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Technical Zone

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  • Suspension Related
    98 761
    98 Topics
    761 Posts
    CalumC
    @HOTSHOT-III Does sound interesting, for my long-term Aphrodite project I definitely need to set this up properly. So either I'll be taking it somewhere, or I'll be learning the ins and outs to get it in the right ball-park.
  • Exhaust Related
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    64 Topics
    569 Posts
    D
    as far as i m aware there are 3 different types of tzr the first model series 2 (RR) an tzr125r sp i have an exhaust with the code 4DL E46 10 20 what model is it intended for
  • Framework Related
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    86 Topics
    606 Posts
    CalumC
    That's normal. All DTs are like that. [image: IMG-20251011-114625.jpg]
  • Wheel Related
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    81 Topics
    732 Posts
    HOTSHOT IIIH
    @ChuckSR86 I think the easiest way of doing this would be to just obtain a complete DTR or DTRe front end, rear wheel (and possibly swingarm/rear brake assembly) and shock. All these items are fairly common on eBay etc and are easier to swap out than you might think (I once had to replace a DTR swingarm when I'd arranged to go out riding the next day and got a spare one I had fitted in an evening, including the all-important swingarm side clearance). Regarding the shock, I've heard some people say the DTX shock is shorter than the DTR/DTRe, I'm not sure about this but I once bought a few "DTR" shocks from a breaker which included one a few mm shorter than all the others but otherwise identical (maybe @calum or another DTX owner can confirm this?). Running DTR forks mean you'll get to use fork gaiters which massively increase seal life off-road, and the whole operation will be a lot easier than getting into one-off bespoke front end conversions etc. which can be a bit of a nightmare when it comes to stuff like sorting a speedo drive and maintaining forks where the seller might have been a bit economical with the truth regarding what year of bike they came from. Never owned or worked on a DTX so can anyone confirm if this is indeed straightforward?
  • Electric Related
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    254 Topics
    2k Posts
    J
    @gary76 i do have the meter but i dont really know how to use it could u help?
  • Brake Related
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    67 Topics
    444 Posts
    G
    @HOTSHOT III Thanks for the reply bud yea all good on that front it’s the long pedal travel I don’t like it’s just me and how I like things
  • Engine Related
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    539 Topics
    5k Posts
    CalumC
    No you don't need to open up the engine all the way. It's just a push rod system, if the clutch cam isn't engaging with the push rod then it might be because the push rod has fallen beneath the cam arm so you're not able to position the cam behind the push rod. I've never had this happen to me personally, I don't recall this being an issue, but the design is very simple so there is very little to go wrong. What commonly happens is that the ball bearing inside the engine can get misplaced, which presents itself in a similar manner as you're describing. But this is not possible without dismantling the engine. In essence what you have can be pictured as below: |_._ The | is the cam that you slot from the top of the engine. When the cable is pulled, it twists the cam which acts on the first pushrod denoted here by _. This is space separated with a ball bearing, denoted by . which pushes a further push rod denoted by _. What might be possible is that you've ended up in situation where you've pulled the cam out and now the setup is like: | _._ The cam is now resting on top of the push rod and is no longer engaged with it. So when you pull the lever, nothing happens. I can't remember whether this is even possible, but if it is then you'll notice the cam is sitting a lot higher outside the engine and would be obvious. I am not sure if the pushrods are under load, but if they're not, then leaning the bike over towards the clutch may cause the rods/ball to move allowing the cam to be lowered appropriately. If that doesn't work, then no it's not a full dismantlement. It's just a case of taking the clutch cover off, and taking the clutch pressure plate off to expose the push rods. Extracting them (by leaning the bike over careful not to misplace the ball bearing) and then inserting the cam in first. BUT I REALLY don't think that's what is happening here. It's probably more likely that the clutch just needs adjusting. I'd recommend referring to the Haynes manual for this.
  • Rad caps aren’t universal?

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    declanD
    @NINJA not a clue but luckily it’s not a problem
  • Bike vibrating when revved

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    CalumC
    Either the balancer shaft, the engine needs timing. Or the clutch hasn't been balanced. The clutch needs to be reassembled in the correct sequence. See my kickstart conversion guide.
  • What is this plastic part in the carb called?

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    Louis-DT-WRL
    Other name for it is a jet baffle
  • Oil Questions

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    2
    Always used Silkolene Comp 2 which is best oil there is either premix or injector oil.. £38.90 for 4 Litres so £9.72 per Litres https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silkolene-Comp-2-2T-2-Stroke-Motorcycle-Engine-Oil-4-Litres-4L/161276818881?epid=10017008607&hash=item258cd8f5c1:g:NEQAAOSwcwhVP4E0
  • Disconnect oil tank?

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    declanD
    @glynn123 they can fail although it is pretty rare I think they have way more positives I’d never disconnect mine I wish all bikes came with an optional oil fed system
  • Few problems with my dt125re

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    CalumC
    @bradt The system will incur a known internal resistence with itself, known as impedence. This can be measured. It should fall within a tolerable range, as described by the technical specification of the item. Compare your component against this documentation to ensure the item is within tolerance. Chances are, if it is, then the item is not faulty.
  • Power valve issue

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    CalumC
    @thechompster And ignitech
  • Stuck seized pivot bolt

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    FusedF
    On my first DT after several days of trying to remove the bolt, I eventually got it to budge by doing a continuous heat cycle on it, and going at it with a club hammer and drift. When you thinks it got to be hot enough by now...give it another couple of minutes with the blow torch.
  • Ypvs cap broken

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    CalumC
    It'll need ally welding if you have the pieces, otherwise you'll have to get another one.
  • DT125 Front brake caliper bracket dimensions?

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    CalumC
    @glynn123 Only messing mate. Was on here though.
  • Ypvs barrel removal

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    Sgt Robuck 5S
    @olliedtx12s If you need to locate any specific parts click on this and I suggest getting a haynes manual Found on here Amazon
  • What hearing yall running?

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    CalumC
    @finnerz89 One day for sure mate...one day.
  • 5 wires to 3

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    FusedF
    Thanks Calum, I'll shelve that idea for now then..
  • Does a rich pilot effect riding

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    Irongamer727I
    @declan
  • 320mm discs that fit DTX Front hub?

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    771 Views
    CalumC
    Doubtful, but an adapter shouldn't be too hard to make. Just make sure you centralise the caliper over the disc.
  • 2 stroke timing “stator”

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    declanD
    @sgt-robuck-5 ahhh very far then
  • General a/f adjustment

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    declanD
    @finnerz89 yes they are
  • Carb settings help

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    declanD
    @oldman well it looked 40 years old and was visually worn out looked well used if I tried to ride the bike to set off I’d have to redline and ride the clutch then soon as I shift out of 2nd the bike would lose all power and come to a stop then would bog and stutter it seems better with the carb on the garden not tested the street yet
  • 3BN CDI

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    J
    Why not make adaptor/converter loom, between the cdi and the main loom, so you can connect everything up without molesting either part.
  • Snorkel out flat power curve?

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    J
    Removing the snorkel affects the jetting, so jet accordingly. It can also decrese the low end a bit, as theres not much velocity through the carb when you whack the throttle open at low speed. IMO the airbox seems pretty restrictive, so removing the snorkel adds tons of air. You can be both rich and lean, as in lean in the midrange, and rich on the mainjet, or the other way around.