping a cdi from the other bike to rule out its the cdi
  • Twin rad

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    CalumC
    @CYBER-NINJA An ally rad would make a huge difference. The Lanza rad, like the DT200R Rad, has a tiny capacity. I'm sure it ran very hot. But then the DT never had a digital temperature gauge to compare it to. The RE's Simply have a light that goes on when the engine is too hot.
  • Rear coolant bottle

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    G
    Awesome thanks @Calum
  • Health Check

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    F
    Most 4 stroke bikes use the same oil for engine and gearbox, so any bike oil will be fine. But car oil is a no no as it has additives in that will make the clutch slip.
  • Seized Engine after rebuild...

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    CalumC
    @Darty I am not convinced a bit of water would have seized tge engine. Any good engine builder liberally coata a freshly built engine with lots of oil. Although now I think about it. If the leak was at the bottom gasket, and was severe. Then haven't you juat hydrolocked the engine? Clearly it neess investigating so until you split the cases you won't truly know the extent of the damage.
  • Need a speedo drive

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    tunertomT
    https://www.ajsutton.co.uk/product/yamaha/3XP251900000/gear-unit-assy?uid=0 go here... go to the tab that says fitment, it shows the part number and all the same bikes that use the same speedo as the DT.
  • Chain and sprockets

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    Uber_BelugaU
    Alright, that's a no to the higher pitch in that case. Doesn't look like I'm going to get any of this stuff before the weekend now. I have a whole heap of new stuff that I'm dying to get on the bike, so the drivetrain stuff is going to have to wait I think. If I can get the bike running this weekend I'll place an order for one of those anodised renthal rear sprockets, a 428 chain and a standard front sprocket. I'll probably come back and ask about chains then. Here's hoping I can get a spark this weekend.
  • In need of speedos for DT125R

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    CalumC
    @CYBER-NINJA I was going to say bet they weren't cheap. They look mint though.
  • 0 Votes
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    CalumC
    @MattD thatis fine it will do that.t
  • Difficult start

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    R
    @Uber_Beluga So if you have four wires - one will be an ign. Switched live to the starter switch. One will be the return wire to the starter solenoid. Then the other two will be a feed up from the CDI and a return that either goes back to the CDI to make a circuit or maybe goes to earth as I mentioned before. Just buzz the wires out with your meter to check what they do, but if you can get a good make/break across the switch then that's not you problem.
  • Good mechanic for DT or 2 strokes in general

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    CalumC
    @Uber_Beluga Alright mate, well feel free to PM me any time. And as always, if you fancy doing it yourself, throw up a thread if you need help. Either myself or someone will be around to fire some answers.
  • Renamed, Head Gasket Leak, Solved

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    CalumC
    Clutch needs to be balanced properly if it's dismantled. But But noise is generic. Is it metal on metal sound?
  • Best modification and why?

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    CalumC
    @DevonDtr Even I don't do those hours! Still £50 better off in your pockets. But if you are happy to pay then by all means.
  • Bike will start but not Tick over ?

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    CalumC
    @Leftyno1 yeah nice one man. Yes and no. Of course when the clutch wears significantly it will slip. But it will not disengaged before it slips so theres that. What I mean is when the clutch is on ots way out. With the clutch lever pulled in the clutch with not disengage and still pass power to the wheels. You them adjust it to its max setting on yhe lever, perch and clutch drum. If that still fails then new plates amd springs. But I mean you would need serious mileage before that happens. By which time you will do a full engine rebuild and why you wouldn't build yhe clutxh at that stage is madness.